Brodak 40

I received my Brodak 40 wed. Is there anything other than break in that I may need to know about this engine? I plan on using it just for sport flying at this time. Thanks guys, Mike Krizan

Hi, Mike,
I have about 100 flights on my B-40, so FWIW: I did the break-in exactly as noted in the instructions. We use a GlowDevil 300 R/C long plug, with 10% GMA Powermaster fuel. Added one head shim for a smoother 4/2/4, and the engine seems to like the APC 10/5 prop. Drilled five huge 1/4" holes at the end of the muffler. Each thing we did made the engine run better! It now easily pulls a 40 ounce P-Cardinal through the pattern on a little less than 4 ounces of fuel, mostly 4-cycling, with just a little break at the top of the maneuvers. Uniflow metal tank, plus a little Armor-All in the fuel. Very happy with the engine at this point! Good luck with yours!

Finally got mine and got it broken in as per the published instructions. First thing I had to do was replace the NVA. I tried the fix that Brodak's gave in their web page, but it didn't work. I carefully inspected the assembly and found that the threads on the needle were bottoming out at the end of the threads inside the spraybar. To remedy that problem, I very carefully filed the threade down to solid metal (no threads visible) at the tepered end of the needle for 3/32ths of an inch. This allows the needle to screw in enough to seat. You got to be VERY careful and not file across the tapered end or you will RUIN the needle.
I mounted the B-40 on my Novi IV. and using the fuel recommended in the instructions--- Set in a solid four and breaking to a two when the nose was pointed up, And a 10/5 APC (same as I run on my Fox 35 on that ship) I launched at a lirrle over 10K RPM WOW!!!! I have had COMBAT ships that were slower SUB 4sec laps!!! Next Flight 7 1/2 % nitro and 25 % oil slowed it down ro 5.1 sec laps. Set it richer next flight and solid four through the whole flight at 5.3 sec laps. Tried an 11 X 5 Rev up and found that if you set it rich enough to 4-2-4 good, the plug would go cold and the engine would quit. Am going to try other props and fuel at a later date. I might also try a smaller venturi The stock one measures out at .300 on my engine. I am currently running a ST NVA.
Anyone out there got suggestions?? So far, I cannot stunt this plane with the B-40 but I haven't got all the things that I can try worked out yet. I can't tell any vibration difference yet between my Fox 35 and the B-40 on the Novi 4 (inverted engine) By the way, I got one flip starts on the B-40 with the plane sitting on the ground. No flooding problems. So far I think it is a good engine.
Bigiron

Marvin, try the APC 10.5 x 4.5. I have more or less been keeping mental track of what seems to working on the Brodak 40 and have not came to any real conclusions yet. I have heard tell of great runs on anything from APC 11-4's to Revup 10-6's. My set up works great in the Omnium but I use more fuel than what others are saying. Not sure if it is the differences in individual engines, location or just different people preferring different types of runs. My engine uses a full 4 ounces to fly the pattern and everyone else seems to be able to do it with 3 1/2.

My B-40 is box stock, no head shims, stock needle, not one screw was turned. Running an APC 10.5 - 4.5 on Powermaster 5-22. Getting a real nice 4-2-4 at 5.2 second laps on 58 foot lines. Because the Omnium was built around an Oriental wing, for reference just call it an Oriental.

Can't recall exactly where I read it but someone (maybe the Dirt) recently said the above APC either wasn't enough load or was to much load for the B-40 or something like that. Go figure, it works great on my engine.

Marvin,
Last wednesday I brought a bunch of props to try with B40. Here's what I've tried:
TF 10x6( fast! )
TF 10x5( same as 10x6 )
Revup 10x6EW( mad fast!!!!)
TF 11x4( fast but managable )

The last prop proved to be nicest. It pulled the plane very consistently. It was also the only prop I could get 5 second laps with. Other props were anywhere between 4 and 4.5 second laps.

The testing was done on a 42oz Banshee with 60foot lines. In order to get 5 second laps I had to run B40 extremely rich with R.Oliver's hot plugs. I'd like to get the RPM's up to where it does 4-2-4 as I really like the sound of it . I plan to start with 70ft lines and cut them down until I get proper lap times.

Steven Yampolsky

NOTE: I'm a beginner so I may have missed something.

Steven, when it comes to a Brodak 40, and stunt in general, I too am a beginner. But when it comes to Fox 35 stunts, I can make them stand up and talk to you. Not only stand up, but at attention!!

Bigiron

Bigiron,

You're not getting my foxes!

Don't want yours. I already got 84 of them. Don't need any more. Also. I do not do rework for others, but do my own mods. So don't worry, I promise not to try to steal yours.
Bigiron

84!?
Are they all 35s?

