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Sig Magnum and Saito 56

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 13 of 13 known posts recovered

devcon9 · Jul 21, 2003 04:36 PM

#0 source
Anyone built a Magnum with a Saito 56..?
Any info please..?
Planning as next project.

Good flying
Tony (aka devcon9)

godzilla · Jul 21, 2003 05:01 PM

#1 source
>Anyone built a Magnum with a Saito 56..?
>Any info please..?
>Planning as next project.
>
>
>
>Good flying
>Tony (aka devcon9)

No, but I think that might be a very good combo. I would take 1 inch off the nose and don't change anything else. Should balance very close to the plans with a 9" nose. A 9" nose is also about as short as you can possibly go without recessing the wing front and still fit everything. Even though notching the wing is very easy.

What would really be cool is simply moving the wing hole forward 1 inch. That would be even better.

I just bought a Saito 56 to revisit the Saito 72's little brother. I would definately recomend the Jim Aaron 3 blade or my version of the 14" 2 blade flat back both from Brian Eather . Both should be run with the .265" venturi and the UHP manifold. Clunk tank, no uniflow, YS 20/20, blab blah blah....

The City Smasher

aaronl · Jul 21, 2003 07:10 PM

#2 source

I think Godzilla has a good idea as far as moving the wing up 1" in the nose, it seems a lot of people are making the tail moment a little longe now. I would not be the one to ask but you may have to relieve the motor mounts and use a plastic tank since the nose is shortened. I know that with the PAs if you use a plastic tank the mounts have to be relieved.

Also I know Randy Smith and I think Tom Dixon had a re-worked version of the magnum with a little more side area in the back that was supposed to make it fly better, the one we have works well with a Tiger51 so I bet the Saito would be ganbusters.

aaron

Mikey · Jul 22, 2003 07:47 AM

#3 source
Tony,
The Saito .56 in Magnum should be a great combo. Back in 80’s I flew the blue Magnum (the one on the box label) with a Saito .45 Special (before the Golden Knight version) with the stock nose moment. It balanced as per the plans and the instruction book. The .45 Special flew great in good air but lacked the punch needed in the wind. The power of today’s Saito 4-strokes is far superior to the previous models that were availed back then. If you are building the Magnum from a kit, there are a few things that you can do to improve flight performance. If you like I can pass these on to you.

Mike Pratt (Mikey)

Mike Pratt

devcon9 · Jul 22, 2003 08:28 AM

#4 source
>Tony,
>The Saito .56 in Magnum should be a great combo. Back in
>80’s I flew the blue Magnum (the one on the box label) with
>a Saito .45 Special (before the Golden Knight version) with
>the stock nose moment. It balanced as per the plans and the
>instruction book. The .45 Special flew great in good air
>but lacked the punch needed in the wind. The power of
>today’s Saito 4-strokes is far superior to the previous
>models that were availed back then. If you are building the
>Magnum from a kit, there are a few things that you can do to
>improve flight performance. If you like I can pass these on
>to you.
>
>Mike Pratt (Mikey)

Hi Mike
I am building this Magnum from the kit, I would appreciate any idea's for improvements you have.
Kind regards

Good flying
Tony

devcon9 · Jul 22, 2003 08:35 AM

#5 source
Hi godzilla and aaronl.
Thanks for your info, I like the idea of moving the wing forward, that will be a good topic of discussion tonight at the club meet..!

Kind regards


Good flying
Tony

devcon9 · Jul 22, 2003 08:47 AM

Magnums#6 source
While on the subject of Magnums,
This is my modified Magnum, powered by a DoubleStar-Lite .60


Good flying
Tony

Bob Reeves · Jul 22, 2003 09:00 AM

#7 source
Yes Mike tell us what mods would be good..

I also have a Magnum kit and a Saito 56.. Sounds like the two would go together pretty well...

CMFoley · Jul 22, 2003 09:15 AM

#8 source
Mike,

I'm also building a Magnum, planning on using an ASP 61 4c. Any mods would be appreciated.

Also still waiting patiently for the P-Force I ordered.

Thanks!
Mike

Mikey · Jul 24, 2003 09:00 AM

#9 source
Magnum Mods.

(1)Wing: Weigh each piece of the wing sheeting and make sure that it at least 6 to 7 pound density wood. Add a ¼” foam spar in the middle of the rear lighting hole in each of the foam wing panels (this well stiffen up this area of the wing). Cut this spar from the sectioned out foam. Add landing gear clips to the basswood landing gear blocks before you sheet the wing. Use a thin film of slow drying epoxy to attach the wing skins to the foam cores. If you are not sure how to use the epoxy to attach the wing skins do search on SSW (skinning foam wings).
(2)Fuselage: Add .2 ounce C/F matt between the plywood doubler and the balsa fuselage sides. Also add ½” cross-grain balsa between the maple motor mounts. To add a little more side area to the Magnum replace the ¼” balsa bottom sheeting with a piece of light ½”. Make sure that you hollow out the inside of the block after the outside is carved and sanded to shape. Increase the width of the fin ¾” by placing an addition piece of balsa between the back of the fin and front of the rudder.
(3)Flaps: The built up flaps work great when they are covered with silkspan and dope. If you are going to cover the model with plastic film, them either sheet the built up flaps with 1/32” balsa or cut them from solid sheet.
(4)Use a 1/8” music wire flap horn with the top bushing set at 1-1/4” and the lower busing set at 1”(the later kit had these horns from CSC). Use a 4” bellcrank with the flap pushrod inserted into the inner hole of (.800 from the pivot bolt). This will slow the controls down and allow us to move the C.G rearward 1/4" to 3/8" than stated in the instruction book. You can adjust the handle spacing depending on how you like the feel of the corners.

Try to be very careful with your application of glue and paint to avoid unnecessary weight. A simple paint scheme with the wings, flaps and tail surfaces covered with colored Jap tissue and dope painted fuselage is a simple and very light finish. Cut you letters and trim form different colored tissue and apply with clear dope to complete you scheme. A Magnum with the above mods that weights under 60 ounces is a killer model that can hold it own with anything out there.

FYI. The Magnum shown on the box label was build from kit wood and was painted with a dope finish. Weight was 60 ounces with a ST .60.

Mikey

Mike Pratt

Bob Reeves · Jul 24, 2003 09:29 AM

#10 source
Thanks Mike, Great info, would you mind clearing up a few points?

>Add a ¼” foam spar in the middle of the rear lighting hole in each
>of the foam wing panels...

What is j" 1/4 inch ?

>Add landing gear clips to the basswood landing gear blocks..

Do not understand what landing gear clips are ?

>Also add ½” cross-grain balsa between the maple motor mounts.

Thinking S" = 1/2 inch ?

Tony · Jul 24, 2003 06:11 PM

#11 source
Thanks Mike, some very useful info.

Best regards

Good Flying
Tony

willis · Jul 25, 2003 10:57 AM

#12 source
I retro-fitted a Saito 56 in my magnum which had a Veco 50 in it I had to add tail weight and because of the tank height I couldn’t use the cowl unless I cut it up. I recommend move the engine back 1 inch this should get the needle valve exit into to the fuselage and a 1 inch stunt tank with a 5/8 inch shim under the cowl. A 4 or 4 ½ oz tank should be enough fuel I use less then 4 oz with a 280 venturi
Willis