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Building table

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 12 of 12 known posts recovered

Bill Sawyer · Jul 12, 2003 11:28 PM

#0 source
I seem to remember sometime back a discussion about what we build on and a lot of ideas were given for surfaces to work on. I would like to ask the question as to what height you prefer in a work table? Would you prefer a tall table set up to stand at and also be able to use a stool/chair? What about a short one to always use a chair? What is your choice and why? What would you equip it with? I am getting ready to build one and could use some suggestions

Randy · Jul 13, 2003 12:27 AM

#1 source
Bill,

I use a table you can stand at. I also recently got some rubber mats from MSC. These are pretty cushy. I like to stand up because my main building table is an island (in the middle of the floor) and it allows me to walk around the thing and get to the various parts of the plane more easily. I also use a stool occasionally. It's just easier to stand, I guess. All my benches are stand at height. A tool island with DP, Mill, grinder and bandsaw. Also benches around the perimeter where various project go on. Even my drafting table is mounted to the wall and is at standing height.

I do have a chair in front of the TV I have out in the shop.

Randy Powell

tools · Jul 13, 2003 08:43 AM

#2 source
I prefer them the height of a table saw (whatever that is, about the same as a standard kitchen base cab). I usually stand and work, but that height works well for a stool as well. I also have a reasonably large freestanding office desk I work at often sitting in an office chair.

I agree with the value of a island, my model building area has countertop along a wall with a peninsula sticking out, a reasonable compromise.

I try to minimize the stuff sitting on the top along the back by putting shelves all over the wall over the bench top. It seems flat space gets eaten so quickly by stacking tools, jars of stuff, etc along the back edge.

It seems tons of people have table saws (even if they use them once a year). I have a top I built to put on it to use it as a worksurface (covers both the table saw and adjoining homebuilt router table which is the same height). Then when the occassion arises, I can lift the top and everything on it off at once, set it aside, use the saw and put it back. Easy way to get an island work top. Also very flat.

Tools

Tools

tools · Jul 13, 2003 08:44 AM

#3 source
You may try building your tops first and setting them on saw horses, easy to vary the height till you find what you like.

Tools

Bill Sawyer · Jul 13, 2003 10:58 AM

#4 source
Sounds like good suggestions. I plan to have a walk a round table separate from my table saw in the new shop. I have been using it for just about everything and it is lower than I like for cutting so I plan to raise it a couple of inches. Yes I know even with the extra space it probably will get covered up with junk. Nearby wall shelves and cabinets should help that. It is amazing how fast space disappears when you bring in things.
I would think a 4 X 6 is large enough to build on. I am considering a hanging rack for balsa storage. I built one for someone that we though was huge until it got screwed to the wall. Possibly having it under the building table would be better. Decisions !

Woodworker's Supply has the thick mats in 27 X 96 for $69.95 - less for the normal thickness.

GravityWell · Jul 13, 2003 11:08 AM

#5 source
Hi Bill. I find it best to stand for some of the work and sit for some. Its best to stand when building things that are jigged or pinned to the board. That way you can lean over them to work on the back portion. For myself (I'm 5'7") I find that a 36" table height works best. Thats the same height as a standard kitchen counter. I always have a bar stool though, so I can sit as well. I also generally have a couple of mini building boards (1'x4') made of 3/4" MDF board and covered with 1/2 a cieling tile. That way I can be building three or more peices of the ship at the same time. If you decide to build sit-down board then build it at 30"; thats the same as a standard kitchen table height. My table is also in the middle of the floor, that way you can work around the entire thing and maximize your building time by working on more than one peice at a time. As far as what tools and such, well I have a an 8" band saw, 10" drill press, sanding station (disc and belt sander), 16" scroll saw, 10" table saw and a variety of power hand tools. Bench top tools are great because they can be put into cabinets and such and only brought out when you need them. Do I need all the tools I have? No....but the wife thinks I do and thats all that matters to me! Good luck with you building project. Snap a pic and show us the result if you can.

