Got One at last! Bambi rules.

I finally, after 40 years, got a Bambi .009 diesel! Almost had one in my clutches in college, but the #$%@!!! LHS dealer sold it, although I had special ordered it. Offered to put the $ up front for another one, but he wouldn't do it. Every one I have seen since was out of sight $wise. Got one at a price I could afford at the last Collecto.

Anyway, the crankcase was too long, the crankshaft too tight, and thre were some burrs or tight spots. But all of those are fixed now. The engine has a Steel bushing for the shaft. Never saw that before! Lapped it in with 1200 grit, then polished the crank with 1500 grit paper and oil. Slick as Sn** now.

The next question is what prop to try on it. My first guess is the 4.5 x 2.5 C*x prop for the .020. Anyone out there with experience on diesels this small?

I figure to take my standard diesel fuel and add some starter fluid and oil to it to make a small engine mix. What do you think Tony? Bare? Somebody?

Oh, yes, I plan to put it in one of those new, replica Speede-Bilt P-51s. Probably 12 to 15 ft lines.

Snot, just had to check that.

Do you have a photo of said Bambi .009? I'd like to see this motor. And congrats on your aquirement.

Hmmm. The only Bambi I ever knew worked as a topless go go girl in Memphis. She ran on Scotch, not Diesel. Ha

>I finally, after 40 years, got a Bambi .009 diesel! I plan to put it in one of
>those new, replica Speedee-Bilt P-51s. Probably 12 to 15 ft lines.

That almost-thrown away bit at the end caught my attention. During 1948-1949 or so, I built at least a half dozen of the earliest of the Monogram kits, all but one in the smaller size, and all were models of one or another type of private high wing light plane, such as a Cub, Monocoupe, Luscombe, etc.

I'd love to have a replica of one of those! Who is making them now?

.
Kiwi

Thought that might get some attention!

Ron Anderson at [email protected] makes beautiful replica kits. The wood isn't pre-colored, but it is laser cut! The plastic parts are cast resin replicas of the originals.

He even is now making some new planes like the PT-19, and, I think, a Spitfire.

Larry,

This is a case of "good news" being best kept to yourself.

Do you want everybody, not just me, to know you're a nut?

Jealousy doesn't become you, Sir Dirt!

Larry,
I too have wanted one of those since the 50's (year, not age ).
From what I've read, some were hard to start (for a diesel). I would suggest going up to the .020 size prop since it is a diesel and not the extremely high revving Tee Dee .010.
Good luck with it!

I remember the gang around the counter at Joe's Hobby Shop in Detroit in '56 or so looking the Bambi over. Never got one myself but Dad picked one up somewhere along the way. I don't know that he's ever run it, but it sure is a cute little guy.

Here is a photo. That "log" on the front of the engine is a 6x3 prop.

Ain't it cute!

I always loved the little mounting lugs with only 2 mounting holes. With my clumsy meathooks I'm have a hard time adjusting the needle or contra-piston without stopping it with a knuckle.

Larry, would you say Cox .010 or .020 for a Speedee Bilt?
I did a P40 Spde. Blt. 50 years ago, saw one at a Collecto change hands before I could get to the seller! Was that W.S. 16"? Still remember the carved-and-routed wing halves, truly unique.
Mike

> I did a P40 Spde. Blt. 50 years ago, saw one at a Collecto change hands before
>I could get to the seller! Was that W.S. 16"? Still remember the carved-and-
>routed wing halves, truly unique.

The early ones I built were mostly about 11-12" spans, at 39 - 49 cents each, I think, maybe less. I kinda think that the ink coloring might've come along later, and may have been in response to the "Jigtime" kits' use of color? But there was also a larger size that was priced at 79 cents initially, it seems to me. Bigger spans on those.

.
Kiwi

Wow

So tell me, do you want me to get a collection going so you can buy a REAL engine?

Don't suppose you know where there are anymore at a cheap price, that one has got to be the cutest. I guess PAW makes a fairly small unit, don't think it's that small though. To think it would spin a prop that dwarfs it. Can't see how two engine mounting screws could hold the engine in place with that much wood.

Love the red anodized head. Recently have seen a couple of .003 cid (.05 cc) diesels on Ebay that were jewels of machining. Both were limited production engines and went well over $100. Wonder if a prop for the cox.010 would be too big. For now I think I'll stick with the larger engines, at least I can see them if I drop them.

Beautiful replica Bambis available from Dave Banks here in England, price £58 (around $95). Better than the originals. His No. (in England) is 020 8205 8809. Address 46, Queensbury Rd., Kingsbury, London NW9 8LT.
The originals were supplied with a 4" aluminium prop, usually twisted to about 2" pitch.

Wow Ian,

You just gave me something else to save for!

So who made the original ones? The Bambi company? It does look very English.

An old book from the .60s mentioned an engine called the Dragonfly, which was even tinier.

The Bambi original was made by Davies Charlton, and the quality really isn't all that hot. I had to modify mine to allow it to turn over, as the drive washer was grinding on the crankcase. I have not gotten it to do more than pop, yet, but I have hopes!

