By Lou Wollard?
I feel horrible that I can't be sure of the tuner, but do any of you have any knowledge of this motor?
If so, what would be a good ship for it? One that qualifies in "Classic" if possible.
Thanks.
Silver Fox BB.40?
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 14 of 14 known posts recovered
Steve Helmick · Mar 12, 2004 10:50 PM
#1 sourceLAST EDITED ON Mar-12-04 AT 10:50 PM (CDT)
Exactly right on the Silver Foxx .40, Lou Woolard tuned. John Leidle has flown one of these for years in a Kari "Nakke". A Southwick Skylark or Palmer's T-Bird II or Hurricane would also be good matches. Brodak Cardinal, for a Pukey Profile. Steve
Exactly right on the Silver Foxx .40, Lou Woolard tuned. John Leidle has flown one of these for years in a Kari "Nakke". A Southwick Skylark or Palmer's T-Bird II or Hurricane would also be good matches. Brodak Cardinal, for a Pukey Profile. Steve
>Would it be too much for an Oriental?
Pretty heavy for an Oriental, but should have plenty of power. Probably not the best match.
Steve
The older I get, the better I used to fly!
>Would it be too much for an Oriental?
I don't see why it would be.
The Oriental was originally designed around the unmuffled Fox Stunt 35. However, according to Dee Rice, during the Classic era, some were built with shorter noses to accomodate heavier engines. I've flown one with a Max-H 40 and did not feel I had too much engine.
If you are scratch building, you might want to consider shortening the nose .25" to .5" to compensate for the heavier engine. I'll bet it would be a great flyer with a Woolard 40.
One way to find out... 
.
Bob
As a follow-up, with a tongue muffler we are talking 9 1/2 ounces with the Fox 40. It is the same weight, approximately, as our 35 FP with the custom tube muffler. So, although it is more weight than the Fox 35, it is certainly more power by far. We flew the Silver Fox 40 on a 570 square inch platform and a 12 x 5 BY&O prop. I would consider any properly built plane in the 550 to 600 square inch range ideal, and you could certainly go even larger if you keep the weight down. Coincidently, the Oriental is 550 square inches.
Leonard Neumann
Sounds pretty good. I don't build heavy, nor very light. I'd most likely tip the scales somewhat more than a pro builder, but not by a lot.
I have an Oriental still in the box. I guess it may be time to put the shop back together! 
Steve Helmick · Sep 18, 2000 09:49 PM
RE: Silk Covering Techniqueslater removed from the forum#13 source
LAST EDITED ON Sep-18-00 AT 09:50 PM (EST)
It's been years, but I did use the Knox Geletin trick on silk, when I lived at Edwards AFB...very dry, and was worried about dope drying too fast. The Geletin worked very well, and filled the weave very nicly. The only thing is that you can apply the silk with the geletin mix, but keep it off the open bays until you have a coat of dope on it. A couple of coats of dope, and a couple of geletin/water, it should take a light sanding and a few
more coats of dope to get a slick finish. Try steel wool, instead
of sandpaper. The sponge brushes work, but a plain sponge does also. You might also consider "PolySpan", a polyester version of
silkspan, SIG "Koverall", a woven polyester. Both heat shrink but
can be applied with dope, "Stix-it", "Balsarite", etc. There are a lot of alternatives now. I like the heat shrink coverings, but
want to dope it on and paint it. Tough stuff, and good weights.
Steve Helmick
Any last minute thoughts on an ideal fit for this motor?
So far, the Oriental seems to be the winner.
>Any last minute thoughts on an ideal fit for this motor?
>
>So far, the Oriental seems to be the winner.
>
>So far, the Oriental seems to be the winner.
I think that is your choice, Tom. There are a lot of plane choice out there in that size range. What do you want to build. The engine and prop combination will control the lap times. You just need something with enough wing area to support the weight. Then build the plane around the engine for proper balance and you are in.
Leonard Neumann
Some people will actually cut the leading edge and trailing edge to get a butt joint and have no overlap, but that, also, leads to the possibility of the material pulling away and leaving a gap. I, therefore, prefer some overlap. Your comment about tearing the edges works great for making patches. It is like on a rubber powered plane where you wind the motor until it breaks and then back off two turns, when sanding the material, you sand until you go through and then back off on the sanding. (??) OK, so it doesn't work. But when you do sand through--as on the ribs which is the easiest place to sand too much, a patch that has the edges torn will go over it and blend in real well with a couple more coats of dope.
Leonard Neumann
I know this is probably a bone headed question, but what do you mean by spraying (or brushing) from the bottom? I can't quite picture what you mean.
Alan
Have you ever slept in a tent while it was raining outside? Most of the water runs off, but in some places will start to leak. Once the leak starts there seems to be no stopping it. If you spray your covering--silk especially, but it happens to silkspan, too--from the top down, which may seem to be the "normal" way to do it, if any dope soaks through it will "puddle" underneath (inside the wing) and make a large hard spot there that will ruin the cover. If, on the other hand, you hold the plane level, but high and spray up on the wing from the underside, then any drips and sags will form on the outside. These can be wiped off or even sanded off after they are dry.
After you spray one side and let the dope set, you can turn the wing over, raise it high again, and spray the otherside from the bottom up. Same result--any drips or sags will form on the outside of the wing and can, again, be wiped off or sanded if they become dry before you catch them.
Leonard Neumann