Is there life beyond dope?

I've been kinda spoiled these last 15 years or so, in that the r/c built up stick models I scratch built were all totally covered with mylar film and (epoxy resin where the engines go). Getting back to medium/small C/L ships will most likely mean dope and silkspan, and all those stinky fumes! Are there any easier on the lungs alternatives out there these dayze? And if so, would they stand up to stinky diesel fuel? Thanx folks! --- Rob.

No foam wings for diesels, MM

I like using Micafilm for my small diesels.
It's light, tough, keeps the fuel out, and the translucent colors are pretty. Not a lot of variety available though. You can order it from Tower Hobbies.

well yes there is. If your returning to C/L then you remember that all those profile fun fly r/c planes are covered in monokote of ultracote. Diesel fuel doesn't bother those films. I have covered with clear monokote and used spray primer,paint and clear, all Krylon brand. Fuelproof the nose with thinned F/G resin or epoxy and squeege all the excess off. This is obviously not a front row finish but for a nice presentable plane that can be quite reasonable in weight if done with care, it just might be what your looking for.

There are many alternatives for diesels, as virtually anything is fuel proof enough. Gerry Nelson's company (Hillsboro, Oregon) has paints specifically for models that are water based.
They are not cheap, however. DuPont 210S is the water based auto body primer that Nils Norling recommends. Even Brodak dope is said to be less stinky than SIG and dries much faster, also reducing the stinko. Water based polyurethanes are said to work well, and lots of guys are using film with polyurethane or Rustoleum enamel. There are many threads regarding finishing in all the CL Forums, so try the search function at all of them. Steve

I am starting to play around with Lusterkote used per can directions due to problems with Sig dope. Initial results are promising. It's user friendly, gets a cheap shine fast and easy, but suspect it is heavier than dope. Seems pretty tough but have not used any high nitro fuel with it-have no clue what diesel would do and can instructions offer no help re: diesel fuel use.

Thanx for all the great replies, fellas. You've given me a banquet of food for thought on how I'll cover/finish the new diesel bird. Let the games, er, building, begin! --- Rob.

I used lustercoat on a plane,. It is an enamel, it dries fairly fast, and you get reasonable shine. It is heavy so I didn't put clear on it. After a year of use the paint has held up buT it is not shiney anymore. Not unless you wax it. I guess you really can't forget the clearcoats for long lasting shine, no matter what the product

I'm restoring a Super Ringmaster right now. The paint on the fuse is decent, except that the previous owner clear coated it, and now it is cracked all over.

Sanding the clear coat off revealed a decent coat of solid paint, upon which to restore.

So I would be careful with clear coats.

What did he use for the clear coat? I can't imagine dope cracking n the clear coat without everything else cracking, too, so I would imagine that he used something that was brittle and, perhaps, incompatible with the under coats.

Rob --

>Getting back to medium/small C/L
>ships will most likely mean
>dope and silkspan, and all
>those stinky fumes! Are
>there any easier on the
>lungs alternatives out there these
>dayze?

Stinky? Modeling is a more pleasant olfactory hobby than most others. As you probably know, bananas are anti-carcinogenic. Dope smells like bananas. Therefore, dope is anti-carcinogenic. Inhale all you can!