Lustre Kote over Dope

I know that many of you use Automotive Clear over dope finish with good results. But, has anyone tried to spray Lustre Kote rattle can Crystal Clear finish over Sig or Brodak dope?

I am looking for non-dope clear coat finish that is a little easier to apply than getting into complicated 2 part finish, plus I do not want to deal with the toxic fumes.

I've used Lustercote clear over dope with no problems. Another clear that works well is Chevron brand by Perfect. Both of these paints are Enamels. Dennis

Minwax polyurethane in either gloss or satin work well. Does yellow slightly over a white finish though.
Cheaper than Lusterkote, sprays better also, very fuelproof.

Can you paint minwax polyurathane over minwax polycrylic?

Have you ever used stain on balsa wood?

>Can you paint minwax polyurathane over minwax polycrylic?

I did my new flight box in Polycrylic then discovered that it was not fuel proof. I used a "rattle can" of Minwax polyurathane gloss clear to put two coats over the Polycrylic. It went on good and did not seem to have any issues with bonding. Based on this single sample, I believe that they are compatible.
Steve

What do you use as the ruducer or thinner? Regular paint thinner?
What ratio?

Maybe it's just my sense of smell, but LustreCote always smelled like dope to me. If you already have dope on the plane, I don't completely understand why you just don't go with Sig Clear. Yes it dries slower than Brodak, but it is more fuel proof (based upon an unscientific survey done at our field).

There is also an English brand of clear (Aerocoat???), which is a two part mix, but I am not sure how potent the fumes are. Fred, maybe you could chime in here. It may be quite tough to get also.

Alan,

I believe the material is called 'Aerocote'. It is available in flat, semi-gloss and gloss finish. It comes in a 2-part mix with the catalyst in a small bottle. The mix ratio is pretty high, I think around 25 to 1, however, don't quote me as I don't have any in front of me. Generally, I've used it with a brush, as it self-levels quite well, but you can thin it with a variety of thinners (supposedly) for spraying. I've used dope thinners quite successfully when clearcoating a colored dope finish. After application, it sets up in about 15 minutes and is quite hard overnite. I've used it on 1/2A stunters running 25% Nitro with absolutely no affect on the finish. I seem to remember that it will tolerate over %50 nitro.

It has a 'familiar' odor, but I can't place it. I've been told that it originated as a furniture finish, so perhaps it is a type of urethane.

The material is listed in the 2000 Irvine catalog, however, I unfortunately do not know of a U.S. supplier. I obtained some through a friend with connections in the U.K.

Any fellows from the U.K. that can shed more information on characteristics and availability?

yes, I tried to spray with Sig Clear. I used the Sig Super Coast clear and it was a disaster. The decal bubbled and all of the fillet lifted. What am I doing wrong? I thinned it 50/50 using Dupont 3608s. What that too thin?

I did not have this problem with Brodak clear, but it very hard to find in this area.

I've used Lustre Kote over a base of Brodak sliver with no problem unless you have to patch something. You have to take the finish down the dope layers with dope thinner before you patch because dope won't go over Lustre Kote. My SkyRay 35 was finished this way because after I sprayed the silver, I lost access to spray equipment. Needless to say, a good compresser is tops on my wish list (soon I hope).

Mike