Cheap Buffer

LAST EDITED ON Oct-02-03 AT 12:00 PM (CDT)
 
I am going to go get one of these and convert it over for buffing.

Super cheap.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31309

>I am going to go get one of the sand convert it over for
>buffing.
>
>Super cheap.
>
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31309

It turns to fast and will burn the paint.

Look at Harbors buffers and compair the RPM's

LAST EDITED ON Oct-02-03 AT 09:51 AM (CDT)
 
Yep, you want something in the 1500-2500 RPM range and even at that burning edges is tough to avoid. Even Harbors buffers are too fast for paint, they're ment for metal polishing.

Take a look at their poliser 41377-1VGA. Its rated at 4000RPM but is orbital so the bonnet doesn't actually turn at that speed, its also only 6" with will be much easier to control. $19.99 ain't a bad price either.

What you want is a polisher. Try this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41377

Or this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45479

Just watch the flaps and be prepared to repaint the edges. Do NOT use it on covered rib areas unless you love to touch up "sand throughs".

Terry,

It will burn dope, but 'zilla, like me, uses auto finish. Stuff is very, very hard.

I use a large buffer disk on a speed controlled angle grinder. Works surprisingly well.

LAST EDITED ON Oct-02-03 AT 12:03 PM (CDT)
 
>Terry,
>
>It will burn dope, but 'zilla, like me, uses auto finish.
>Stuff is very, very hard.
>
>I use a large buffer disk on a speed controlled angle
>grinder. Works surprisingly well.
>
>

Randy Powell

Me too. I have a Makita with a 9" foam disc running at full blast.

Just a little big for fuse sides.

Use what you want, but no professional auto detail shop would ever allow a 8000 RPM buffer to be used. 2400 to 3600 is about the right speed.

Brad if you are going to convert you will only need to add a light dimmer switch in the line to control the RPM. I suggest a heavy duty one but if you buy the cheap ones they are about 4 bucks. The heavy duty ones will be in the 15.00 range, Home Depot.
Richard Oliver

My grinder/buffer has a speed control not unlike a Dremel tool. from barely turning to about 8000 rpm. After a lot of experimentation, the best has been aroun 4000 rpm, but that's me. I've buffed many, many cars and this is about where I end up. Sometimes a bit bit slower if the paint is particularly thin.

I use 3 different disk sizes. I an a little 4" one for small parts (control surfaces, fuse and such), a bigger 9" one that is the general purpose job and a big 12" one that I use usually on cars, though I have used is occasionally on wing panels with a very soft buffing pad.

Hey Zilla,

They also make random orbit heads to mount on these, might be worth considering.

Also, I just bought a 5 amp DeWalt 4" angle grinder, $40 brand new. Granted twice as much, probably built in the same plant... Due to the need for more power, the 8 amp versions of these have become the trend and the original 4 and 5 amp models are CHEAP. I found out that my 5 amp Milwaukee wasn't worth fixing when a defective generator burnt the armature.

Not sure if you've used these things much, but they precess a bunch and aren't the easiest things to control. The little palm random orbit sanders seem to be a bit easier. Either because how you hang on to them, not spinning as fast or maybe because there's less mass in the rotating parts, don't know, don't really care, but they do seem easier to control. They're usually 4 1/2" or 5", the larger 6" versions have the same motor setup as a angle grinder and aren't the easiest to control.

Insofar as easy to control, none of them are a big deal on a hardwood floor or a piece of furniture, grinding metal, whatever, but on a tissue covered wing, I'd be nervous.

Tools

Here's an even cheaper buffer:
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=364063&e_categoryid=97&e_pcodeid=512C

Brad,

You already have that buffer in your Mikita. Just find a different size pad for it. There is a tool shoop on Jupiter road just before LBJ that probably has something like that. Otherwise you are buying another two handed tool likie you already have.

