Any info please..?
Planning as next project.
Good flying
Tony (aka devcon9)
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 13 of 13 known posts recovered
Good flying
Tony (aka devcon9)
No, but I think that might be a very good combo. I would take 1 inch off the nose and don't change anything else. Should balance very close to the plans with a 9" nose. A 9" nose is also about as short as you can possibly go without recessing the wing front and still fit everything. Even though notching the wing is very easy.
What would really be cool is simply moving the wing hole forward 1 inch. That would be even better.
I just bought a Saito 56 to revisit the Saito 72's little brother. I would definately recomend the Jim Aaron 3 blade or my version of the 14" 2 blade flat back both from Brian Eather . Both should be run with the .265" venturi and the UHP manifold. Clunk tank, no uniflow, YS 20/20, blab blah blah....
The City Smasher
I think Godzilla has a good idea as far as moving the wing up 1" in the nose, it seems a lot of people are making the tail moment a little longe now. I would not be the one to ask but you may have to relieve the motor mounts and use a plastic tank since the nose is shortened. I know that with the PAs if you use a plastic tank the mounts have to be relieved.
Also I know Randy Smith and I think Tom Dixon had a re-worked version of the magnum with a little more side area in the back that was supposed to make it fly better, the one we have works well with a Tiger51 so I bet the Saito would be ganbusters.
aaron
Mike Pratt (Mikey)
Mike Pratt
Hi Mike
I am building this Magnum from the kit, I would appreciate any idea's for improvements you have.
Kind regards
Good flying
Tony
Kind regards
Good flying
Tony
Good flying
Tony
I also have a Magnum kit and a Saito 56.. Sounds like the two would go together pretty well...
I'm also building a Magnum, planning on using an ASP 61 4c. Any mods would be appreciated.
Also still waiting patiently for the P-Force I ordered.
Thanks!
Mike
(1)Wing: Weigh each piece of the wing sheeting and make sure that it at least 6 to 7 pound density wood. Add a ¼” foam spar in the middle of the rear lighting hole in each of the foam wing panels (this well stiffen up this area of the wing). Cut this spar from the sectioned out foam. Add landing gear clips to the basswood landing gear blocks before you sheet the wing. Use a thin film of slow drying epoxy to attach the wing skins to the foam cores. If you are not sure how to use the epoxy to attach the wing skins do search on SSW (skinning foam wings).
(2)Fuselage: Add .2 ounce C/F matt between the plywood doubler and the balsa fuselage sides. Also add ½” cross-grain balsa between the maple motor mounts. To add a little more side area to the Magnum replace the ¼” balsa bottom sheeting with a piece of light ½”. Make sure that you hollow out the inside of the block after the outside is carved and sanded to shape. Increase the width of the fin ¾” by placing an addition piece of balsa between the back of the fin and front of the rudder.
(3)Flaps: The built up flaps work great when they are covered with silkspan and dope. If you are going to cover the model with plastic film, them either sheet the built up flaps with 1/32” balsa or cut them from solid sheet.
(4)Use a 1/8” music wire flap horn with the top bushing set at 1-1/4” and the lower busing set at 1”(the later kit had these horns from CSC). Use a 4” bellcrank with the flap pushrod inserted into the inner hole of (.800 from the pivot bolt). This will slow the controls down and allow us to move the C.G rearward 1/4" to 3/8" than stated in the instruction book. You can adjust the handle spacing depending on how you like the feel of the corners.
Try to be very careful with your application of glue and paint to avoid unnecessary weight. A simple paint scheme with the wings, flaps and tail surfaces covered with colored Jap tissue and dope painted fuselage is a simple and very light finish. Cut you letters and trim form different colored tissue and apply with clear dope to complete you scheme. A Magnum with the above mods that weights under 60 ounces is a killer model that can hold it own with anything out there.
FYI. The Magnum shown on the box label was build from kit wood and was painted with a dope finish. Weight was 60 ounces with a ST .60.
Mikey
Mike Pratt
What is j" 1/4 inch ?
>Add landing gear clips to the basswood landing gear blocks..
Do not understand what landing gear clips are ?
>Also add ½” cross-grain balsa between the maple motor mounts.
Thinking S" = 1/2 inch ?
Best regards
Good Flying
Tony