The replica Speedee-Bilt models have the routed-out wing we all knew and loved, and are authentic in every detail, right down to the original instruction sheets. Beautiful work. And some new designs, notably a just-released Beechcraft Bonanza V-tail.

I am sure a Tee Dee .010 will fly the models nicely, and you probably could even RC one with modern equipment. A PeeWee .020 would work well too. Unless you set up a class for racing, I think a Tee Dee .020 would be too much!

Prior to 1959, (I know because it was in our old house) I had a Dragonfly. They were made in 0.1 and 0.2cc sizes. Like the Bambi, they had an aluminium prop, but it was properly "carved from solid" to an airfoil section. They were chiefly rear disk induction. Mine ran beautifully, until a crash broke the venturi. They were sold through the Henry J. Nicholls shop at 308 Holloway Rd., (which has just been re-opened by Richard Harris). I took it to 308 for repair, and after a long time they eventually lost it, and replaced it with a front intake version. This would never run, and was eventually sold to a collector. Mike Crisp here in England made a small batch of repros about a year ago.

Really interested in these replica Speedee-Bilt kits but have had no luck reaching Ron Anderson at the Address that was posted [email protected] -- is this the correct address? -- is there another way that he can be reached? Also tried to contact Larry Renger for the same info but didn't have any luck reaching him either.

Thanks,
Paul

I've got a DC Ltd. (049?) that needs a needle valve assy. Does anyone know where I can buy one? It's got a real nice snap starter that looks like it will actually work. It looks like it is pretty well made.

Right, I blew the address. Try [email protected] I threw in an extra "a" in the address last time.

Sorry about that.

>Beautiful replica Bambis available from Dave Banks here in
>England, price £58 (around $95). Better than the originals.
>His No. (in England) is 020 8205 8809. Address 46,
>Queensbury Rd., Kingsbury, London NW9 8LT.
> The originals were supplied with a 4" aluminium prop,
>usually twisted to about 2" pitch.

Ian has been too modest. He makes a beautiful micro replica of the E.D Bee. admittly an older design it still is a neat motor and around the 010 class. Dennis

Dennis, oops. And greatful thanks for your kind words. However, modesty dictates. The half cc miniature of the original 1cc E.D. Bee is another of Dave Banks' creations. I don't have his full list to hand, but will get it and post it here if that's o.k. I have virtually all of Dave's engines.
I have about 20 engines in my range, including two miniatures. These are half size, i.e. 1/4cc, of the original 1/2cc E.D 0.46, and half size i.e. 1/4cc, of the original 1/2cc Frog 50, which I call Tadpole. The range goes up to the Rustler-Merco ABC 61 Stunt. Can e-m details if interested.

>I finally, after 40 years, got a Bambi .009 diesel! Almost
>had one in my clutches in college, but the #$%@!!! LHS
>dealer sold it, although I had special ordered it. Offered
>to put the $ up front for another one, but he wouldn't do
>it. Every one I have seen since was out of sight $wise.
>Got one at a price I could afford at the last Collecto.

>The next question is what prop to try on it. My first guess
>is the 4.5 x 2.5 C*x prop for the .020. Anyone out there
>with experience on diesels this small?
>
>I figure to take my standard diesel fuel and add some
>starter fluid and oil to it to make a small engine mix.
>What do you think Tony? Bare? Somebody?

Congrats Larry.....You're on the right track concerning prop and fuel
...try boosting the Ether content(of the fuel I gave You)
from 35% to 39%...or contact Al Heinrich, He'll brew up an eensy-
beensy engine diesel batch for You...I believe he uses 40% Ether
and 22-25% Castor in that formula. You're also right about the
quality of the D.C. engines. although the Dart runs very well...
maybe because it was mfgr'd by Albon prior to D.C. If you do
talk to Al Heinrich, ask him about his retuning method that he
uses on D.C. Spitfires...they are true Dogs performance-wise
but he retimes the crank port and they come back from the dead...
My thought here about Monogram Speedi-Bilts; lets go for it and have
Speedi-Bilt Races...or Musciano somethings...or?? I flew a Speedi-
B. Boeing Kaydet with a Baby Spitfire crammed into the nose in the
early Fifties...It went around in circles...what more can I say?
Tony

Hi, DM - I dug this little gem out of my accumulation of stuff. Since you're into small engines, I thought you might know something about it. All I can say is I've tried every Diesel trick I know and I have yet to get it to run. I've had it for around six years and it is (supposedly) the last of a run of 50. Maybe he stopped making them because they don't like to run?
It's even too light to use for outboard weight!

