Plumbing fuel storagecan

I've noticed lots of guys have gallon fuel cans they pump their fuel out of rather than use a syringe. After cleaning grass off my syringe and out of my syringe more than once, I've decided to try and make several of these so I have one for each type of fuel I use.
My question is two fold: How do you plumb the can? I assume they have one long tube almost to the bottom and a short vent tube.
2) If I solder an empty fuel can, how do I avoid an explosion? Do I fill it with water, which seems it would act as a heat sink and make soldering more difficult?
Thanks for the tips.

--Mitch

LAST EDITED ON Nov-11-03 AT 05:06 PM (CST)
 
On the Powermaster cans I have two short pieces of brass tubing pushed through two pieces of silicon fuel tubing in the plastic cap. The silicon tubing is a real tight fit on the brass tubing which holds everything in place and makes for a tight seal. I run a piece of silicon tubing with a filter on it from the cap to the bottom of the jug. I usually use that thick red silicon fuel tubing in the cap. It's not elegant, but it works.

That would save me from having to solder, heh? Sounds like a good idea. Do you have any epoxy or anything on the brass tubes?

I usually put a little JB Weld on the brass tubing right next to the silicon tubing so the brass tubing won't slip up or down through the silicon tubing. On the last one I made I JB Welded a little block of wood over the top of the two tubes so they would be a little stiffer.

LAST EDITED ON Nov-11-03 AT 05:33 PM (CST)
 
Well, at the risk of sounding like wet rag, you could just buy DuBro fuel can hardware. Essentially the same thing, but a little easier to install.

I use plastic liguid detergent bottles with Dubro or similar hardware.

Don't worry about it exploding when you solder as long as it is empty and you don't use a torch. I solder a short piece of tubing in the lid and one in one corner for a vent. Make sure the vent tube isn't too far down in the can or you will have a geyser on a hot day with a full can of fuel. Put a piece of fuel tubing on the one through the lid to reach the bottom of the can.

I throw the PowerMaster cans away, just don't trust the plastic lids for everyday use. If you can hold out for a little bit a little mouse told me that Bob B. came up with a bunch of new Fox Super Fuel cans from Fort Smith.

Thanks everyone. Jerry told me he may have a Missile Mist can for me. I still can't believe I didn't pick myself up one or two when I was getting that stuff at Fox.

Putting the tubing in the lid is the normal way of doing it. But our fuel cans are not going to explode if you solder them. The stuff doesn't even get real hot when burned. A little alcohol in it to clean it out, dump it out, and have at it.

Now a gasoline can, that's a different animal!

Dubro sells something for this.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRS88&P=0
and :
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD708
Great planes:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJ811


Pat MacKenzie

I don't see how the can's going to explode if you take the cap off and solder stuff to the cap...

In any case.. making some sort of fuel bottle is de rigeur for Combat. One thing that I hate seeing beginners do is take the caps off gallon bottles of fuel, then sticking long pieces of dirty fuel tubing into them to suck up fuel with a syringe. Big no-no. For Stunt, I'd use one of those ketchup pumps that we were talking about a while back on gallon fuel jugs. For Combat, I'd say make a smaller bottle (or several, if you use different fuels), about quart size would be right (your pitmen won't then have to lug entire gallons of fuel around the circle). Use DuBro hardware (or those nifty Central Hobbies fittings that Dirty Dan mentioned when he was talking about ketchup pumps), and good bottles would be the quart bottles you buy motor oil in (yeah, free bottles). Be sure to put filters in-line.

Well, I generally use a torch to solder ....

>Well, I generally use a torch to solder ....

Torches seem logical for soldering but, in my experience, do lousy jobs. they are too hot and burn up the flux. Generally, you will get a better solder job with a Weller soldering gun from Home Depot. If you aren't getting a nice, bright, shiny solder joint, then you are probably using too much heat.

Torch or no, if you take the cap off the can and solder the tubes to that, I don't see how the can will explode (since it's presumably sitting a safe distance away..)

my problem is needing to make one for diesel fuel. have a qt can that had diesel in I would like to put tubing in, worried that the kerosene will present a major problem of fire/explosion. Was thinking I would run the tubes through the can itself instead of the lid. Will brass tubing have the same problem (turning green) it sometimes has when left exposed to glow fuel?

Mitch: Based on experience from years ago if you keep the water in the can well below the point you are soldering it should not cause any problem, however if you fill the can all the way not even an oxy-acetylene torch will be hot enough.

I've made up a couple of diesel fuel cans like you want. Just take the cap off while you are soldering and no problem. I used copper tubing, so I can't say about the brass. I tried putting the tubes in the cap, but had a problem getting the cap to seal like it needs to.

I suck diesel fuel out with a black Sullivan bulb. A Norvel syringe will work fine also. I saw someone at the last VSC fueling a diesel by using a syringe to push air into the diesel can through the short tube. That's a pretty slick method. Diesel fuel will eat up the rubber stopper on the usual fuel syringe.

If you are worried about how much fuel goes in your tank, why don't you just be careful withyour syringe?

I put a 4/40 screw through the "ears" of my syringe, so the tip of the tube doesn't dangle around and I try to keep it in a safe place.

But, if you realy don't want to use it how much re you askin' for it?

What size is it?

My syringe is gettin kinda old...

God bless you!

In Christ,

OK. Had an epiphany and I went by nearby auto paint supply store and bought a few empty gallon cans and soldered (without torch) 5/32 brass tubes down into the can; one about 1/4" from the bottom of the tank; the other just down into the can about 1/4". Cans had metal lids (no, not the big ones, but adequate). Each can is now labeled and ready to go. I put a "U" piece of tubing across the tubes until I use that particular can of fuel. Thanks to all for your help. Total cost for 4 gallons, ready to go: $11. I can live with that! I still want any Fox cans locals can sell.

I have tried several fueling methods, and cans. The one I really like and now use is the Dave Brown, Pour and Pump can / Six Shooter pump. While it is not especially inexpensive, it does work well, and it will also suck fuel out of your tank if need be.

I used one of those cans for several years and the only problem I ran into is the lower end of the brass tube that is submerged in the fuel will eventually react with the nitro(?) in the fuel and turn into swiss cheese.

That is why I only use a short piece of copper tubing soldered through the lid and fuel tubing to the bottom of the can

Mitch,

The thread is quite long as I answer this.

Solder through the cap -- Right! You can clean and dry the cap dependably.

U-tube of suitable fuel line closes vent and fill tubes. Silicone is NOT suitable for diesel.

You only need remove the tube to the fill line, a good defense against evaporation, moisture absorption, and dirt entry. The whole cap only comes off to refill the can.

For a seal on the cap threads, plumber's teflon tape does very well. As you're not constantly removing the cap, it stands up as long as you need.

Mark the cap some way to distinguish vent and fill lines. Pulling the vent end first WILL create that fuel geyser. (We usually squeeze the line we're removing, so any pressure remains trapped.)

I tote canned fuel in a cardboard box about the size of a computer paper box. Painted inside and out with (probably) Krylon, or a quick-dry "refrigerator/porcelain" type... it's been a while.

A tote-handle of half inch nylon strip, the stuff like metal baling bands, bolted through a pair of reinforcement disks on the ends has held up for years -- surprisingly.

Paint a light color to reflect heat; cardboard is a decent insulator. Fuel stays cool in Summer, and warm in Winter. Fuel temperature has a surprising effect on setting drift from cool mornings to hot afternoons...