“I HAVE NEVER CRASHED BUT I HAVE PROVEN THE THEORY THAT GRAVITY SUCKS!”
Glenn Reach

Ty Marcucci · Jul 13, 2003 01:49 PM

#6 source
I use an island that is 72" by 48" and 50" tall. That gives me room to walk around and get to all the parts, stand or sit using a tall stool. Not much is done by sitting. It seems I'm always going to a saw or drill or sander when I scratch build or even kit build a plane.

The 50" height works out best overall. The 72" by 48" lets me build larger PA planes with no overhang from the work area. I have 5/8" tempered glass on the table tops and use 3/4" by 48" by 60" balsa building board on top of that.

I'm gettin better.

Jake · Jul 13, 2003 03:47 PM

#7 source
LAST EDITED ON Jul-13-03 AT 03:49 PM (CDT)
 
Where I can stand and work. I don't like sitting at a "work table", I have to lean over, plus sitting too long in one spot- then I need a hand to get up. I stay on my feet and moving as much as I can... Keeps my attention focused and hurts less...
Just above waist high- thick glass base if it is a building board.


John

Dana Wall · Jul 14, 2003 02:41 AM

#8 source
I have found that the distance from the floor to your elbow minus a few inches (1-3") is very good (can be changed later by adjusting chair). If standing the minus around 3" as you will probably have a tool in your hand that will raise your hands. I find it is more comfortable and less tiring on my joints to have the table/tool height so that my arm is parallel to the table if not my hand slightly lower than my elbow. My keyboard and computer chair is such that my hands type at a height an inch or two above my elbows and I can notices the difference on the strain it puts on wrist and fingers.

Dana Wall · Jul 14, 2003 02:45 AM

#9 source
Forgot to add that if the table is set for standing you could get a bar stool or drafting chair that is set for high tables.

gcb · Jul 14, 2003 06:56 AM

#10 source
Did you ever notice that CLUTTER expands to the size of your shop?

And...if you put it away, you need to use it again?

I too have a (2'x4') building board that sits on my table saw. The building board has cork on one side in case I have to pin things for assembly, the other side is just sealed with poly urethane so I can use it as-is for assembly or place my cutting mat on it.
My other bench has a glass surface for flatness. It is at standing height.
I have a bar-type stool so I can sit a minute and plan my next steps when building from scratch.

George

ucflier · Jul 14, 2003 09:36 PM

#11 source
LAST EDITED ON Jul-15-03 AT 07:12 PM (CDT)
 
Bill:

I attached pictures (edited today to improve quality) of my tables. They were Ranger drafting tables in a former life. I work for an engineering reseller and we bought these in a bunch of old drafting room furniture. Now that we are selling everyone AutoCAD and computers, the old boards are becoming surplus. These were so sad that my boss gave them to me, and if you scrounge around you can probably get one free/cheap, too! I sanded the nicks/rust as much as possible, then primed/painted them with Rustoleum products. The tops are hollow core doors with 1"x 2" "fences" on three sides to hold the building surface - one is 3/8" glass, the other is 5/8" sheetrock. Each has a pegboard installed on the back side with 2" #10 sheet metal screws and nylon spacers (to hold it away from the legs and make as many holes as possible useable)(these are found at Lowe's or Home Depot in the "Specialty Hardware" boxes). I installed 24" wide by 3/4" plywood shelves on the footrests underneath the tables to provide more storage space and stiffen the structure. I also bolted 5/8" MDF on top before putting the doors on - to stiffen the structure (this is optional-probably would be ok without it). Each one has a power strip on the front right above the drawer and under the edge of the building surface. The sheetrock table is 70" x 30" and 38" off the floor; the glass table is 80" x 30" and also 38" high. Total cost for the pair was about $200, with most of that being the sheet of glass. (I bought new doors - couldn't find the damaged variety). You will note that they are faced opposite directions, and each one has a stool on the front, and padded mats on the rear. You can sit or stand, and get all the way around them.