What is the procedure for removing warps introduced with the Polycrylic and Silkspan process? Heat it and bend it out? I am using PC and Silkspan on my Primary Force fuselage and I have introduced a small warp in the verticle stabilizer. I don't think additional PC softens the already dried underlying layers of PC so the old redope and bend trick probably won't work.
PC and warp factor 1?
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 7 of 7 known posts recovered
>What is the procedure for removing warps introduced with the
>Polycrylic and Silkspan process? Heat it and bend it out? I
>am using PC and Silkspan on my Primary Force fuselage and I
>have introduced a small warp in the verticle stabilizer. I
>don't think additional PC softens the already dried
>underlying layers of PC so the old redope and bend trick
>probably won't work.
>Polycrylic and Silkspan process? Heat it and bend it out? I
>am using PC and Silkspan on my Primary Force fuselage and I
>have introduced a small warp in the verticle stabilizer. I
>don't think additional PC softens the already dried
>underlying layers of PC so the old redope and bend trick
>probably won't work.
The way the P-force vertical fin is cut makes not warping it with any mathod a trick. Just put on another coat or coat it with water. Water WILL soften the previous layers IF THAT IS WHAT YOU WANT.
Keep in mind that any material used with silkspan can induce warps because the whole system is SHRINKING. I have never seen PC INDUCE warps that weren't already there. I have seen it relax wood, true.
The City Smasher
>>What is the procedure for removing warps introduced with the
>>Polycrylic and Silkspan process? Heat it and bend it out? I
>>am using PC and Silkspan on my Primary Force fuselage and I
>>have introduced a small warp in the verticle stabilizer. I
>>don't think additional PC softens the already dried
>>underlying layers of PC so the old redope and bend trick
>>probably won't work.
>
>The way the P-force vertical fin is cut makes not warping it
>with any mathod a trick. Just put on another coat or coat
>it with water. Water WILL soften the previous layers IF
>THAT IS WHAT YOU WANT.
>
>Keep in mind that any material used with silkspan can induce
>warps because the whole system is SHRINKING. I have never
>seen PC INDUCE warps that weren't already there. I have
>seen it relax wood, true.
>>Polycrylic and Silkspan process? Heat it and bend it out? I
>>am using PC and Silkspan on my Primary Force fuselage and I
>>have introduced a small warp in the verticle stabilizer. I
>>don't think additional PC softens the already dried
>>underlying layers of PC so the old redope and bend trick
>>probably won't work.
>
>The way the P-force vertical fin is cut makes not warping it
>with any mathod a trick. Just put on another coat or coat
>it with water. Water WILL soften the previous layers IF
>THAT IS WHAT YOU WANT.
>
>Keep in mind that any material used with silkspan can induce
>warps because the whole system is SHRINKING. I have never
>seen PC INDUCE warps that weren't already there. I have
>seen it relax wood, true.
Then, recoat both sides to let it straighten out? Or recoat the concave side to see if that will relax the side under tension?
>Then, recoat both sides to let it straighten out?
Yes. Pressing against a non-stick surface while it dries will guarantee it will be straight. I use teflon sheet.
The City Smasher
>
>>Then, recoat both sides to let it straighten out?
>
>Yes. Pressing against a non-stick surface while it dries
>will guarantee it will be straight. I use teflon sheet.
>>Then, recoat both sides to let it straighten out?
>
>Yes. Pressing against a non-stick surface while it dries
>will guarantee it will be straight. I use teflon sheet.
...uhhh... doesn't PC require air to dry? and wouldn't pressing it against a non-stick surface keep it from exposure to air?
>>
>>>Then, recoat both sides to let it straighten out?
>>
>>Yes. Pressing against a non-stick surface while it dries
>>will guarantee it will be straight. I use teflon sheet.
>
>...uhhh... doesn't PC require air to dry? and wouldn't
>pressing it against a non-stick surface keep it from
>exposure to air?
>>>Then, recoat both sides to let it straighten out?
>>
>>Yes. Pressing against a non-stick surface while it dries
>>will guarantee it will be straight. I use teflon sheet.
>
>...uhhh... doesn't PC require air to dry? and wouldn't
>pressing it against a non-stick surface keep it from
>exposure to air?
Wait until the part tacks off. That will take about an hour. Then place against the falt surface for 24 hours.
The City Smasher