Gieseke Nobler

Maybe I am taking on too much at once but a friend has given me a set of "Gieseke Nobler" plans from a Topflite kit so I would appreciate any suggestions, I am planning on putting an OS MAX H40S motor in it (Frank Bowman is cleaning and checking it now)that I got from Doug Blake's wife Cynthia when he died in the mid 70's when I still lived in England.

Anyway any comments on the power plant and any suggestions on building this Nobler I sure could do with.......... come on guy's you havn't let me down yet,you have been a great source of advice and help

I want all of you to know I have really appreciated and used your comments and suggestions, one of these weekends I must get to Tulsa and visit the Glue Dobbers site and visit with DeHill and other old friends I know there

By to much I mean I am building the Shark45 at the same time mentioned in previous posts

Hi Richard. The Top Flite version of the Gieseke Nobler had a formed turtle deck of 1/8" sheet balsa. You might want to try your hand at molding the turtle deck, save some weight and learn or relearn a neat skill. Just use hot water, no additives, for wetting the balsa.

Actually I had planned on planking the rounded portions with 1/8" X 3/16 wide balsa for the fuselage, but always like to try something new, having never rolled balsa I think I might just give it a try I presume you are talking roll it first before attaching it

I built an APS plans service Sirotkin "Spacehound" quite some years ago that called for alot of block on the fuselage and planked it instead it came out alot lighter than a fellow club member's one that used hollowed out block

Shoot all my stunt model flying was back in the 60's and 70's, I am originally from England and used to fly at Cranfield park and Charville lane in Hayes Middlesex and occasionally Horsenden hill Perivale.(for all you English flyers)

LAST EDITED ON Oct-25-03 AT 07:33 PM (CDT)
 
You will like the 40H very much. My set up is as follows:

- Thunderbolt idle bar plug.

- 5/25 fuel. Half Klotz, half castor. It is a ringed motor so all castor may foul the ring.

- APC 11.5X4 prop.

- Leonard Neuman Derlin Venturi and ST NVA.

Very powerful motor and will break very smoothly.

I've scratchbuilt a Gieseke Nobler from the Tom Dixon plans and love it. It is a great flying little plane. Mine has a Box stock Fox 35 turning a Top Flite Super M 10x5 running plain old Fox Superfuel. I used carved blocks for the top and bottom and came out at 38.7 ounces finished.
Be aware that ground clearence may be an issue if you put a big motor in it. I am running 2 1/4" lectra light wheels on mine and I still don't have tons of ground clearence with the 10" prop. If you need 11" or more prop you may want to make the gear longer than shown on the plans, and plan to add some tailweight to take care of the heavier motor. A 1/2" shaft extension will help in the balance department and allow you to carve a better looking cowling. Fuel tanks over 4.5 OZ may be a tight squeeze, too. I cheated on mine and made the nose section wide enough to accomodate a GRW 2" wide tank, the original plans are probably too narrow for a stock 2 inch tank.
Hope that helps, build it and enjoy it, it should be great!

thanks for the info Steve, unfortunately I dont have a usable for stunt Fox 35 (all of mine are set up for combat) but have heard comments that the model was slightly underpowered with Fox35 at least using the O.S. I can make the fuselage sides without cutting the holes in the sides and help with tailwieght that way, actually I think the O.S.40s may give me a better 2-4-2 break but then I don't know for sure, and as far as the fuselage goes I expect to have to make it a little wider anyway.

thanks

I had a G Nobler with a OS H40. I had more power than I knew what to do with. Great engine - one of my all time favorites.

