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Triumph profile

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 8 of 8 known posts recovered

matchlessaero · Jul 10, 2003 11:35 PM

#0 source
LAST EDITED ON Jul-10-03 AT 11:38 PM (CDT)
 
Over the 4th holiday, I had the opportunity to cut the fuse doublers, engine rails, and glue it all together on my Triumph. I used Probond to put the doublers on and so far it seems to be more than strong enough (I have been using Probond for about 1 1/2 yrs now on other areas with no problems so far...)

Now that it is finally 'in the wood' and not just on a CAD screen it feels like things are really happening....

I now have boatloads of sanding/shaping/smoothing to do.

Seeing it as a tangible thing is also revealing some potential issues with the design, but what the heck, stuff happens... I hope to cut wing ribs and the horizontal over the next two weekends. Hopefully I will remember to take some pics as it frames up from 2d to 3d.

Tim McTigue · Jul 11, 2003 06:28 AM

#1 source
Wow, that looks nice. Forgive a newbie question - do you anticipate balance problems? It looks like it'd want to be nose-heavy... (but that could just be me).

Tim

Look! Up in the sky! It's, it's... oh wait - it's gone. Wait! Look! Up in the sky! It's...

Larry Cunningham · Jul 11, 2003 10:28 AM

#2 source
Is your wing chord length about 10 inches? If so, from the photo it looks like your nose moment is even longer than that. Most profile nose moments are around 9 inches, even for the larger ships.

Cool styling on the profile, I hope you aren't too nose heavy.

[photo not recovered: 3e69bb3870f12ad5.jpg]

"Never go to bed mad. Stay up and fight." -Phyllis Diller

matchlessaero · Jul 11, 2003 03:41 PM

#3 source
Yes, the wing chord is about 10" without the flaps, (12" with flaps at the root), and yes, I do think it might come out a bit nose heavy. On the screen it looks 'just right', but once cut out, it does look a tad bit long in the nose... (maybe I shoulda named it Cyrano).
I plan to get the wing and tail built and trial mounted, and then I will do some more balancing. The way I constructed the nose, I have 1/2" movement backwards of the engine possible with only minimal cutting. With a little more work, I can move it back as much as I want.

Larry, thanks for putting the profile articles up on the Pampa website. Before beginning the design/construction of this plane, I printed all of the articles, bound them and then read them over and over... That is really great stuff.

Larry Cunningham · Jul 11, 2003 04:19 PM

#4 source
...

>Larry, thanks for putting the profile articles up on the
>Pampa website. Before beginning the design/construction of
>this plane, I printed all of the articles, bound them and
>then read them over and over... That is really great stuff.

Jeremy, I'm flattered. (Do I dare tell you that quite a bit of that advice is obsolete? <oops>)

[photo not recovered: 3e69bb3870f12ad5.jpg]

"The pessimist complains about the wind;
the optimist expects it to change;
the realist adjusts the sails." -William Arthur Ward

matchlessaero · Jul 11, 2003 04:43 PM

#5 source
Obsolete or not, its the most clearly presented info I have found...

As I have mentioned before, this is the most complex CL project I have undertaken (much more so than my half-a sheetwood cl planes). Though I regularly design and build very complex composite RC projects, design in CAD, and even make some of my own engine parts (tuned pipes, headers, venturis etc), many full size stunter CL concepts are pretty foreign to me. Of course, I could not go the 'easy' way and build a well engineered kit to figure this stuff out....(that would have been the smart thing to do...) Your article helped out greatly to make clear what is hidden 'under the skin/sheeting' of all the beauties I have seen at the circle and in the mags.

Thanks again for making that stuff available.

Currell · Jul 12, 2003 05:29 PM

#6 source
If you want to shorten the nose moment, you always can, of course, glue the chord plug back in the fuse again, and recut.

Currell

Nils · Jul 12, 2003 09:24 PM

#7 source
>If you want to shorten the nose moment, you always can, of
>course, glue the chord plug back in the fuse again, and
>recut.
>
>Currell

Very good advice, imo. Cool looking fuse shape, just move the wing forward a tad

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