Noblarf lead-out how to

LAST EDITED ON Nov-07-03 AT 07:29 PM (CST)
 
When I redid the leadouts on my Nobler ARF, I clipped the end off the original leadout, overlapped the new material by about an inch, and used heat-shrink to bond them together. If you really wanted to go nuts you could use CA too, but I had no problems without.

After prepping both leadouts, I pulled the whole mess through to the center of the wing and, after putting eyelets in the bellcrank holes, made good crimped ends.

BTW, the bellcrank now has a ball-joint attachment to the pushrod. This should last a LONG time, and improves the geometry.

LAST EDITED ON Nov-08-03 AT 01:09 PM (CST)
 
Larry,

You didn't mention what sort of ball link you used, but I never tire of suggesting that people drop by the RC Cars section of the local shop and ask to see the offerings from Associated.

The ball bolts on in the normal way with a 4-40 nut. Pushrod material is easily sourced: 4-40 threaded rod from same shop.

Amongst other applications, the Associated ball links are used on the suspension arms of off-road RC cars. Thus they need be quite strong while offering the least amount of friction possible.

My ARF FSs have Associated ball links at both the 'crank and elevator, gap bridged by a scrap of CF pushrod from Tom Morris. Light, strong, very reliable, and so little friction as to not be noticeable. Good stuff.

Let me know what you think. I have been told to hold your opinions in high regard, although I have never fully believed the stories.

(Insert goofy icon here. And thanks to all those who are giving me grief over same...)

I used the HD 4x40 ball link by Du Bro. I will go look at the RC car stuff asap.

OK, that does it. If I ever buy one of these Noblers, it's going to have the word "Noblarf" added to the wing..

Beat ya to it

I finally did look over the Associated ball joints, and decided that I like the Du-Bro unit better. My reason is that the length of the threaded area connecting to the pushrod is longer. The Associated is more rugged, I think. The LHS guy said that Rocket City units are better than either one for what I want, and he will get some in.

LAST EDITED ON Dec-30-03 AT 07:36 AM (CDT)
 
Larry, you will find, I'm afraid, that the Associated link is indeed more rugged; the Dubro units develop slop rather quickly.

At least, they did on the two 1/4 scale R/C planks I've used them on. Perhaps the loads of a smaller C/L model won't stress them as much; but I don't intend to find out. FWIW, the steering links on my grandson's Associated RC-10GT stadium truck are still serviceable after two years of hard "bashing" (what the car guys refer to as running around the yard and street, as opposed to organized racing). They are a bit loose and could stand replacing, but the tiny amount of slop present is not worth worrying about yet.

While the Associated links are okay, and seem to maintain their fit for quite a while, they aren't nearly as "smooth" (or durable) as a quality link designed for helicopter use; especially one that has been fitted to a specific ball. This is an easy technique, requiring a pair of smooth-jawed pliers and about 30 seconds. It does take a certain "feel" to do it, however, so have some extra links handy...

I have found the links by Miniature Aircraft (the X-Cell folks) to be about the best overall of the various brands I've used. The problem, for a C/L application, is the relatively small (2.2mm) diameter wire they fit. While fine for the short runs of a helo pushrod, they would need some sort of stiffener as mentioned above for a longer application as an elevator pushrod. Again, there is no rocket science involved here; just basic modeling techniques.

P.S.: Your LHS guy is correct regarding Rocket City; but rotsa ruck getting them. Nelson Specialties bought Rocket City out last year, and availability has been spotty, at best, ever since. Also, Rocket City links are uni-directional, allowing you to make half-turn adjustments. Most other brands of link only fit properly in one direction.

I am using the item 497 Swivel Ball Link with entrapped ball, and through bolt. With this system, I can't see how it could possibly get sloppy in a totally clean environment like the inside of a stunter wing. I will keep your comment in mind and look at the linkage from time to time as a result.

Pity about the Rocket City stuff. I guess if I find it, then it is time to stock up!

It appeared that the plastic used was too soft; the links were "egged out" (the hole had become oblong) on the ball.

A timely warning! I was about to put another one in the Jamison I am building. I'll hunt up either the Associated or Rocket City link.

Thanks!

Tom Morris is THE source for Rocket City rod ends. He has some kind of deal worked out with whoever makes them. Here's the link. It's a fair way down the page. Prices are very fair, service excellent. Steve

http://www.tomsbuildingservice.biz/control_system_components.htm