Starting to build a Brodak Nobler

I'll soon be starting my Brodak Nobler and have
a couple of questions for the forum.

1. What are your views on making the inboard and outboard
wings equal in span (as opposed to the longer outboard wing)?
2. How to achieve adjustable controls considering the narrow
tail section and unlikely access to the elevator horn.
3. Is a 4" bellcrank the right way to go?
4. Your views on power plant - I'm thinking Brodak .40 rignt now.

Roger:
I would suggest that you build the thing as designed, especially regarding the offset panels. The design is currently OTS legal, and would not be if you equalize the panels. I seriously doubt that a Nobler modified that way would fly significantly better anyhow?
Try one of the Tom Morris adjusters on your flap to elevator pushrod....it takes very little excess room and works very well.
The B-40 is an ideal power plant for this piece. I have seen a bunch of these airplanes fly, and they all seem to be great flyers....... even though you may not completely agree with some of the concepts that GMA espoused.

See Ya

Thanks Peabody!
"adjusters on your flap to elevator pushrod", I do plan on
having Tom Morris supply the control system. Is the adjuster
you refer to like a turnbuckle to adjust pushrod length or just
the adjustability one gains from a threaded insert and ball
link. I don't think I can use an adjustable elevator horn due
to the narrow tail.

>Roger:
>I would suggest that you build the thing as designed,
>especially regarding the offset panels. The design is
>currently OTS legal, and would not be if you equalize the
>panels. I seriously doubt that a Nobler modified that way
>would fly significantly better anyhow?

I wouldn't bet on that - every one that I have seen hinges significantly, as would be expected. Ted's was growing a very large wart on the outboard flap before it's run-in with the car.

That's not a particularly good reason to change it, since it's definitely illegal for OTS and a sure loss of fidelity points for Classic.
Brett

Sooo...if I want to fly it in OTS, I need to
preserve the original design. Otherwise, if I
want to avoid hinging, equalize the wings.
Peabody and further comments on the 'adjuster'?

Thanks Brett, e-mail is the great equalizer...it
is very cool to be in touch with you guys so
easily and I appreciate the benefit of your experience.

Roger, Tom's web site mentions the adjuster sort of obliquely.

http://www.tomsbuildingservice.biz/

But it is better shown in the printed catalog. Yes it is a turnbuckle of sorts. It is built into a CF pushrod and adjusts pushrod length with the turn of a nut.

>Sooo...if I want to fly it in OTS, I need to
>preserve the original design. Otherwise, if I
>want to avoid hinging, equalize the wings.
>Peabody and further comments on the 'adjuster'?

I would suggest that you build it "as is" and then if the hinging really effects you, add a "wart" to the outboard flap. It really won't hurt anything all that much until you get really competitve in Classic or Advanced.

Roger:
Tom Morris’s control system with a 4" bell crank is a great way to go. Tom has an adjustable elevator horn and a special nut that would work on your elevator. Bob Hunt used this on his Caprice and put a slot the length of the control horn and just wide enough to get a 3/32 Allen wrench threw it under the stab. Then he just put a strip of tape over it.
Below are some pictures and also the shapes of the Horns Tom has. You can get these in 3/32 and 1/8. I would recommend 1/8 for the flaps and 3/32 for the elevator.