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Help with Nobler ARF fuel tank

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 7 of 7 known posts recovered

Rick · Aug 23, 2003 08:06 PM

#0 source
Can someone who used the fuel tank provided in the Nobler ARF help me with some info? I used the provided tank in the Nobler ARF my son and I built and we are having problems. I though we had the vent, overflow, fuel line configuration figured out but I guess I was wrong because the darn thing wont fill all of the way and wont draw fuel. The diagram in the instruction booklet isnt the best and I have never used a tank like this before. The tank has three tubes coming out the front in the center of the tank. One is centered above the other two which are side by side (this is with the Nobler sitting on its wheels). I ran the top tube to the muffler for pressure, lower outboard tube to the spraybar and the lower inside tube as the vent. As close as I could figure this is the way that the instruction booklet shows it being done.


Your help would be appreciated;

Thanks Rick Henry

The Kiwi · Aug 23, 2003 09:13 PM

RE: How an all-tubes forward tank looks#1 source
LAST EDITED ON Aug-23-03 AT 11:06 PM (CDT)
 
(If it's uniflow, it should have been assembled to look like this one:

[photo not recovered: BH-487.gif]


The furthest inboard vent is capped after filling. The uniflow vent is also the FILL and doesn't HAVE to be attached to anything. The furthest outboard is the fuel feed line.) If it's not uniflow, it may require experimenting to determine which is fill & which is overflow.

When you pressurize a stanadrd atmospheric-vented tank from the muffler, you still CAP OFF the one you don't pressurize. Typically, the overflow is slightly more useful as a pressure connection when it has the older venting arrangements.

.
Kiwi

**

Rick · Aug 23, 2003 09:45 PM

RE: How an all-tubes forward tank looks#2 source
Thanks Kiwi,

The ARF Nobler tank looks a little different than that. All three tubes are in the center of the front of the tank. I have used tanks like the one in your diagram but this one is different and the diagram in the instruction booklet doesnt help much.

Thanks Rick

Elwyn · Aug 23, 2003 10:41 PM

RE: How an all-tubes forward tank looks#3 source
LAST EDITED ON Aug-23-03 AT 10:43 PM (CDT)
 
I just dug mine out and started playing with the fuel syringe. If you're looking at the front of the tank and the "pinch" on the back of the tank is on the left side, then the pick-up tube to the engine should be the tube on the left. The middle tube should be the overflow tube and the right tube should be the fill tube.

Rick · Aug 25, 2003 12:10 PM

RE: How an all-tubes forward tank looks#4 source
LAST EDITED ON Aug-25-03 AT 12:15 PM (CDT)
 
Finally got the Nobler ARF in the air Sunday evening for its first flight. Roger Wildman and Allen Goff were on hand and looked the airplane over and then assisted at the flight line. The OS 30S came to life on the first flip, Allen launched and the Nobler ARF did a nice roll out and climbed smoothly into the air. After about a half lap the engine went rich and the airplane just kind of putted around the circle for a couple of laps and then died. The Nobler landed smoothly and rolled to a stop. Allen suggested changing glow plugs so Roger grabbed a new plug from his flight box and we topped off the tank. We fipped the Nobler over but this time the engine didnt fire up on the first flip and then I flooded it. We ended up using Allens starter and the engine roared to life. I walked out to the handle, Roger made a couple of adjustments to the needle and Allen launched. The Nobler was airborn so after a few laps and some easy climbs and dives I did a few loops and then a couple of inside squares. About half way through the flight I started hearing a lot of vibration but the airplane still seemed to fly pretty smooth. After landing we checked the Nobler over and discovered that the motor was loose and the muffler was also loose from the motor. I pulled the cowling off and the engine out and then checked the front of the airplane hoping the front end hadnt vibrated apart. The engine bearers seemed to be fine but I still dont know why the engine came loose. I didnt fly the Nobler again because we were running out of time and everyone wanted to fly.

My impression after flying the Nobler ARF is that it seems to have a lot of potential. The OS 30S seemed to be plenty of power and I think Allen and Roger were both impressed with the quality of the airplane considering the price.

The Kiwi · Aug 25, 2003 01:09 PM

RE: Old style Iron Piston vibrations#5 source
In the 10-15 years, whatever it's been, since ABC technology became affordable in model engines, some of us are already tending to forget how badly the older stuff vibrated. Including Max-S 30's/35's. Those really need to be snugged down, and the mount needs to be confirmed as capable of standing up to that vibration.

There has been a photo posted here (I think it was SSW) showing some added motor mount gussets that I suspect are pretty close to mandatory for a Fox 35 in a GP ARF Nobler. I have added a larger LE to Fuselage ply gusset to the bought-built, but stock, kit Streak I am flying the last month or so, to resist the vibration of a GH 29-S I'm using.

I haven't opened an ARF Nobler box, but from the photos, I surmise that the extended ends of the mounts where the engine resides are uusupported. If so, I personally wouldn't leave them that way when using a majority of the Iron Piston engines that might be otherwise suitable choices.

.
Kiwi

**

Rick · Aug 26, 2003 12:54 PM

RE: Old style Iron Piston vibrations#6 source
Kiwi I think your right about the need to beef up the front end a little depending on which engine you go with. Roger Wildman also made that suggestion after seeing the model with the cowling off. I have enough room between the back of the engine and the first former to either put some cross grain balsa or a piece off maple motor mount between the bearers so I think I will do that.

Thanks Rick