Brodak over Aerogloss dope?

Does anyone know (somebody must...) if there is a problem spraying Brodak clear butyrate over Aerogloss (which I've heard is some kind of mutant latex! )?

thanks, btb

Bob,
According to a chart located in Harry Higleys book
titled Master Modeling it states that Butyrate Dope
can be applied over Aero Gloss dope, But Aero Gloss
cannot be applied over Butyrate dope.

> Bob,
> According to a chart located in Harry Higleys book
> titled Master Modeling it states that Butyrate Dope
> can be applied over Aero Gloss dope, But Aero Gloss
> cannot be applied over Butyrate dope.

You are confusing early Aerogloss, and its later incantations. Currell

Might depend on what formulation of Aerogloss. I hear it changed several times over the years. I can paint acrylic enamel over butyrate or nitrate with much less problems than painting either dope over an acrylic enamel. If in doubt, try it on a scrap piece first.

I tried some Brodaks clear over Aero Gloss Black and it bubbled. So, the answer is "maybe". Try it on scrap first. Also I believe it depends on the year Aero Gloss you are talking about. Mine was on an older, never finished plane at the time. The plane was started in 1974 and finished in 1999. As a result I tossed all my Aero Gloss as most of it was so old.

thanks guys! looks like I should experiment before I jump in with both feet. I'll post my results (probably in a couple of weeks).

btb

When I built my NAKKE in 1997 I shot Sig Clear over some Areo Gloss Blue .... I still regret that horrible Blunder.

Yes it works. Brodak Clear OVER Aerogloss works. And Aerogloss over anything that's not aerogloss bad thing happen.

scott

>Yes it works. Brodak Clear OVER Aerogloss works. And
>Aerogloss over anything that's not aerogloss bad thing
>happen.
>
>scott

I will repeat what I had posted some time earlier with the BIG caveat: Your results may vary.

First off, I recommend sticking with the same substance throughout. If you are going to use Brodak dope, use it. You put a lot of time, money, energy, into building the plane. Why risk it to a bad finish because you were too cheap (lazy, frugal--pick one) to buy new dope when you had some other of brand X on hand.

That said, back in the days when "I didn't know better" and nobody told us it wouldn't work so I didn't know it wouldn't work, I bought a bunch of Aero Gloss Dope at the local Hobby Shop going out of business sale. With that, I now had some Randolph clear on hand, some SIG white and clear (both in gallon cans), and a bunch of newly purchased Aero Gloss colors. So, on several planes that I or Matt built, we used the Randolph clear as the base coat (it was tinted) Aero Gloss silver over this, SIG white over this, Aero Gloss color for trim areas over this, and SIG Lite Coat over all to finish it off. Never had a problem. As far as we were concerned, it was all Butyrate dope and never considered that there might be a problem.

But, with everything at the time, we were using Randolph thinner. We used it in the SIG and the Aero Gloss as well. And I am wondering if the thinner was the common bonding agent.

Now, once again, I don't know which version of Aero Gloss I had or used at the time. Even Randolph's thinner may be reformulated by now. Brodak's thinner (and dope) are different from Randolph's branded thinner even though it is made by the same company. (So was the Chevy Nova and the Cadilac Fleetwood, or whatever). One of the key aspects of the Brodak dope IS the Brodak thinner. Change thinners and it acts differently. So any change you make will affect even the "good" stuff.

We still have some SIG stored away in the basement. We still have some Aero Gloss in the same place. Matt uses all Brodak, bottom to top, on his serious planes. What you choose to do and the results you get are up to you.

Packrat that I am, I have '50s era Aerogloss, ditto Testors, some more recent Randolph, contemporary Sig, and a little Brodak.

Bottom line: I have mixed and matched, over/undered, clear-on-top-or-below, almost every possible permutation and combination of brands, colors, layers, you name it.

No problems.

But you know what? One factor is constant...always, Sig thinner. Had to use it, because you don't find 50 year old thinner (like Aerogloss) often. So that is a common element when I am mixing, thinning paint, etc.

Even cleaning brushes. This is one little luxury I allow myself. I don't go out and buy cheapie thinner for the brushes, although it fits the rest of my tightwad personality. It's simply too much trouble.

Notice that I did not include later, Formula U Pactra (Aerogloss), Mr Rattle Can applications, or any of that stuff.

And always remember: nitrate as your undercoat only.

I deserve a Nobel in model plane dope Chemistry. Currell

As Len says, Butyrate is Butyrate. Currell

Len's right....
I jumped the gun a little. I tested alot of wood to find the right combo that works for me. Stick to what you know.

Scott(not the leader)Riese