Control line handles

Could you guys post some pics of the handles they are using these days in competition?

LAST EDITED ON May-22-03 AT 05:23 PM (CDT)
 
Best handle I've used

http://wrlee.com/EdomEnterprises/index.html

C/L handles are very personal things. What some or other "top flyer" uses might be just awful for you. So don't necessarily go for what the other guy uses. I know some flyers who can win a contest with a piece of 1 X 4 and a couple wires nailed to it!!

My own favorite handle, developed over a span of 55+ years is home-brew plexiglass 1/2" thick with scallops to fit my fingers. Line spacing or overhang are not adjustable, because I already know what works best for me. I can adjust control sensitivity by moving control horns.

Try here:
http://www.iroquois.free-online.co.uk/handle.htm

>Could you guys post some pics of the handles they are using
>these days in competition?

Some years ago while at the Golden State Stunt Championships at Gilroy, California I was talking about handles with Ted Fancher. He mentioned that if I built a handle with no cable (just direct attachment of the lines with clips to the handle) that the airplane would have a much better "feel" than with a cable handle. I made a handle without cable and he was correct...there is a much more "solid" connected feel to the whole system and I have been using this system ever since. The cables do add some flex to the system that is eliminated with the "no cable" handle.

Does anybody have a picture of Ted's control handle?
Thanks!
Derek Moran

LAST EDITED ON May-22-03 AT 09:51 PM (CDT)
 
>Does anybody have a picture of Ted's control handle?
>Thanks!
>Derek Moran

At your service...

[photo not recovered: 3ecd292235ff8b11.jpg]

This is mine, but it's made from Ted's parts.

>>Does anybody have a picture of Ted's control handle?
>>Thanks!
>>Derek Moran
>
>
> At your service...
>
>[photo not recovered: 3ecd292235ff8b11.jpg]
>
> This is mine, but it's made from Ted's parts.
>
> Brett

How do you adjust the neutral position?

>How do you adjust the neutral position?

You don't. You cut your lines perfectly equal, and your leadouts the same, and have adjustable controls in the plane. Then you acquire a separate handle for each plane that you attempt competition level patterns with, since it's doubtful that any of the planes would be perfectly trimmed using the handle dedicated to a different one.

.
Kiwi

>How do you adjust the neutral position?

The two metal arms have slots and are held in place with bolts. These can be moved in and out slightly (and even jogged narrower and wider on Ted's) to adjust for neutral. But, yes, you want the lines pretty close at the start.

I might add that Ted put an extra set of holes in his behind the first set of holes to give an in between adjustment for line spacing. Then with the ability to jog the arms slightly to a narrower or wider position, it gives an effective infinite adjustment in line spacing.

Although I intend to copy this design because it is light, simple, and (nearly) infinitely adjustable (within a certain range) I will post the picture of the handles that we currently use as soon as Matt gets the pictures to me. (Actually, I have one and Matt has one but he stole mine so he has both at the moment.) Our handle, although heavier and more complicated, also uses the solid attachment points and uses no cables. Ted's design, being lighter, is probably better. It has slightly less overhang, also.

I keep bugging Ted about making handles like this and seling them commercially. I always figured he could have set up a shop in the upper lounge area of the 747 and made these while on his long trips. Sell it as a security issue. Harder for the bad guys to get into the cockpit.

Ah, but now that he has retired, it would seem that he has all the time in the world. (You didn't hear this Shareen,) Ted has all the time in the world, so maybe he could start production of these handles. Of course, there is the issue of needing to build a new Nobler. And there is that next world beater that he never quite got finished. And then there is...

LAST EDITED ON May-23-03 AT 04:21 PM (CDT) by LNeumann (admin)
 
Thanks very much Brett!
I have an old Tatone "U-Control'er" model no. 1275 which has basically the same mechanics.
Derek

I have one of those old Tatone handles that I have owned for over 25 years. I love that old handle and am now using it on my Acromaster. I have added some holes between and behind the existing holes to give more adjustments. I wish they were still available.

I assume you're referring to handles used in CLPA competition. For Combat, people like simpler, sturdier handles that don't have protrusions that can snag on other peoples' lines. The old Hot Rock handles are popular in Fast and Speed Limit. Some people use the bigger Sullivan handle (yellow) and Bob Bearden was selling carboy handles modified to work as CL handles. In F2D, people use East European handles with close spacing (pictures below), and for 1/2-A, many use homemade handles with tiny (less than 2.5") line spacing.

[photo not recovered: Cat.36-8-02HalfASloj.jpg]

Hey Godzilla!

