ARF Nobler question

I got my ARF Nobler this week and was wondering how are you fellows changing the leadouts without stripping some of the covering from the inboard wing? Are you using solids or braided cables? And can the clevis and control horns be trusted? I apoligize if most of this info has been covered in a previuos post but so much has been said about the ARF Nobler and Flite Streak here on the Forum I cant keep up with it all.

Thanks Rick Henry

By the way as luck would have it we have had exceptionally good flying weather for the most part here in Muncie since the NATS ended.

I pulled the bellcrank out, then cut the eyelets off the outside end of the leadouts, leaving plain ends (still through the wing). Next, I used an Xacto to hone the covering off the exit tubes on the end of the wing, so I have as large of hole as possible. I then overlapped the new wire on top of the plain ends and wrapped with a 3/8" piece of scotch tape. Then I carefully pull the new wire through.

One worked fine. The front, however, pulled off the tape. So, I just kept feeding the new wire, bouncing it and rotating the wing whenever it hit a rib. Took about two minutes, but it worked. I then wrapped the inside of the lines around an eyelet and crimped them.

I removed the old hardware off the bellcrank and slightly enlarged the holes. I inserted 1/4" long 4/40 cap screws through the bottom, slid my eylet over the bolt, on top of the bellcrank, and spun a nut on top. I put epoxy over the nut so it doesn't work free.

If you do this, the back nut will hit the top of the hole on the inside rib when you give it full up. I stuck an exacto knife in at an angle and cut away the offending part of the rib. This, believe it or not, took about ten minutes because of the difficult angle.

What engine are you going to use, Mitch?

Here's how I changed the leadouts. I gutted the old stuff, then threaded .032" music wire through the leadout guides down to the bellcrank. Hold the wing vertically and it not too hard to do. I then used CA to glue the new flexible leadouts to the .032" wire and pulled it through to the 'crank. I replaced the 'crank with a 3" nylon unit - the old TopFlite one which is the same as the current Brodak model. I connected at the inside hole on the new 'crank which slows down the control ratios. That's a good thing if ya like an aft CG.

The word is these really fly well, so why risk the ship on a crappy control system.

Rick Campbell

>I removed the old hardware off the bellcrank and slightly
>enlarged the holes. I inserted 1/4" long 4/40 cap screws
>through the bottom, slid my eylet over the bolt, on top of
>the bellcrank, and spun a nut on top. I put epoxy over the
>nut so it doesn't work free.
>

Well Mitch it should take a direct hit from a patriot missile and the belcrank and leadouts should remain intake. Are you going to fly tomorrow?

I've special ordered some nuclear hardened titanium/kevlar mega strand leadouts. My system when complete should be able to withstand a 16.875 TON pull test. I'm also stripping off all the monokote because according to my calculations I can save .000725 ounces if I recover with white low heat econocote. While its stripped down I plan on sanding at least another .000932 oz off the fuse. Of course I will also be replacing the substandard motor mounts that those Red devils from China have used in place of good ole American maple. The tank compartment has also got to be totally reworked in order for me to get a 4.876 oz ultra uniflow bladder fuel injector tank that my special milled Nelson 31.5 stunt special needs to complete the Beginner pattern.

Thank the Lord for these ALMOST READY TO FLY Noblers!
I should be finished with it in a week or two.

hey catdaddy did you change the leadouts i want to find out if anybody has used the ones on the plane and had any sucess. also were coming to tulsa for your alls contest see if you can get bob to build a wood barrier for the ballon bust like old times. see brad smith

>hey catdaddy did you change the leadouts i want to find out
>if anybody has used the ones on the plane and had any
>sucess. also were coming to tulsa for your alls contest see
>if you can get bob to build a wood barrier for the ballon
>bust like old times. see brad smith

Seriously speaking I have decided to change out the leadouts with .032 solids. I wasn't going to but my fellow club members convinced me to do otherwise. Even though it will void my warranty!

Looking forward to seeing you at the contest, but I'm afraid the wood barrier ain't going to happen!

>I've special ordered some nuclear hardened titanium/kevlar mega strand leadouts. My system when complete should be able to withstand a 16.875 TON pull test. I'm also stripping off all the monokote because according to my calculations I can save .000725 ounces if I recover with white low heat econocote. While its stripped down I plan on sanding at least another .000932 oz off the fuse. Of course I will also be replacing the substandard motor mounts that those Red devils from China have used in place of good ole American maple. The tank compartment has also got to be totally reworked in order for me to get a 4.876 oz ultra uniflow bladder fuel injector tank that my special milled Nelson 31.5 stunt special needs to complete the Beginner pattern

That sounds like a lot of work for someone who has no chance unless he goes to well pressed white pants and clean white shoes. Maybe a navy blue shirt with contrasting white panels matching the airplane and "ARF Nober" embroideried on the back and "Navy" over the shirt pocket might get an extra point or two. White gloves, ala Michael Jackson would also likely be worth a few also.

