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OS remote needle valve

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 7 of 7 known posts recovered

cl_mcm · Jun 19, 2001 10:15 PM

#0 source
Has anyone had any experience using the remote needle valve on an OS engine? I just finished a plane that started as a profile P-51B, but ended up with my own built up fuselage. I bought a brand new OS .40 FPS C/L with remote needle valve. I figured it wouldn't really work, but decided to try it anyway. I actually mounted the needle valve 3/4" behind the engine on the plywood firewall and it sits safely about 4" behind the propellor, just in front of a plastic uniflow gas tank that actually works.
I put on a Bruline fine filter to restrict venturi and added a third head gasket. Have a three-blade 10-6 prop. Went to start it up, thinking the remote needle wouldn't work and I would have to order a new needle valve.
Darnest thing. The engine started right up and ran absolutely flawlessly through four tanks of gas. I could get a 4-2, but it was a little rough. Great rich 2, lean 2. Have no complaints, but haven't flown it yet. What should I expect?

kdheath · Jun 20, 2001 12:05 AM

#1 source
Betcha it will work just fine, but watch out for leaks. I hate to have any more joints in my fuel system than possible because each one greatly increases the chances of a leak and decreases the ease of finding one, should it occur. I refuse to use filters in the airplane for that reason.
K

Steve Helmick · Jun 20, 2001 12:49 AM

#2 source
Expect slow NV response. Also, Scott and Nils will tell you to use the 10-4 3 blade, not the 10-6. Steve

Howard Rush · Jun 20, 2001 01:05 AM

#3 source
I have been flying this week with a bloke whose airplane's fuel system has more joints than a Grateful Dead concert. Plenty of other problems, but no leaks so far.

Brett Buck · Jun 20, 2001 01:51 AM

#4 source
> Betcha it will work
>just fine, but watch out
>for leaks. I hate to
>have any more joints in
>my fuel system than possible
>because each one greatly increases
>the chances of a leak
>and decreases the ease of
>finding one, should it occur.
>I refuse to use filters
>in the airplane for that
>reason.


You are right in the assesment that the needle will work just like a regular one. I think you should reconsider using a filter in the airplane.

Brett

Warren · Jun 20, 2001 01:59 PM

#5 source
> Betcha it will work
>just fine, but watch out
>for leaks. I hate to
>have any more joints in
>my fuel system than possible
>because each one greatly increases
>the chances of a leak
>and decreases the ease of
>finding one, should it occur.
>I refuse to use filters
>in the airplane for that
>reason.
>K

K,

I used to be rather ambivalent about the use of an 'in-plane' fuel filter. Many top fliers didn't use them, and you are correct, you are added 3 additional joints to an already sensitive fuel system.

My mind was definitely changed the day I opened up a perfectly good looking metal tank, and found that 3 of the inside walls were about 75% covered with flaking rust particles !!!! It would only take a couple of these small particles to clog the tiny orifice in your NVA and cause a flame out....and you most likely would be near the top of the circle and inverted.

I always run a demountable filter (I've seen problems with the two piece plastic ones) that has a gasket between the two halves. I make a narrow 'clamp' out of an appropiate sized piece of fuel tubing, and put those clamps over the tubing on the nipples of the fuel filter. A good pair of tweezers or forceps will be required to get the clamps over the tubing.

Experiment a little with different fuel tubing to a find size that has the proper inside diameter that is reasonable to put, and provides the correct pressure.

I find that the 'tubing clamp' gives a more uniform pressure than commercial metal hose clamps or twisted, fine wire. Because the pressure is so uniform, you will find that after the assembly has been together for some time, it actually becomes a little difficult to pull apart (excellant seal).

In addition to the tank itself being a source of particles, you also have one or two vent open to the atmosphere all the time...when the plane is sitting on the ground, in the back of your van, and also in your shop. Lots of opportunity to get particles into your tank.

JMHO. Give the fuel tubing clamp technique a try, and see how you like it. And don't be fooled into thinking that a metal tank looks the same inside as out side.

Cheers,

Warren

Nils · Jun 20, 2001 02:53 PM

#6 source
I've even scooped airborn bugs into my uniflow tube. Fortunately I was flying a profile with a plastic uniflow tank & saw the little beastie squirt into the tank the next time I fueled it. I have 16 (non half A) airplanes (12 CL & 4 RC), ALL of them have fuel filters on them. I use the aluminum hex shaped take aparts & have had zero problems with them leaking. I've also had zero problems with pud in my spraybars as long as I keep them out of the ground.
Nils