Bob Z

Hello, Ian.
The engine has the feel of a watch (maybe I should just put it on my wrist). It turns over smoothly, the compression is excellent and the contra piston feels silky-smooth. After attempting to start it, there was no evidence of fuel coming out from the ajusting screw, indicating a good contra piston seal.
Regarding correctness of the timing, I can't say as I've not disassembled it. From what I can see looking into the intake, however, it is not reverse rotation.
It will not even run on a prime - it just pops. I tried different fuels including Dr Diesel and Red Max Diesel. Also, a number of props hoping that the right inertia would get it going. NOTHING!
By the way, I tried the fuels in some of my other diesels and they ran perfectly. I did not custom-mix any.
I plan on speaking to Eric Clutton in the near future - he may have some suggestions.
Also, I welcome any more suggestions you may have.
Bob Z

Bob, interesting how threads get hijacked! However, sounds most intriguing. First reaction, like all engine enthusiasts, is a desire to have a go at starting it myself! Not feasible. I said it looked a quality item, it now sounds like one as well. With all the fits you describe, a diesel MUST at least fire on a prime, providing compression setting is about right. It sounds as if you are just about getting this. With unknown engine I usually screw down comp until I feel the piston touching the contra when I turn the engine over, then back off 1 turn. I think you are going to have to look inside. Check that the transfers/(intakes) do actually open and give free passage from the bottom half of the engine to the top. My usual technique is to get the engine firing out a prime, then with the crank port closed, fill the venturi full of fuel and suck it into the engine, prime, and flick again. Usually this requires the comp to be adjusted a bit, (increased for the first firing, then backed off as it gets a little warmer) but it then runs out the prime and the fuel in the c/case. Then repeat, progressively opening the needle until the engine continues to run. There has got to be SOME reason why it will not run. What is the porting? I had a couple of EGA 0.5cc engines recently in v. good condition. These have Cox style porting, two exhausts and two transfers, but just square cut edges to the ports with no attempt at gas flow to angle the incoming mixture upwards. These would not run, only give a few pops like you describe.
Good luck, let us know if you have anything to report.

Reading reply 32 reminds me of something I should have said concerning priming. Tony G is absolutely right, don't overprime. The way to avoid this is close the exhaust port by bringing the piston up to the top of the port, and prime against the side of the piston. This will automatically measure the prime for you, the residual fuel against the side of the piston will be a suitable amount. I find it best to follow the order in my no.31, as it kind of back-checks that things work in the necessary order. Do the prime first as then you will know that the piston/cylinder assembly actually works and will fire out fuel if it is present. You can then check that fuel gets from the bottom half of the engine to the top by introducing fuel into the lower c/case, and if all is well the engine will fire for a lot longer than it does on the prime alone. If you go straight to introducing fuel into the bottom half of the c/case and don't have any luck, you won't know if failure is due to p/c fault or failure of the fuel to get from the bottom to the top of the engine. I suspect Bob Z may know this already, but if it's useful to anyone no harm done.

>Hello, Ian.
>The engine has the feel of a watch (maybe I should just put
>it on my wrist). It turns over smoothly, the compression is
>excellent and the contra piston feels silky-smooth. After
>attempting to start it, there was no evidence of fuel coming
>out from the ajusting screw, indicating a good contra piston
>seal.
>
>It will not even run on a prime - it just pops. I tried
>different fuels including Dr Diesel and Red Max Diesel.
>Also, a number of props hoping that the right inertia would
>get it going. NOTHING!
>By the way, I tried the fuels in some of my other diesels
>and they ran perfectly. I did not custom-mix any.
>Also, I welcome any more suggestions you may have.
>Bob Z

Hi Bob, Tony G here...I"m guessing here, But I'll bet you're
flooding it..or it's flooding itself...An engine this small requires
such a tiny amount of atomized fuel that it is unbelievable...
I would be very careful with the amount of prime used in the cylinder
and choke only to get the fuel up to the spraybar...I'm sure you're
being cautious about this, It's easy to overdo it ...I've got some
small displacement diesels, and I have often flooded them even though
I was trying to prevent it. I have almost exclusively used diesel
powered models for the last 10-12 years. I also think the engine
will have a very narrow range of prop size that it can tolerate.
I'd start with a Cox .010 prop and cut it down to 3" dia...
I also think your fuel is OK ...Could You tell us what the percent
of ether you are using? You might need to go to a 45-50% ether mix.
I really can't give more advice, without being with you as you try
starting your engine...As a scenario: I would start by fueling..
NOT PRIMING.. but choking to the venuri , and flipping the prop 15
times ..if no pop then choke ONCE after ensuring the fuel level is
already at the venturi..then flipping 15 times again..If it starts
popping, then keep flipping until it no longer pops..choke once again
...see I forgot to mention the compression screw....that requires
feel for appropriate compression level...I again assume You have that
experience...hopefully It will pop then bark and then then break into
short bursts that become more frequent and sustained..it will run
after the cylinder fit improves...Yes,I'm a bit optmistic here...
Sorry for taking too much space in this thread..Bob, just email me
for further Diesel B/S...I don't mind a bit, when it concerns Diesel
engines...Good Luck with your engine... Tony G

>Something I've had work for me with first time startup of
>small engines is to mount them with the cylinder horizontal,
>this minimizes flooding as long as the exhaust port is
>pointed down. In the case of opposed exhaust ports it makes
>it easy to blow out a flood too.
>
>Just a thought.
>
>Randy Ryan
>AMA 8500
>SAM 36
>I fly 'em all and love it!

Sounds like excellent advice to me...
Tony