ARF Nobler control clevises

LAST EDITED ON Aug-14-03 AT 10:26 AM (CDT)
 
I wonder if it will be alright to use the R/C control clevises supplied with the ARF Nobler kit? I seem to remember reading something Larry Cunningham wrote about using these things, and having them fail. I guess other options would be ball type links or "Z" bends.
Also, how about beefing up those engine mount rails ? They sure look spindly just sticking out there. You know, one of my problems building model airplanes is my tendency to add about 4 ounces of "improvements" to them.

I think we all come to the table with different ideas, so I would advise doing what you want. I wanted my Nobler to be close to stock as possible, so I used most of the hardware provided--but did change the leadouts. I was/am a little worried about those clevises, but used them nevertheless. One "nice" thing is that I can easily inspect the things since I can remove the wing, and also make a simple cut in the monocote near the tail to get access to the elevator clevis.

Now whether it will fail catastrophically, I am not sure.

About the motor mounts, it might depend upon the engine you use. My Brodak40 feels pretty smooth, so I am not really worried. If you plug on a Fox or other potential shaker, maybe that might be a worry.

My attitude was to get it up and going as soon as possible--I needed a flapped stunter, so rather than working up anxiety attacks about everything, I just went with the flow. So far, so good. At least I am able to perform a full pattern now (well it looks like one to me anyway!). If something lets go, I'll report it.

I can remove the wing, and also make a simple cut in
>the monocote near the tail to get access to the elevator
>clevis.
>

Great! Can you tell us how you attached the wing to make it removable? I brought this up earlier, but nobody had done it yet. Did you use the kit bolt arrangement, add additional bolts (such as RC nylon types with blocks) or do something else alltogether?

Thanks,

Andrew,

Check Ty's Nobler thread on the review page.

>Andrew,
>
>Check Ty's Nobler thread on the review page.
>
>Alan

I am moving that to the main page as it seems to have strayed from its original intent.

Don, I placed some balsa in between the rails in the fuel tank area. This will help dampen some vibrations. You are not alone in thinking that those motor mounts are a little anemic. 1/2 by 3/8th would be better. I guess the key to this entire plane is don't crash and it will hold up. That leaves me out as I seem to come in inverted at the worst possible time, which is anytime.

Ty,

Are you going to bring your ARF Nobler to the Millington Fun-Fly? Remember, we are going to have a "Best Looking" ARF Nobler Contest.

Hi Louis. Yes,I intend to. But lets hope it makes it that long. I am gooing to Longmont, CO just before your fly in and will be there on time, on the way home. How convenient, no?

I just stuffed my NoblARF into wet, soft grass. I hit my own turbulance when doing a couple of outsides to clear my lines after the pattern. Aside from a couple of cracks in the fuse aft of the wing, damage was minimal.

The worst damage is that the clevis on the elevator horn seems to have stripped from the impact of the crash. That's the only part of the control system I didn't replace!!

Ahhh, my old trick, stunts after the pattern and pile it in. I now, well usually, fly level after the pattern and now I have a garage full of planes that have lasted all summer, so far.
I have used the clevis supplied and let's hope I don't break mine too.

> I wonder if it will be alright to use the R/C control
>clevises supplied with the ARF Nobler kit? I seem to
>remember reading something Larry Cunningham wrote about
>using these things, and having them fail.

I would say you are on borrowed time. Just keep a good eye on them, and I would be tempted to replace them periodically (like, maybe every hundred or so flights).

That's an interesting thought. I guess I replace clevises on combat planes every hundred flights. Of course, that's about 12 airplanes. About every hundred flights the pushrod or stab takes a direct hit.

I put a Brodak 40 in mine and the mounts were so thin ( a tad less than 5/16" vs the normal 3/8") that the holes would have been on the outside edges and the flange part of the 4-40 blind nuts would hang over. So I just laminated a 1/8 x 1/2 piece of maple motor mount stock on the outside of each mount, forward of F1 only, with epoxy.
Allan Perret