Response to my post:

OK, so after reading through all the threads on how to adjust a handle that was stated in the post to be "Not Adjustable" , I figured out that with all controls being equal throws, engine, wing, and stab c/l straight, etc., that you need to tweak the elevators in the opposite direction of the problem turn. This tweaking is done if the elevator push rod is not adjustable in length.
I am very familiar with adjusting all the "adjustable features" of our *modern* handles, I am interested in what to do if the handle can not be changed. Adjusting with the handle might cover up some trim issues, and if I cannot adjust the handle, then I must adjust the plane. Correct?
TIA
Bill

>OK, so after reading through all the threads on how to
>adjust a handle that was stated in the post to be "Not
>Adjustable" , I figured out that with all controls being
>equal throws, engine, wing, and stab c/l straight, etc.,
>that you need to tweak the elevators in the opposite
>direction of the problem turn. This tweaking is done if the
>elevator push rod is not adjustable in length.
>I am very familiar with adjusting all the "adjustable
>features" of our *modern* handles, I am interested in what
>to do if the handle can not be changed. Adjusting with the
>handle might cover up some trim issues, and if I cannot
>adjust the handle, then I must adjust the plane. Correct?
>TIA
>Bill

I am not convinced that you have this right, Bill. Whenever you are tweaking the elevators, you are also tweaking the flaps since they work together. Assuming that the plane was flying level with 0 deflection of both flap and elevator (with symmetrical airfoils there will always be some slight deflection, but bear with me) and the plane is not turning as tightly in the "up" direction, if you now tweak the flap down without touching the flap, the net result is that, to fly level, you are going to have to give some "up" to the elvator resulting in some "down" to the flaps, just to fly level. If you don't adjust line length, you will end up giving the handle some "up" just to fly level. So you will end up with less hand movement in that direction--not good. If you do adjust line length to compensate for level flight, you will restore some of the up elevator, giving some down flap in level flight with a neutral hand setting. Now, however, you will have less movement for "up" and more movement for "down", just the opposite of what you wanted. You will also have more downward deflection of flaps with less up elevator to compensate in the turns. Also not good. I think you need to go the exact opposite direction. Try them both and see.

However....

If you do not have a fully adjustable handle, get one. After all the investments you make in planes and engines and fuel and countless (we dont even want to count them) hours spent on the building bench, doesn't it make sense to spend another $25 for an adjustable handle that enables you to get full control of your flying and will last a lifetime?

Spend the money. Get an adjustable handle. But the needed adjustments to get equal turn are still to be found at the airplane, not at the handle.

Thanks, Leonard!
I do have several adjustable handles, but I am very curious as to how much better we can trim an airplane if we start out with no adjustable features at the handle. It is really just an exercise I want to use over the winter to trim my ships that I plan to use next contest season. If I can get tracking, equal turns, etc., without the *handle*, then I can move on to the finer *feel* part of trimmimg with the handle adjustments.
Does this make sense?
Anyone else?
Bill

>Thanks, Leonard!
>I do have several adjustable handles, but I am very curious
>as to how much better we can trim an airplane if we start
>out with no adjustable features at the handle. It is really
>just an exercise I want to use over the winter to trim my
>ships that I plan to use next contest season. If I can get
>tracking, equal turns, etc., without the *handle*, then I
>can move on to the finer *feel* part of trimmimg with the
>handle adjustments.

You indeed should make all adjustments to get equal turning and equal tracking at the plane, not the handle. The handle adjustments are to adjust for sensitivity (spacing) and neutral (line length). You should make your line length accurate enough that just minimal adjustment for neutral needs to be made at the handle. But these things do work together.

There isn't anything to do about line spacing, but judicious use of different length clips at both ends of the lines can make you end up with almost perfect neutral. If worst comes to worst, you can always re-bind one end of the lines to give you the correct adjustment.

I have one handle with no adjustements, and have used two or more clips on the handle end to let me get enough differetial. If the clips are of proper strength, there is no actual penalty to using this technique.

Yeah, I got this Tom Morris handle and with the little space I have on it to adjust the lines plus a smaller or bigger clip I can put it were I want.

Ted's handle is a source of lusful thoughts for me, but I'mwaiting to see if he won't take a CD as part of the payment.

Is Ted reading this post?

God bless you!

In Christ,

>There isn't anything to do about line spacing, but judicious
>use of different length clips at both ends of the lines can
>make you end up with almost perfect neutral. If worst comes
>to worst, you can always re-bind one end of the lines to
>give you the correct adjustment.
>
>I have one handle with no adjustements, and have used two or
>more clips on the handle end to let me get enough
>differetial. If the clips are of proper strength, there is
>no actual penalty to using this technique.

It is not line length that I am talking about, but line spacing. And, yes, you do have to trim the plane at the plane, but unless you have infinite adjustment in flap movement and elevator movement at the plane, then it is easier to make these adjustments at the handle. Basically you adjust for neutral and sensitivity at the handle (and overhang) and make the rest of the adjustments at the plane. Once you get the feel for this, you fill find that as little as 1/32 of an inch in line spacing makes a difference.