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Diesel engines

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 12 of 12 known posts recovered

Rob · May 30, 2001 01:55 PM

#0 source
I'd dabbled in control line back in the 60's and 70's - Fox and OS Max .35's and Flite Streaks and Ringmasters, and now 25 years later would like to "dabble" again. I've decided on building an Avia'87 profile ship and have been thinking about using diesel power instead of a glow. In particular, a PAW .15 diesel instead of a Norvel BigMig. Any comments from you good folks?

Steve Helmick · May 30, 2001 06:31 PM

#1 source
I'm not familiar with the Avia'87 design you mention...maybe I missed it somewhere. But I like diesels, or glow engines that think they're diesels (like Leonard's Stuka Stunt Magnums). Still have to say that the fuel smells bad, and that anybody who invents a non-stinky diesel fuel will be a hero of many of us. Also, they make more sense to me than the 4 strokes...cheaper, lighter, more torque, better fuel economy, more crash resistance, etc. But talk to Leonard about a Magnum .15 or .25! Your laundry service will be glad you did. I would add, however, that a .40 sized model makes more sense to me. Not much more expense to buy and build, but able to haul longer lines and give you more time to react. If you are really hooked on that design, you could have it scaled up at Kinko's to about 600 square inches. Steve

Steve Fauble · May 30, 2001 06:47 PM

#2 source
The .15 diesel would be a very good choice for the Avia. (I was the translator? of the article) It is a design for a stunt trainer for youth in Poland by a friend of mine and a VERY good stunt flyer. He was something like 13th at the world champs in China, and this is a person that had very little time or money to practice. The originals were powered by a variety of motors including old tee-dee .15's, OS15fp, and even C*x Conquests. I think you will be very pleased with the plane. Please let us know how it goes. I would be happy to forward an E-mail to the designer for you if you would like.

faif2d · May 30, 2001 06:51 PM

#3 source
I could not edit so here is the key, balance the plane for the motor you are using by cutting the nose to the right length as the article mentioned.

I always wondered why I liked to paint with dope, now I can't remember

Jim T. · May 30, 2001 08:56 PM

#4 source
I've flown and competed in Old Time Stunt with diesels quite a bit and think they are great fun. However, they are a different technology from glow, and unless you know about diesels, I'd advise you to go with a glo engine to get back into CL. You want to spend your time flying rather than wondering why your engine won't start, and then won't run right when it does.

I read somewhere that Eric Clutton markets a perfumed diesel fuel that is very pleasant to smell.

Jim

gcb · May 31, 2001 05:31 AM

#5 source
Rob,

Eric Clutton also puts out an excellent book titled "Dr. Diesel's Diary". Wish I had a copy in the 50's when I learned to operate diesels.

The PAW is an excellent engine. Here is the URL of a group of diesel combat flyers. You might enjoy the break-in explanation.
http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/dieselcombat/index.htm

As far as "hard to operate", you also never have to change plugs or worry about how much nitro to use. You just tweak the compression to make an optimum combination.

There are excellent glow engines also in the .15 range, but don't be scared-off because it is a diesel.

George

Rob · May 31, 2001 07:35 AM

#6 source
Thanx folks, for all your good comments and input.

Steve Fauble: I followed your good C/L articles in the model mags for years (decades?), thanx for all the great inspiration! The Avia'87 is such a wonderful design - it's always been one I've wanted to build and since my stoke is up for C/L, now's as good a time as any. As a small ship (40"), I think it'll hold its own in the air, as long as I don't fly in any "serious moving air"! Hope I don't get too dizzy the first few times out, too! Anyhoo, please pass on my thanx to designer/creator Piotr Zawada!

I spoke with Eric Clutton a few days ago and will be getting a single ball bearing PAW .15, a gallon of stinky fuel, and other support goodies ... including his "Doctor Diesel's Diary".

I'll be sandwiching in the building of the Avia along with a few other projects, including a Kloud King 1/2A r/c Texaco ship (I've been flying a 1/2A r/c Brigidier for some time now) ...

[photo not recovered: brig1.jpg]
Okay, okay - her wings ain't level and there's no leadouts, but she is pretty, no? ;=]

I'll add some simple mods to the Avia - adjustable leadouts, adjustable tip weight, adjustable rudder offset. Will supply images when she's done.

Cheers, Rob.


Rob · May 31, 2001 08:01 AM

#7 source
George: Thanx for that fabulous link to the diesel combat site ... Super Stuff! --- Rob.

gcb · May 31, 2001 09:13 PM

#8 source
Rob,

A gallon of diesel fuel is a LOT of diesel fuel. If you have some smaller containers (not plastic), you might consider breaking up the gallon. Ether evaporates from an open container very quickly.
Good luck,
George

Rob · Jun 01, 2001 05:06 AM

#9 source
George - Eric only sells his diesel fuel by the gallon and he sez it'll last forever IF it's in a metal can and you seal off the cap threads with teflon pipe tape. I'll transfer small amounts to a quart can for normal use.

Fred Krueger · Jun 01, 2001 09:35 AM

#10 source
Rob,

I've been using camping fuel bottles for quite some time for storing and field use of diesel fuel. The bottles are deep drawn aluminum with a threaded hard plastic plug (with a finger hole) and o-ring seal. I have several sizes. The largest size(about 1 liter) I use for storage. The smallest (around 300 ml) I take to the field. The bottles I use are made by MSR and sold by large camping supply stores.

Camping fuel bottles require an initial investment, but they last forever, don't rust through and provide an excellent seal without the use of extra sealing material.

Fred

Dzlstunter · Jun 01, 2001 04:21 PM

#11 source
Ditto Fred on the camping fuel bottles. I had some fuel stored in my "go to the field" bottle for six months, and it was as fresh as the day I put it in there. Also another Dr. Diesel trick is to each time run water over the metal gallon can before decanting it. This will recondense any ether. Be sure to wipe off the water before trying to open and pour, though! Don't ask how I found that out. John