Candy colors ...and stealing from kids?

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 6 of 6 known posts recovered

TigreST · Jul 05, 2001 02:16 PM

Just received an order of Brodak "Candy" colors. Anybody have and tips/technique to share in there regard? The fine print on the bottle is not bad but what else is out there, ...or do I need to order Windy's video collection

? Thanks guys.
Tony

Randy Ryan · Jul 05, 2001 07:39 PM

#1 source

LAST EDITED ON Jul-05-01 AT 07:40 PM (EST)

Hey Tigre,

I will assume you know about thinning, retarder and spray painting basics, if not, don't try to learn with candy colors.

First, surface prep. Candy colors shown EVERYTHING underneath, so make sure you prep it well.

Second, base coat, if you use silver or gold make sure you put a coat of clear over it before you do any masking or the pigment will lift.

Third, when you apply the color, do it in thin mist coats always changing direction with you gun to get it even. Once you get it blotched it is very difficult to make even without going very dark.

Forth, when you put the clear on give is LOTS of time between coats or the color will bleed up through. When you sand it you will sand the color which is NOT what you want. Try very hard to keep dope to a minimum in the fillets, it WILL lift if it's too heavy. About three coats of clear is sufficient, it builds fast.

Fifth, Sand with 2000 grit wet&dry and polish with Brasso followed with McGuire's (splg?) swirl remover.

Randy Ryan

Nils · Jul 05, 2001 10:55 PM

#2 source

Good rundown Randy, that's exactly how it was done at the Ol' Bodyshop back in the lacquer days, except we used rubbing compound & a buffer

Nils

TigreST · Jul 06, 2001 06:13 AM

#3 source

Thanks Randy, Nils,
I'm not new to "Candies", but wondered if there was anything specific to Brodaks that needed to be addressed. Sounds like it's straight forward in most respects. I've got the silver and gold for base, but think I'll be going with the white for a different effect. I'm thinking with white I'll get kind of a translucent day-glo kinda look.

The "Pink" will enable me to get in touch with my feminine side. "Now isn't that a cute Magnum", he said.

Number of coats will effect the look, regarding dark or light shading as is normal for candies. One thing that somewhat surprised me was the viscosity of the paint as it comes straight from the jar, thinner then solid colors it seems to me. And yet recommended thinning is still 50/50 color to thinner. Randy, how's the "run-ability" of this stuff, ..more or less prone to runs when thinned? These colors will be trim work only at this point. Thanks for the info. gents. Randy, your "Gladiator's" a beauty by the way!
Tony

Randy Ryan · Jul 06, 2001 08:19 PM

#4 source

Thanks for the compliment Tony,

I had no trouble with sagging or running, and probably was thinner then 50-50. Of course the candy goes on so lightly that runs won't be a problem. I stress again, watch the clear in the fillets, it will break you heart if you get it too heavy there.

I don't know how you do you fillets, but I suggest going over them with 220 grit paper before the silver. The added roughness will aid in adhesion and believe it or not it won't show up in the finish, it must have something to do with the curvature of the fillet because if you did it on a flat surface it would be a sore thumb!

HMMM, feminine side? What am I missing here?

Hey Nils,

How do you think I learned candy? HE HE!, how I wish I could go back and reclaim all the Harleys (and other bikes)
I "customized". Hind sight is indeed 20-20.

Randy

JAK · Jul 06, 2001 08:30 PM

#5 source

I just use acrylic (liquid dye) in clear dope (Aerogloss usually), and zero problems. You can tint it as dense as you like, all the way from candy to completely opaque. LIGHT too! I wouldn't expect too much from the white if I were you. My experience is that it works ok, but doesn't look all that great when done.
My thanks to the Master GMA for the tip...

JAK