mikey_93612 · Aug 09, 2003 12:38 PM
#0 sourcethanks mike
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 9 of 9 known posts recovered
thanks mike
George
The "weak" trailing as a wire that bowed when the covering shrank. The wire was fairly common as a T/E in those days. The struts added plenty of non-twist resistance, so the wire was just to hold the covering on.
By the way, my rule of thumb for wingtip weight is enough to get a profile model to balance about 1/4" outboard of the fuselage without the engine. It is a great starting point, and usually I don't have to add or remove any. It's usually is about 1/2 oz.
Bare
Thanks,
George
I still stick by a method to get close to the amount needed.
Find a way to try to balance the model on its fuselage centerline. For monoplanes, this is usually on its back to get the wheels out of the way. For a bipe, possibly up on a pair of blocks ahead of and behind the wing.
Get the reel with the lines you'll use, and put it on the INBOARD wing, halfway from the fuse centerline to the leadout guides. Get an empty identical reel (if you're fussy, include the same number and type of clips and keepers) and put it the SAME distance out on the OUTBOARD wing.
Add tip weight until it is balanced. Yeah, it is "tippy" so a hair outboard heavy is better than the opposite.
Principle is flier supports half the line weight, plane half. Lines at half the distance from center provide a see-saw solution the same as half the full weight at the leadout guide position. The weights of the identical reels cancel out.
It comes very close, and fianl trimming, if needed, will only show in flight testing.
\BEST\LOU