You could save your pennies and buy the Central Pneumatic buffer I bought for about 100 bones. It is worth every penny. I tried to turn a speed sander into a buffer by reducing the rate and it worked ok. Then I tried using a DA Sander with a hookit rig on it to buff with, so-so at best. Both of these were attempts to save money. Then I just bit the bullet and bought the right tool for the job. Should have done it long ago because it makes it pretty easy. This tool is juts over 1 pound and spins 2500rpms and is easily used with one hand while the other is used to steady the plane.

It always pays in the long run to buy the right tool for the job.

http://www.all-tool.com/Misc_Items_BY_MANUFACTURER/C/C/c_42.htm

Model is CP7201P. You can actually search for it on the net just by typing in the model number.

>Brad,
>
>You already have that buffer in your Mikita. Just find a
>different size pad for it. There is a tool shoop on Jupiter
>road just before LBJ that probably has something like that.
>Otherwise you are buying another two handed tool likie you
>already have.
>
>You could save your pennies and buy the Central Pneumatic
>buffer I bought for about 100 bones. It is worth every
>penny. I tried to turn a speed sander into a buffer by
>reducing the rate and it worked ok. Then I tried using a DA
>Sander with a hookit rig on it to buff with, so-so at best.
>Both of these were attempts to save money. Then I just bit
>the bullet and bought the right tool for the job. Should
>have done it long ago because it makes it pretty easy. This
>tool is juts over 1 pound and spins 2500rpms and is easily
>used with one hand while the other is used to steady the
>plane.
>
>It always pays in the long run to buy the right tool for the
>job.
>
>http://www.all-tool.com/Misc_Items_BY_MANUFACTURER/C/C/c_42.htm
>
>Model is CP7201P. You can actually search for it on the net
>just by typing in the model number.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=2423

And Free Shipping

>It always pays in the long run to buy the right tool for the
>job.
>
>http://www.all-tool.com/Misc_Items_BY_MANUFACTURER/C/C/c_42.htm
>
>Model is CP7201P. You can actually search for it on the net
>just by typing in the model number.

That thing is very cool. I used it on the Mr. Hyde before I went to the Nats. I would however, like to find an electric version. Maybe someday...

LAST EDITED ON Oct-06-03 AT 12:39 PM (CDT)
 
Electric version would be great. The air one just runs the compressor all the time.

These are ones I looked at buying but I went with the air tool.

http://wenproducts.com/buffers_polishers_4001.X.asp?m=p

http://wenproducts.com/buffers_polishers_4000.asp?m=p

Not to bad a price for sure if it works.

I dont know what the difference is between the two. I would sure like a review if anyone has tried one of these. I just dont know how well you can buff with random orbital. Any input would be great.

Thanks

>Electric version would be great. The air one just runs the
>compressor all the time.
>
>These are ones I looked at buying but I went with the air
>tool.
>
>http://wenproducts.com/buffers_polishers_4001.X.asp?m=p
>
>http://wenproducts.com/buffers_polishers_4000.asp?m=p
>
>Not to bad a price for sure if it works.
>
>I dont know what the difference is between the two. I would
>sure like a review if anyone has tried one of these. I just
>dont know how well you can buff with random orbital. Any
>input would be great.
>
>Thanks

The random orbit doesn't leave swirl marks and should be better for our purposes (or even if used on your car. The bigger ones work better on the car, however.

The difference between the two appears to be the "soft touch" body. Like Charmin, it is squeezably soft and gives less hand fatigue.

I have been in the automotive painting industry for a lil over 30 years and never have had any luck with orbiting polishers at all.
As far as swirl marks nothing beats a good old hand rubbed finish with a good swirl mark remover. The polisher that D Moon linked to is a good product to use i use one for spot polishing nibs in my clear coat so i dont have to use a full size electric buffer plus i use a da sander to sand the nibs out with 1500 or finer stick on paper that you sand without using water or any other fluid if i still need to get it flater i use a paint stick with wet/dry paper after that but not using any corser than 1500 but 2000 or finer is the best way to go.

best of luck
steve