Doping wings

From my limited experience, I've found that getting a couple or three coats of clear on the ribs edges and sanding in between each coat can make a significant improvement on how the final finish comes out. Well, on my last couple of models, I decided why not put the clear on the ribs prior to even framing the wing up. It's much easier to brush the dope on each rib as a single piece, let it dry and then sand them. I get much better coverage than when I attempt to dope a finished wing assembly. I also find that I can put a nice radius on the rib edges quickly, without worrying about what the back edge of the sanding block or emory board is doing, i.e., it's much too easy to put a notch where you don't one, if your not really careful. I still put a couple of coats of clear on the framed up wing and sand, but I find I it goes much quicker since I know the rib edges are already done. Well, for what it's worth, that's my little tid bit. Comments.......Suggestions?

Sounds good John, but I'd be concerned with a couple things. First If the ribs are not correctly shaped in profile then the airfoil will vary. I use a long "T" bar sander to make sure the ribs all follow the same contour. Second, if they don't match well to the leading and trailing edges you'll either need to sand those places indiviually of have unsightly spots at the ends of the ribs. Another concern would be dope in the glue join. Depending on the glue you're using you could end up with it just lying on the surface rather then getting a good penetrating soak into the join. If you can over come these I think its a great idea.

Thanks for your comments Randy. I am not talking about changing the shape of the ribs. I use 400 or 600 paper, just knocking the fuzz off and putting a radius on the upper and lower edges. The dope fills in the pockets in the wood. I make most of the ribs with the sandwich method, even if it is a straight chord wing and finish up with 400 paper before I take the sandwich apart. I find it difficult to use the long sanding bars on a framed up wing. Still, to get a nice radius as I learned on one of Windy's videos, you still have to put on two or three coats, sanding in between each coat and then use an emory board or something similar on the edges. It really does make a difference in the final finish, if the edges (ribs, spars, leading and trailing all have a small radius on the edges of the open bays. The paper really lays down much smoother when it pulls up tight. Anyway, that's my experience.

If you are covering with silk, you want the rib edges well doped beforehand, else you end up with the open bays nice and shiney and the weave still visible over the ribs. Voice of experience.