Help...Rustoleum Paint job Repairs

Hey Guys,

Been following things here and posting once in a while when I felt like I had something to input. It was here that I read about using Rustoleum for a final finish. Well, I tried it on my latest sport flyer, a slightly modified Flite Streak. Used maroon on satin white. Put two coats of Super Coat plus two coats of Lite coat and a couple coats of sanding sealer as prep. It really came out pretty nice, not as slick as a dope finish, but quick and really not too bad. On the negative, the model weighed about 12 ounces prior to the Rustoleum. Weighed over 14 ounces after one coat. Kind of heavy...Okay...a lot heavy...but it did only take one coat.

The question is: How do you make repairs with this kind of finish. Had a little scuffle with the old pavement the other day. No big deal, but it put a couple of small holes, one about an inch in diameter in the under side of the wing covering. Help...how do you repair the enamel finish?? I know dope will attack the enamel and make a real mess of things; so I can't use the usual repair method. Can someone enlighten me how to make repairs to this kind of finish? Many thanks for any suggestions.

>kind of
>finish. Had a little scuffle with the old pavement the
>other day. No big deal, but it put a couple of small holes,
>one about an inch in diameter in the under side of the wing
>covering. Help...how do you repair the enamel finish?? I
>know dope will attack the enamel and make a real mess of
>things; so I can't use the usual repair method. Can someone
>enlighten me how to make repairs to this kind of finish?
>Many thanks for any suggestions.

John;

Years ago I used Dupont Dulux car enamel for some model finishes. Fuel proof up to 15%. Boy, it was cheap back then.

Repairs - Instead of using dope, I used thinned Titebond or some alephatic (sp?) resin glue. I would fist clean, then remove the damaged area, scuff a little bit around the place for the new patch, then tear (not cut) the silkspan to approximate shape. I brushed the thinned Titebond all over the patch at applied it. Once it dried, it tightered up pretty nicely. I would then sand a little and try to feather the patch in as much as possible. I would then follow with a couple more coats of thinned Titebond until the patch grain was filled, then apply some enamel for color. Wasn't perfect, but it worked fairly well and blended in nicely.

I am sure there are other ways to "skin the cat." This was how I did it and would probably do it again.

I would use Crystal clear tape for a quick repair. You can fly it this week end. Repair it right in the off season.

Thanks, Bob. I suppose Sig Bond (aliphatic) would work, too. I may have to try that. Also, Patrick, already got clear mystic tape on it. Plan to go flying this week end. I am in TOPCLASS (Topeka Control Line Association) and spoke to Jim Lee this evening after I made the post. He suggested that I try to get a hold of Allen Brickhouse. He said Allen has a lot of experience with this kind of finish. I'll let you all know. Thanks very much.