>>I've special ordered some nuclear hardened titanium/kevlar mega strand leadouts. My system when complete should be able to withstand a 16.875 TON pull test. I'm also stripping off all the monokote because according to my calculations I can save .000725 ounces if I recover with white low heat econocote. While its stripped down I plan on sanding at least another .000932 oz off the fuse. Of course I will also be replacing the substandard motor mounts that those Red devils from China have used in place of good ole American maple. The tank compartment has also got to be totally reworked in order for me to get a 4.876 oz ultra uniflow bladder fuel injector tank that my special milled Nelson 31.5 stunt special needs to complete the Beginner pattern
>
>That sounds like a lot of work for someone who has no chance
>unless he goes to well pressed white pants and clean white
>shoes. Maybe a navy blue shirt with contrasting white panels
>matching the airplane and "ARF Nober" embroideried on the
>back and "Navy" over the shirt pocket might get an extra
>point or two. White gloves, ala Michael Jackson would also
>likely be worth a few also.

Maybe I'll get bonus points being a Navy Carrier flyer...

Bill

MINE FLIES GREAT WITH A RANDY SMITH FOX 35,NEEDS A LITTLE NOSE WEIGHT, MABY A OS 35 S IS BETTER BUT THE FOX IS JUST THE RIGHT POWER FOR THIS PLANE. CHANGED THE LEADOUTS TO 032 SOLIDS AND A NYLON BRODAK BELLCRANK. THE FLAP AND ELEVATOR HORNS ARE PERFECT, ADDED A 4 1/2 OZ BRODAK SLIM TANK AND WITH 10% ITS PLEANTY OF TIME ,AND PUT A CARBON FIBER ROD OVER THE ONE IN THE KIT,JUST IN CASE. DOES LOOPS AFTER ENGINE IS OFF. AREAL GOOD FUN PLANE. ALSO TANK IS REMOVEABLE FROM THE FRONT.GREAT FLYING NEAL.

Can you fill the ARF nobler up with gas like how you usually do on a stunt plane? By running one of the "tubes" outside the fuselage and fill it up without taking any fuel line off. Is that how the Nobler tank is, has a tube running outside to fill it up and then a tube on the bottom or where ever to drain out when it is full? Or do you have to take the fuel line off. Just wondering because tower says there are soon going to be back in stock and i have one on order and on the site for accessories needed it says you need Easy fueler valve. Just wondering if you need it and what the tank is like. Cant wait till the streak and nobler get back in stock to do some ARF flying!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK135

Ryan,
Check out TF's downloadable manual for the Nobler here: http://www.top-flite.com/manuals/index.html This will give some insight on the construction. The fuel tank and related hardware should be very much "good to go" as they say, depending on your own view of said hardware. Comments here on the SSW board relate that many are changing out or upgrading the hardware to there own standards. Your call of course on that one. You'll be able to give the fuel fill item a pass for sure,..at least I would. Normal c/l tank install and function will be in the works with the Nobler ARF. HTH

Thanks for all of the info guys, and thanks for the E-Mail Rick (catdaddy) but no, I was not offended by your post. I actually got a kick out of your post. We hope to finish my sons ARF Nobler this weekend and post some pictures. I work some strange hours and we just have not had time to finish the Nobler but Monday I start 2 weeks of vacation. We did replace the bellcrank with a Sig nylon unit and also replaced the leadouts with a left over set from a Sig Magnum kit. We used the horns supplied with the ARF kit and also used the supplied fuel tank. My intent is to use the airplane to help teach my son the beginners pattern so I wasnt real concerned about the tank size. The airplane seems very light so I am trying to decide between one of my Fox 35's and my sons OSLA 25. My son Eric is 8 years old and he is flying and looping a 20 year old Flite Streak with an OS LA 25. He is pretty excited about the Nobler but I just hope the airplane isnt to big for the little guy.

Thanks Again

Rick Henry:)

Replaced the leadouts on my first ARF Nobler this morning. Took about 15 minutes from start to finish, including taking the picture. I just cut the eyelets off the stock leadouts, removed the bellcrank and pulled everything out. Used .032 solids and they dropped right in with the wing held vertically. Put the front leadout on the bellcrank outside the wing then worked it down, in and around the spar so I could pull it out behind the spar to connect the rear leadout. Then worked the whole mess back down into the wing and on the bolt.

I don't see anything wrong with the stock bellcrank, it's actually made out of thicker aluminum than the old Veco's we know and love.