Most of them. A few 29s are in there . Got a total of over 187 total all engines. Coxes, Johnsons K&Bs Vecos etc. Just gotta love them Fox 35s. Got a bid on one on E-Bay right now.
Bigiron

Wow!
How long did it take to get a collection like that together? How do you preserve the motors? Do you have a display for them?

I am not a collector as you would, under normal definitions, call a collector. I am more of an accumulator. I accumulate stuff that many would consider unfixable, and try to restore it to servicable condition. I have flown models starting in 1936 (rubber power) to the present. First gas engine 1939 First Fox (a 29) 1950. I have always liked Fox engines and for a spell, would go to the factory and pick up my engines. Duke would take us through the plant and show us all the new stuff he was working with, and we would then pick up our engines and parts there . Thus saving on packaging and distribution costs. Most of my engines have been accumulated through the years with no idea in mind to establish a "set, or collection" but In the 35 stunt size, I do have one of each different production run of different mods, with the exception of the first sand cast four bolt head/two bolt backplate issue.
I am (at my wifes insistence, going to mount the set of Fox35s on a display for showing. I am also working toward setting a display established of engines used for combat. ie combat specials and those other engines that were modified for extensive combat use such as the Super Tigre G21-35 and early Greenhead Torps.
For long term storage I wash the engines out VERY thouroughly with alcohol (methanol) or Acetone to get ALL the castor and synthetic oil out. Then I let it dry and then oil it down WELL with a mix of half and half Rislone and transmission fluid. I get enough in the engine to run around inside and get into ALL the little nooks and crannies. When it is thoroughly coated inside and I am satisfied that all the surfaces are coated, I pour as much as I can out through the open plug hole, exhaust port, and venturi. Then I put the plug back in and wrap the engine in an old cotton heavy work sock and put it in a box. I have some that have been stored that way for five/six years and show no rust nor binding.
Short term storage--- up to a couple of years-- I make sure all the volitiles of regular fuel are burned out of the engine and put quite a few drops (about a teaspoon full) of the oil mix in the venturi and exhaust port and flip the engine forward several times and also backwards with the plug in, then take the plug out and chuck the shaft up in a reversable drill and spin the engine in the direction of regular rotation for 15 to 20 seconds, then put the plug back in and wrap the engine as above.
A little test you can try. Take a small container such as a cup and pour some fuel in it. now take a couple of drops of ANY of the popular afterrun oils and put them in the fuel. See what they do. They bead up and do not mix with the alcohol nor castor. Shake the mix up and after a while it will seperate again. That is why you want the fuel and oils out of the engine as well as possible before putting the after run oil in. For short term (up ro a month or two, I don,t do anything. I figure that the castor and/or synthetic will protect well enough.
Another thing--- Old hardened out castor oil often looks like rust. Before I would say an engine was "rusted inside" I would soak it in Methanol or acetone and clean it thoroughly or run it through the antifreeze and crockpot cleaning and dry it off well and THEN check for rust.

After ANY cleaning or washing you should thoroughly dry the engine/parts and reoil them. If you are going to put the engine into use immediately after such cleaning, I would use good clean fuel to do the oiling during assembly.
Now watch some EXPERT try to take me apart on this.
Bigiron

PS If you would like, you can call me at (316)838-8494

Marvin Denny aka Bigiron

Thank you Marvin for the info! You probably saw in my other posts that I have not given up on my Fox and will get it to run right. There is something endearing about those Foxes....

I do have a couple of 25's that I would like to store until the next season though.

A Brodak 40 won beginner at the nats this week.
A lite, straight, nobler.
engine stock,except for a little clean up by Marshall
Busby.
Stock BY&o 10-5
Powermaster 10%
Engine starts easily, sets easily, is repeatable.
(how do I know?)
I spent a Sunday afternoon watching, and helping out a little.
Can,t speak for the rest of the Brodaks, but this is a good one.

Mike - while judging at the Brodak event, one of the absolute best runs I saw was Carl Lovins classic bird. He had a stock Brodak .40 and it sounded great, as well as pulling the plane with authority. You might want to contact Carl to see what fuel, props, plug, etc he uses.
Bob

Prop on both Carl Lovins B.40 and Dave Hienzmans B.40 (He won Advanced P.A.)is a Werwage/Phelps Classic carbon fiber undercambered prop.Best thing you can do for a B.40. You see them on everything including Aero Tiger .36,ROJett.40 Magnum .36 etc. contact Gerry Phelps and get in line.----Gary T.

Hi Gary, Correction, Dave won Classic Adv. Clayton Barry won PAMPA Advanced. Phil Spillman

I don't know, but perhaps you should send it to me for testing. Then I will have two of the beauties.

Guys,

Send them to me for flight testing before you send them to Ty for the impact testing !

Sorry Ty, I just couldn't resist it any longer