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Norvel/AME 061.

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 11 of 11 known posts recovered · the forum listed 17 replies

Phil Juarez · Oct 14, 2003 03:11 PM

#3 source
Bill,

You may also want to try the MP Jet .061
I am using one on a 1/2 A version of the
Stiletto 660. You won't need an electric
starter with this engine just prime, flip,
and fly.

Even though my Stiletto is overweight
(15 oz.)with full fuselage and wing span at 39"
the MP Jet seems to pull it just fine.

I'm using a uniflow tank with Muffler pressure
Grish 7x2 prop cut down to 6 5/8" and launching
at about 14,500 rpm lap times in the 4.8-4.9 range
on 45 ft. .008 solids, this setup has been working
well for me.

I'm curious if others are having similar success?


Phil Juarez

wingwalk · Oct 14, 2003 06:10 PM

#5 source
Hey Phil, would you have plans for that 1/2A Stiletto? Would love to build one. Thanks,

Kirk Wicker
www.wingwalk.com

F4FGuy · Oct 14, 2003 05:11 PM

#4 source
Ron B.
F4Fguy

Bill:

In our kids "Summer Academy"we've used a hundred plus of the "Big Mig" variety Norvels.They all run just fine with open vents.Muffler pressure seems to keep them a little steadier from full to empty,but is certainly not a requirement.The earlier ,nickel plated ones seem to me to be a little more consistent and certainly need a LOT less break-in time,like ten minutes vs a gallon of fuel!(probably an exageration,but it was a long time).Also the earlier engines would reliably hand start from the gitgo,whereas the anodized ones never got to that point while we were working with them.We also found that the anodized ones had a great predeliction to overheat,regardless of what prop was on them,or what fuel we used.
The AMEs are much more highly tuned than the Big Migs,i.e.more radical shaft and port timing,higher compression,and a larger carb/venturi.It consequently has very little in the way of suction ,hence the need for pressurizing the fuel feed.In this instance you may actually be better off with the RC version.With the air bleed plugged,you can close the throttle part way to increase fuel draw,simulating a smaller venturi.This may also allow you to run a bigger diameter prop at lower RPM,which is going to give more usable thrust at "stunt"speeds.

Ron B.

mkedave · Oct 14, 2003 07:30 PM

#9 source
dude add some nitro, the little motors need it.

I could get a cox black widdow to run on FAI fuel, but it was hard to start, and flamed out for no reason. Go to at least 10%, 15 0r 20 % is better.

Dave

F4FGuy · Oct 16, 2003 10:33 AM

#17 source
>dude add some nitro, the little motors need it.
>
>I could get a cox black widdow to run on FAI fuel, but it
>was hard to start, and flamed out for no reason. Go to at
>least 10%, 15 0r 20 % is better.
>
>Dave

Ron B.
F4Fguy

Dude;a Cox of any kind is a totally different animal than a Norvel,AME or Big mig.While the Norvels will run faster with 25% and a 5 3/4"D - 2 1/2" or 3"P,neither is necessary or even desireable for stunt.They run just fine on 5%(at least all the ones in my experience,see my post above)they do need plenty of oil,a minimum of 22%(and 25% is better).Castor doesn't seem to matter.On the 5% with one gasket they will happily pull a 6" or even 6 1/2"D - 3"or4"P at over 15000.I feel certain that if you could drop the sleeve a little,and (maybe) decrease the blowdown somewhat, you could probably pull a 7" prop.
All the ones we flew were on 45' .008s.the only problem we encountered was too fast a lap time,at least for precision flying.Line tension was never a problem.
Incidentally,due to the rather unreliable muffler mounting system,most of them ended up running open face, which, other than the noise, didn't seem to make much difference.
The little "Spit" is what the kids were flying.

Ron B.

Alan Hahn · Oct 14, 2003 08:02 PM

#10 source
You should have no problem with your Big Mig, so here is my "stupid" question. Can you blow through a piece of fuel tubing hooked onto the spraybar nipple? Open the needle until you can hear air blowing through. It almost sounds like the passage is blocked.

CLiner · Oct 14, 2003 08:25 PM

#11 source
>Should I swap it back in on a "regular" Norvel 061?
>It is for use in a "Little Legends" USA-1.
>Bill

Bill,
>Simple answer:
Yes, swap for a Big Mig or a Startup - Norvel .061.
I had an AME on the 1/2A Little Legend Stiletto, could not maintain engine run without pressure (they are designed to run with pressurized fuel system).
Wont be able to get up to the contest this weekend, sorry.
Roger V.
>

Iskandar Taib · Oct 14, 2003 09:51 PM

#12 source
AMEs are meant for high power. Therefore (as per Combat practice) they have a very large venturi, and will not draw fuel unless it's under pressure.

Yeah, get the Bigmig. It's optimized for lower RPM, will draw fuel, and starts easier to boot. It still has plenty of power for sport flying.

Bill Little · Oct 14, 2003 10:17 PM

edited#14 source
Thanks, Roger!
I believe I will swap the AME for a big mig.
Wish you could make it up here.
Bill


Dont worry about the mule going blind 'til you get the cart loaded!

Currell · Oct 14, 2003 10:45 PM

#16 source
The Norvel BigMigs, once broken in, are really nice. We had one on a SkyBaby, running muffler pressure. When the needle is really dialed in correctly, the motor pulls with authority, and sounds great. Currell

Iskandar Taib · Oct 14, 2003 10:26 PM

#15 source
Yeah, it's got plenty of power for that (especially the .061). I think it's a matter of balancing line length and airplane size to get something optimum.

My old approach to "Stunt" was a Tee Dee on a profile fed by a bladder. I just mounted the bladder externally, stretching it from a peg in the front to a peg in the rear using a rubber band. Cheap and effective. Problem with this set up was, in a crash, the rubber band and bladder added to the damage by pulling the two ends of the fuselage together!

The Bigmig .061 has a lot more power than a Tee Dee. Quite a few people even use it as a cheap practice engine for 1/2-A Combat.