Richard - I have heard from a number of people including one world class flyer that the Max-H-S is an excellent engine. I believe Bob Hunt used one in a Thunderchief or something of that ilk. One fellow in this area is using the R/C version converted to C/L and it's fine.
Regarding Steve's Fox .35 - As far as I'm concerned, it is the best running one I've ever heard - period. That includes many modified versions. At our contest, it went through some substantial wind better than any other plane in his class.
Bob Z

I am sorry if I gave the impression that I knew for certain the Fox35 was not powerful enough, I was just going by what the friend of mine said that gave me the plans maybe I should check into this alittle more because I do believe the Nobler was designed for a Fox35, don't forget though the wind blows real hard in Oklahoma alot of the time

as it happens this will be the first time I would have used the OS Max h40s and I am not sure what prop to use yet

Richard,

If you have a 1 in a hundred Fox .35 go with it. But the plane needs to be very light 38-42 ounces for this engine / plane combination to perform properly. I have been flying the Max .40-H for the past three years and it is one great engine. In OKC I use an 11-4 prop in Pampa TX, 11-5. Also I have tried lots of different fuels and the best I have found is 10/15/8.5 (Nitro/Castor/Synthetic).

All of the engines from that era need the castor for cooling and the synthetic keeps them clean. I run some 10/22 Powermaster through it for a couple of flights about every 15 flights or so just to keep from gumming up but it runs too hot if I use this all the time. I am not trying to start a string on fuels with these comments just giving you the information from my experience. My Hurricane weighs 48 ounces and the Max is plenty of power. I also use uniflow with restricted muffler pressure.

Other issues: It is permissible to widen the fuselage to permit the use of commercially available tanks on the classic designs and this will give you the room necessary for the Max. I would use a 1/2" prop extension just because it will help with the balance and ease of Cowl construction. I use a "Veco" style tank: 1X2X4 which is 4 ounces and have to short fuel in order to not over run in OKC. You also should lenghten the landing gear about 1/2" in order to comfortably use the 11" props. I believe this is also legal for Classic as long as the gear exits from the original point but am not 100% positive about this.

Personal note: I assume that you have located Topping Park and become acquainted with the OKC bunch. I grew up there and flew lots of planes over many years at Topping. Lots of good guys in the area and I am sure they are/would be happy to have you in the group. Good luck with the Nobler project. Hope to meet you next time I am in the City.

John,
Thanks for the info and yes I usually fly at Topping park or at least used to prior to my short lay off from the hobby I had been a member of the Sooner Circle Burners from about 1985 till we literally disbanded the club due to total lack of interest shame really because just around the same time the local council repaved the circles I was there a few weeks ago at a fun fly organised by what I guess is a new club it is a shame really because Topping is a good site, except to my mind the paved circles are too close to the trees and one gets a certain amount of turbulance from the trees,but at least there was some kind of grandfather clause put in affect when Mr Topping donated the site to OKC and therefore OKC cannot destroy it and it can only be used for control line flying.
I do appreciate the input about props etc to use on the OS Max H40S thank you.

As you may have noticed in previous posts I had previously flown C/L combat with Rene' Zeldenthuis, Harold Sprague,Mike Moreland and several others

Richard:
I don't visit this board a lot anymore due to crashed computer but e mail me at [email protected] and we'll make some arrangements to get out and fly.
We usually have a pretty good turnout at Topping park on decent weekend days, or weekday afternoons. No club as yet and really none contemplated though we have been doing two contests or fun flys a year for the last 3 years. The last one was the weakest I am afraid though the others have gone pretty well.
Later
Jim Phillips

I didn't put the fuse cutouts in my scratchbuilt one, either. In my opinion, if you start with contest wood they are not needed and serve mainly for a convienent place to poke a hole in the covering when you are handling the model. If you are scratchbuilding and using the 40H you can also try building the stab/elevator out of sheet and not bother with the built up parts, saving time and effort and adding tailweight as wood instead of lead. I am a bit prejudicial about my Fox, but as Bob Z points out it seems my Fox is a bit stronger than the usual run of the mill Fox. I do know that the plane has never felt down on power or performance in its current setup. I do want to build another Gieseke before too long, maybe with a DS 40 but perhaps with something stronger than that.

Steve - a new shipment of Brodak .40s is on the way - you might check with John. I judged advanced at his 2003 event and every Brodak engine I heard was exceptional.
Bob

>I judged advanced at his 2003 event
>Bob

Hi Bob,
Advanced Classic?? That's what I flew. And Advanced PAMPA.
I had the Argus with the first flight in the morning.
Flew the red Geo Juno in PAMPA.
Had a great time.
Bill