Decisions,decisions

Like the title says. The easy thing to do would be red wings and a yellow fuse like on the box ... Maybe not:)
What is a typical AUW for a Bislob?
Uniflow or regular vented tank?

LAST EDITED ON Nov-08-03 AT 09:55 PM (CST)
 
Scott Riese might give some input, I've read here that he has built and flown these guys. "my" choice would be the copper colored monokote on the wings and black fuselage. Looks like fun flying soon.

Charcoal and pink, without a doubt.

>Charcoal and pink, without a doubt.
I have never been brave enough to use the "Circus" pink monokote. Yet somehow I have two rolls!

Use the pink- it shows up real well against most any background- for both flyer and any spectators.

LAST EDITED ON Nov-08-03 AT 11:25 PM (CST)
 
Bright blue fuselage with yellow wings.

Do a '30s USAAF trim, with silver wings, and a yellow fuse. And period insignia, with the red and white stripes on the rudder.

LAST EDITED ON Nov-08-03 AT 11:52 PM (CST)
 
>Bright blue fuselage with yellow wings.
I have considered that. Sort of a stand way-way-way-off scale Stearman.
A couple of more question for the Bi-slob experts out there.
What length lines are you using?
How are you running the motor? 4 stroking? Rich 2 stroke?
Anyone have pictures of their Bislob?
Pat MacKenzie

Banjock runs a 4-2-4 Fox on his. Does all sorts of strange things.

LAST EDITED ON Nov-09-03 AT 00:55 AM (CST)
 
Check this old thread. There is some tank info and some photos of other 'Slobs. I did a search, typed in "Bi-Slob". This is just one of many. Steve http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dcforum/DCForumID1/5416.html

PS: Maybe Black fuselage with blue wings..."Bruise" color. It's gonna get some owies.

Get yourself a losenge pattern and use all the colors. The old WW1 German 5 color type ought to keep you busy. I did a Quarter Scale Fokker DV11 and hand painted each and every one of the D.. things. Be the first on your block with one like that.
Oh yes Pink,Yellow,Black, and white are the colors of Circus Circus in Los Vegas and quite a few RC Jobs have sported the casinos colors. Oh and by the way Pink is the dominant color.

I was gonna say 'use 2 inch strips of each color alternating' but ya done me quite a few better;-)

LAST EDITED ON Nov-09-03 AT 06:57 AM (CST)
 
Steve,
Thanks for the link. I did a search on "bislob" (no hyphen) and came up pretty empty. I will have to try just "slob".
Pat MacKenzie

Pat,
When we did the Flying Models article one of the things we emphasized was to keep it simple. The tank is just a standard non uniflo, with tubes coming out of the top & bottom. Just solder 5/32" tubes (1/8" I.D.) over the standard tubes for extensions. I plug the bottom overflow for flight, but this might not be necessary .

I supplied John Brodak with the original drawings, but I haven't seen the kit drawings. Did you add the half ribs and vertical stiffeners, or are they in the kit?
Also I have large lightening holes in all my ribs. We keep it light with minimal structure.

Tom N.

LAST EDITED ON Nov-09-03 AT 12:01 PM (CST)
 
Tom,
I added the half ribs, shear webs at the tip and 1/16 x 3/16 vertical stiffeners on each of the half
ribs. I think it added about 4 grams. The half ribs were added mainly for looks. I am still worried
about the tip ribs being bowed in by the covering, so I might add cap strips to the tip ribs.
For the tank I think I will make one with both uniflow and regular venting. Easier to cap the
unused vents than add them later.
My airframe less engine,tank and covering is at 13.5 ounces, so I think the AUW will be about 27 or 28 ounces with the stock Fox muffler. Tail weight to counter the muffler might increase that.

The kit was pretty good. (mini review follows!)

-The wood was light, so some of the 1/8 was a bit die-smashed, but no big deal.
-The 3/16 spar wood was terrible. Some too light, some too hard, all four really badly warped. I
replaced them.
- the two flaps were badly bowed along the hinge line. Since the wood was pretty good I chose to
fix them rather than replace them. I was able to fix them by cutting them in half span-wise and
gluing them back together while holding them straight.
-The 1/32 ply fuselage doublers were "optional" and not included. I felt they would be necessary
since the sides are only 3/32".
-Some details are missing from the plans even though they are on the plans you can see in the
instruction photos. For example there is no drawing of the ply fuselage formers to help with drilling
the holes for the L.G.
-The engine is shown with two of the mounting holes "in air" due to the engine offset. I added a
1/16 x 3/8 ply strip between one of the mounts and the fuse to allow all four holes to be in the
mounts.
-No mention of AUW or line length. Perhaps one of the Bi-slob experts could do a small write-up and send it to Brodak to include in the kit.
Please note that I have only listed the negatives. Overall I was happy with the kit.
Pat MacKenzie

LAST EDITED ON Nov-10-03 AT 02:25 PM (CST)
 
Pat,

Like I said I have not seen the inside of a BiSlob kit. Send me your current address and I'll send you a copy of the original article.

I still think you are too worried and are over building it though. I have used both balsa and Lite ply for the tips, take your choice. Ron Pavloer builds them very light, and even used cardboard for the fuselage!

Tom,
thanks for the offer. I just dug through my collection of magazines and found it.
As for over-building, I only added the half ribs and cap strips at the tips to avoid the "starving dog" look. The fuse doublers were mentioned in the kit and the article. The kit wood was pretty light so I felt the bellcrank mount would have been a bit weak without them.
As far as colours, I went with the USAF pilot training scheme, ala PT-17. I will post some pictures when it is done.
Pat MacKenzie

Pat,
Sounds good. Hope you enjoy your Slob. Once you have it flying we will be able to greet you properly.... "You Slob!"

Built two Slobs, one scratch and one Brodak.
Installed plastic clunk tank configured uni-flow with the plug sticking through the firewall so I could service if necessary.
Found that it runs better with the vent open. I think the clunk tank is the safest for a Slob since the plane will be able to fly with little or no air speed. I run the engine with a fat two cycle and use a prop that will allow hovering. I figure that a lot of wind over the rudder is best especially when it is going over the top in a sloooow wingover.
My Brodak Slob has red on left side of the fuse and blue on the other, Monokote yellow top wing, purple bottom wing, orange flaps and elevator and ugly blue-purple stab.
My first scratch built Slob is all orange and has been rebuilt at least three times.
Have fun,
Dick Antoszewski

EXAMPLE OF PINK AND YELLLOW