Hi Brian:
You do need an external line regulator and filter for your setup. HF has those but any sears, canadian tire, tractor supply, etc can probably fix you up also. It is best to mount the filter/drier some distance from the compressor so the hot air from the compressor cools and condenses out any moisture. I split my 50' hose to 25' and mount the filter/reg at the 25' point.
As Bob said, adjust the compressor cut-off for 90 to 125 depending on the mfg recommendation.
There is some drop in the hose maybe aa much as 3-5 lbs depending upon the diameter and flow required. I'd start at about 20-25 psi set with the trigger pulled and air only flowing. Thin dope to 50-50 or even 60% thinner to start.
Atomized mineral spirits is VERY flamable so be careful.
Never mind the naysayers, your set-up will produce a world class finish once you get the hang of it.
When seting up the gun, get paint in it and everything hooked up. You can start with a piece of brown cardboard--then switch to some white foam-core art board to guage the smoothness and weight of material better. I like to use grey for trials because you can see what you're doing.
Turn both screws all the way in on the gun. the rear one should be the paint control. The seccond one is the air control--changes the fan shape of the pattern. now open the fan control (air) maybe a half turn. with the gun held perpendicular to the surface being sprayed, and 6-8 inches away, pull the trigger. Now, with the trigger down, crack open the paint control--in a second or two, you will notice paint being put on the test surface. The pattern should be a round spot or maybe elliptical. Adjust the paint control first--you should be able to set it so it will put on a semi-transparent layer of material as you move your hand across the area about the speed you would use to pet your dog or flow on paint from a foam brush. Now adjust the fan control for the size pattern you need. With a small gun, this might be a 2 or three inches high be an inch wide. You can turn the spray nozzel cap to oriient the pattern any way you like--most painting is done with the pattern vertical--nozzle horizontal. Feel free to move this around while you paint.
Also, as the pattern gets larger with the air control, you will need to open the paint control to get more material over the larger area.
IF you spray a stationary spot for about one second, there should be no globs or runs--if there are, too much paint.
When spryiong, remember to keep the gun a fixed distance from and always perpendicualr to the surface at all times, Steady speed is also important. Try to view the surface from an angle as you spray so as to judge the material thickness being applied. To little or too fast a hand speed and the finish will have a dusty chalkboard-type surface. Too much paint or too slow a movement will result in a "wet" area and maaay run or orange peel.
A lttile retarder applied to dope and lacquer finishes will assist in allowing the paint to "flow out" prior to flashing off or drying.
Remember to wear a respirator--tight fitting with appropriate chemical cannisters on it. Invest in a good one--go to your local automotive paint dealer and ask. Wilson, Morton, 3M, etc.
And remember also that atomized materials and solvents air very flash flammable.
I could be more specific with the controls if you send along the model number of the gun.
ALso, look up Godzilla's treatise on painting with automotive paints for a reference to the HF filter/Regulators.
Hope this helps.
PS: for cleaning, first empty any remaining paint from the pot and rinse the cup with cleaning solvent. Get the cheap lacquer thinner from the hardware store for cleaning. Add a little solllllvent to the cup and spray onto a rag or paper to clear the gun. Do a couple of iterations of this till the solvent comes out clear. Then, loosen the nozzle cap a couple of turns and remove the paint cup. Hold a rag tightly over the air outlets, depress the trigger and it will back blow out the pickup tube. Careful of where it goes!
Finally, remove the nozzle, and aircap and clean with a brush. Flush the gun parts until no sign os the old material are visible. this should take no more than 5 or ten minutes after the first couple of times
This is usually sufficient if applying colors next--if you go to clear, then you need to carefully disassemble the gun aad clean everything.
PS2: Remember that compressed air can kill you if it enters the blood stream. Be carefull where the gun is pointed when cleaning, etc.
Have fun--dont paint a plane till you,re comfortable with the foam board or an old car door.
Regards
