Building table
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 12 of 12 known posts recovered
I use a table you can stand at. I also recently got some rubber mats from MSC. These are pretty cushy. I like to stand up because my main building table is an island (in the middle of the floor) and it allows me to walk around the thing and get to the various parts of the plane more easily. I also use a stool occasionally. It's just easier to stand, I guess. All my benches are stand at height. A tool island with DP, Mill, grinder and bandsaw. Also benches around the perimeter where various project go on. Even my drafting table is mounted to the wall and is at standing height.
I do have a chair in front of the TV I have out in the shop. 
Randy Powell
I agree with the value of a island, my model building area has countertop along a wall with a peninsula sticking out, a reasonable compromise.
I try to minimize the stuff sitting on the top along the back by putting shelves all over the wall over the bench top. It seems flat space gets eaten so quickly by stacking tools, jars of stuff, etc along the back edge.
It seems tons of people have table saws (even if they use them once a year). I have a top I built to put on it to use it as a worksurface (covers both the table saw and adjoining homebuilt router table which is the same height). Then when the occassion arises, I can lift the top and everything on it off at once, set it aside, use the saw and put it back. Easy way to get an island work top. Also very flat.
Tools
Tools
Tools
Bill Sawyer · Jul 13, 2003 10:58 AM
#4 sourceI would think a 4 X 6 is large enough to build on. I am considering a hanging rack for balsa storage. I built one for someone that we though was huge until it got screwed to the wall. Possibly having it under the building table would be better. Decisions !
Woodworker's Supply has the thick mats in 27 X 96 for $69.95 - less for the normal thickness.
GravityWell · Jul 13, 2003 11:08 AM
#5 source
Good luck with you building project. Snap a pic and show us the result if you can.“I HAVE NEVER CRASHED BUT I HAVE PROVEN THE THEORY THAT GRAVITY SUCKS!”
Glenn Reach
Ty Marcucci · Jul 13, 2003 01:49 PM
#6 sourceThe 50" height works out best overall. The 72" by 48" lets me build larger PA planes with no overhang from the work area. I have 5/8" tempered glass on the table tops and use 3/4" by 48" by 60" balsa building board on top of that.
I'm gettin better.
Where I can stand and work. I don't like sitting at a "work table", I have to lean over, plus sitting too long in one spot- then I need a hand to get up. I stay on my feet and moving as much as I can... Keeps my attention focused and hurts less...
Just above waist high- thick glass base if it is a building board.
John
And...if you put it away, you need to use it again?
I too have a (2'x4') building board that sits on my table saw. The building board has cork on one side in case I have to pin things for assembly, the other side is just sealed with poly urethane so I can use it as-is for assembly or place my cutting mat on it.
My other bench has a glass surface for flatness. It is at standing height.
I have a bar-type stool so I can sit a minute and plan my next steps when building from scratch.
George
Bill:
I attached pictures (edited today to improve quality) of my tables. They were Ranger drafting tables in a former life. I work for an engineering reseller and we bought these in a bunch of old drafting room furniture. Now that we are selling everyone AutoCAD and computers, the old boards are becoming surplus. These were so sad that my boss gave them to me, and if you scrounge around you can probably get one free/cheap, too! I sanded the nicks/rust as much as possible, then primed/painted them with Rustoleum products. The tops are hollow core doors with 1"x 2" "fences" on three sides to hold the building surface - one is 3/8" glass, the other is 5/8" sheetrock. Each has a pegboard installed on the back side with 2" #10 sheet metal screws and nylon spacers (to hold it away from the legs and make as many holes as possible useable)(these are found at Lowe's or Home Depot in the "Specialty Hardware" boxes). I installed 24" wide by 3/4" plywood shelves on the footrests underneath the tables to provide more storage space and stiffen the structure. I also bolted 5/8" MDF on top before putting the doors on - to stiffen the structure (this is optional-probably would be ok without it). Each one has a power strip on the front right above the drawer and under the edge of the building surface. The sheetrock table is 70" x 30" and 38" off the floor; the glass table is 80" x 30" and also 38" high. Total cost for the pair was about $200, with most of that being the sheet of glass. (I bought new doors - couldn't find the damaged variety). You will note that they are faced opposite directions, and each one has a stool on the front, and padded mats on the rear. You can sit or stand, and get all the way around them.