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spad biwing

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 9 of 9 known posts recovered

mikey_93612 · Aug 09, 2003 12:38 PM

#0 source
anyone know how much tip wait this plane uses im trying to get it done for the clovis contest its a vintage plane im restoring thanks

thanks mike

Currell · Aug 09, 2003 10:35 PM

#1 source
Sig Spad profile? If so, about 1/2 to 3/4 ounce. Currell

mikey_93612 · Aug 10, 2003 07:40 AM

#2 source
thank you for the info

thanks mike

gcb · Aug 10, 2003 08:19 AM

#3 source
Q: Did all versions of the SPAD biplane use the weak T/E that produced the scallops?

George

Currell · Aug 10, 2003 11:13 AM

#4 source
I believe so, George. But is it that much weaker, and does it really matter? Currell

barenekd · Aug 10, 2003 06:19 PM

#5 source
LAST EDITED ON Aug-10-03 AT 06:23 PM (CDT)
 
> Q: Did all versions of the SPAD biplane use the weak T/E
>that produced the scallops?
>
> George

The "weak" trailing as a wire that bowed when the covering shrank. The wire was fairly common as a T/E in those days. The struts added plenty of non-twist resistance, so the wire was just to hold the covering on.
By the way, my rule of thumb for wingtip weight is enough to get a profile model to balance about 1/4" outboard of the fuselage without the engine. It is a great starting point, and usually I don't have to add or remove any. It's usually is about 1/2 oz.
Bare

gcb · Aug 11, 2003 04:47 AM

#6 source
LAST EDITED ON Aug-11-03 AT 04:48 AM (CDT)
 
My reason for asking is that I saw a SPAD from Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome that from the distance I was sitting, did not appear to have the scallops. Oh well, guess I'll have to check up close next time I go to the Aerodrome.

Thanks,
George

Lou Crane · Aug 11, 2003 12:02 PM

#7 source
Mike,

I still stick by a method to get close to the amount needed.

Find a way to try to balance the model on its fuselage centerline. For monoplanes, this is usually on its back to get the wheels out of the way. For a bipe, possibly up on a pair of blocks ahead of and behind the wing.

Get the reel with the lines you'll use, and put it on the INBOARD wing, halfway from the fuse centerline to the leadout guides. Get an empty identical reel (if you're fussy, include the same number and type of clips and keepers) and put it the SAME distance out on the OUTBOARD wing.

Add tip weight until it is balanced. Yeah, it is "tippy" so a hair outboard heavy is better than the opposite.

Principle is flier supports half the line weight, plane half. Lines at half the distance from center provide a see-saw solution the same as half the full weight at the leadout guide position. The weights of the identical reels cancel out.

It comes very close, and fianl trimming, if needed, will only show in flight testing.

\BEST\LOU

F4FGuy · Aug 11, 2003 08:49 PM

#8 source
Ron B.
F4Fguy

Lou:
Got there before I could!Exactly right!

Ron B.