Did you see the "Slow Godzilla"???

LAST EDITED ON May-23-03 AT 00:01 AM (CDT)
 
Handles are a facinating subject. I hope you get lots of photos. If 1,000 guys respond, you will get about 800 different handles. At any meet, I like to go around and look at the planes, the handles and the tool boxes. Amazing variety in tool boxes and handles, but about four basic planes. This is, of course, an exaggeration. But it would be a nice diversion on a rained out contest to supplement the flying with an "ugly handle" contest and "neatest tool" box contest, then go drink beer and holler at wimmin.

Here's mine. I built and trashed several handles before settling on this style. The oak, aluminum, and stainless bolts were picked up at the local Home Depot. I built a pair of them a few years ago and they're still going strong.

LAST EDITED ON May-23-03 AT 06:58 PM (CDT)
 
Here's mine, it is a Jim Lee desinged unit. The handle is molded to fit the fliers hand by covering the palm piece of metal with a microballon/epoxy mixture and holding it while the mix sets. Then carve away any chunks that don't fit and go fly. In flight adjustable, though I never do that while flying, several sets of holes for line spacing. The only addition I'd make to this handle is a loop at the base for the safety thong to hand onto.

I'm not (and never have been nor will be) a "competition" flyer, but I still like the EZ-Just Hot Rock or the Aldrich "Magnum" handles better than anything I have tried. I figure if I could take the Magnum shape and weight and all and attach the lines near direct to the handle less the cable and still make it adjustable for neutral I'd have it down pat (for me).

John

LAST EDITED ON May-23-03 AT 10:39 PM (CDT)
 
I use Dick Byron's handle.
His web site is www.dickbyron.com

I believe he makes a large and small size. I use the large for the full 4 inch spacing.

Here is the modified T Morris handles that I've been using. Very flexible cable so alot of the spring induced "stretchiness" is not a problem. It cant really be the cable stretching making it feel less solid. 65' of .015 vs 6" of .060" .

I am looking forward to trying one at zero wrist bias per Ted's direction though.

Modified T. Morris handle - Question: Why do you want the cable style instead of the direcct connect that is on these hannndles originally? Is there more "feel" with the cable connections, or another reason for the change? The old EZ just & Hot Rock handles, as well as the older handles from Randy Smith had no rigid bar, and seem to me to give more feel of the plane. ED

Well.. we did that so there was an continuous adjustment of the cable length and spacing and bias. I have other handles that have eyes like the Morris handles and they work just fine. I dont really notice a difference in the feel--but I am just an intermediate flier. When trimming, it is nice to be able to adjust the handle completely without alot of disassembly.

I was thinking of a zero wrist bias handle for the new plane and adding eyes to the sliders in the handle--thus eliminating the cable.

After reading about Ted's preference for a zero handle/wrist position, I reset all of my handles to zero, and after adjusting myself to the new feel , I think that I fly a bit better. I broke my wrist some years ago, and now have more "up" movement than "down" in it. In my case, by zeroing my handle, I also zeroed my wrist, which really has helped. Try it, you'll like it!

Here's mine that is "infinitely" adjustable. It was custom made by a gentleman who sometines posts here. I won't mention his name as he might not be looking for extra work.

Eggy:

Beeing not so strong a man I cannot use handles with much overhang ( with these handles and strong wind I just have not enough power to move the wrist quickly for those sharp corners ). So I use as little overhang as possible. With my handle I cannot change distance of lines, but I design my control systems ( in all airplanes ) to fit this size of handle. However I can adjust the lines in flight ( if I have switched to another model with other lines ). Yes I do have a separate set of handle/lines for my better airplanes - but I have some fun models, too!

I never adjust my lines for neutral, by the way. I just make sure all my line sets have lines of exactly equal length, and all airplane controls are neutral when I hold the leadout ends together.

Here are a couple of photos of my handle and line reel. The reels clip on to the separate winder making it easier to store them flat.

That handle of Mr Maikis looks like a work of art to me. I wonder if that tracing/pattern sheet/whatever shown with it is available in print form. Also has that design of handle ever been published?

Charlie

Jerry Eicten kindy gave me a Morris handle, and I think it's the most no-nonsense handel I've sen!

Since they are so cheap you can get a dozen of those, and have one for eache plane. Unless you are a fanatic builder (Tom Morris is) you got yourselfe a lifetime supply of handles...

The feel is great, and once you get the adjustment to your taste you just locktite all screws, and that'sit!

In Christ,