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Rebuilt Fox 36X

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 19 of 19 known posts recovered

Gary Weaver · Mar 06, 2004 05:41 PM

Rebuilt Fox 36X#0 source
LAST EDITED ON Mar-06-04 AT 05:42 PM (CDT)
 
I bought this Fox 36X on ebay. The engine was in very bad condition. NO compression at all. It had .002" clearance between the piston and sleeve and .006" clearance between the crank shaft and the hole in the crank case. Rod clearance will pass at .001" clearance. Sence its easier to make a new sleeve than a new piston I made a new sleeve .002" smaller to fit the ware on the existing piston. The old piston is .7975" diameter so I made the bore of the sleeve .798" giving it .0005" clearance. I made the exhaust port .050" narrower and I made the intake port .100" wider keeping the timing spacing distance of .020" the same. The open intake and slightly restricted exhaust should give it a litter more torque. I bought a roller bearing to match the other roller bearing inside the back end of the crank case and bored out the case in the front just behind the propeller and put a roller bearing in the crank case. The bearing fixes the .006" ware on the case. Now the engine has 2 roller bearings on the crank shaft. I was worried the 2nd bearing would provide an air leak but it worked out fine. I started the engine with a 10x6 prop and it runs like a new engine. Not very nice looking engine on the outside but so what it runs great. If you take a look at the port inside of my engine and compair it to your own engine you will see the port is round and not square like the factor ports. No reason for a round port its just easier to make it that way. 4 hours of work and its better than new. Go to ebay auction 3174457557 to see a picture of what the engine use to look like. I flew the Fox 36X engine today on my Flite Streak and it ran excellent all 6 flights.

[photo not recovered: fox36x.jpg]

Gary Weaver [email protected]

GLBahrman · Mar 06, 2004 06:38 PM

RE: Rebuilt Fox 36X#1 source
LAST EDITED ON Mar-06-04 AT 06:43 PM (CDT)
 
FOX 36X on a flight Streak. I bet it hauls astrioids. Better take all your vitamins before you pick-up that handle....Grins
A lot of motors have two bearings such as yours with no problem. Most of them use shielded bearings and some no seal a tall. They drip a little out the front due to crank case pressure. Supposed to be that way to lube the front bearing.

Greg L. Bahrman

Gary Weaver · Mar 06, 2004 11:30 PM

RE: Rebuilt Fox 36X#2 source
You are right about that fox 36x engine on the Flite Steak it is quick not quite as quick as my F2D combat airplane and not as manoverable either. I have heard some Fox 36x engines have another bearing in the front but I have never seen one. I took my engine over to motion indurtries so I could show them the bearing I already had in the engine and I bought one just like it for the front. I am not sure that was the correct thing to do but its seems to be working.

Gary Weaver [email protected]

GLBahrman · Mar 07, 2004 01:22 AM

RE: Rebuilt Fox 36X#3 source
Just for fun went on the Bay and checked out your motor. Looks Like
Kaw Kaw La Phew. So is this a salt blast job on the outside??

Greg L. Bahrman

Gary Weaver · Mar 07, 2004 08:45 AM

RE: Rebuilt Fox 36X#4 source
Yes and No. I took the engine apart and put the crank case in a container of laundry bleach. I came back 5 minutes later and it looked like a valcano. The bleach was having some type of chemical reaction with the metal crank case. I dumped it out and washed it off. The engine was covered with white jello looking stuff about 1/4" thick. I scraped off most of the jello and washed it clean, soaked it in fresh water to remove the bleach. After it dried I blasted it to remove the dried up white jello looking stuff. Now the engine is clean but the metal is dark gray looking. I learned a lesson don't put and engine in laundry bleach.

Gary Weaver [email protected]

bkruger · Mar 07, 2004 10:15 AM

RE: Rebuilt Fox 36X#6 source
>Yes and No. I took the engine apart and put the crank case
>in a container of laundry bleach. I came back 5 minutes
>later and it looked like a valcano. The bleach was having
>some type of chemical reaction with the metal crank case. I
....
>the engine is clean but the metal is dark gray looking. I
>learned a lesson don't put and engine in laundry bleach.
>

Gary;

My chemistry is a bit rusty, but odds are that if you are having a reaction that involves chlorine bleach and a gas is being given off, there is a good chance you are generating some type of chlorine gas. That stuff will kill you or scar your lungs, eyes, and anywhere else you have a wet tissue membrane that it is exposed to. Military terminology refers to it as a "blister agent."

Probably best to leave the bleach for laundry and pressure washing windowsils.

Bob

TRASHCAN MAN · Mar 07, 2004 07:07 PM

RE: Rebuilt Fox 36X#8 source
laundry bleach + ammonia = chlorine gas

Gary Weaver · Mar 07, 2004 09:21 PM

RE: Rebuilt Fox 36X#9 source
LAST EDITED ON Mar-07-04 AT 09:26 PM (CDT)
 
Merck Index Ninth Edition page 858. Chlorine + ammonia = Nitrogen Chloride also know as, Nitrogen Trichloride, Chlorine Nitride, Trichlorine Nitride. This gas is very unstable and explosives at 93 deg F. Explodes in direct sun light or magnesium light. Pungent odor, heaver than air, very suffication gas, if you inhale this gas you can not get it out of your lungs unless you bend over or stand on your head, evaporates rapidly in air. Used for bleaching flour and waste control of citrus fruit.

This is why you should not mix laundry bleach with laundry ammonia it will blow the lid off of your washing machine if you put enough if it in the wash.

I use to put a quart of laundry bleach in an empty 5 gallon bucket then dump in a pint of ammonium nitrate fertilizer and run very fast. In the summer when it is hot about 95 degrees outside it will explose like a stick of dynamite. This is a cheap explosion for the 4th of July and just as much fun as M-80 firecrackers. You can get a real good explosion if you put a couple of tablespoons of bleach in an empty bean can then pour in a teaspoon of ammonium nitrate fertilizer.

I am not sure what the laundry bleach reacted with I think the Fox 36X engine is probably a zinc or aluminum casting. I did not add any thing to the bleach, no soap, no ammonia, nothing. The container of bleach says 6% Sodium Hypochlorite.

Merck Index Ninth Edition page 1115. Sodium Hypochlorite ClNaO, Cl 47.62%, Na 30.88%, O 21.49%. Used as a bleaching agent. Pentahydrate highly unstable. It says nothing about being reactive with any type of metal including a Fox 36X.

Gary Weaver [email protected]

LNeumann · Aug 09, 2000 09:30 PM

RE: .40 stuka stunt (Tower) eng.later removed from the forum#11 source
What this sounds like now is that the engine does not have enough bench time on it. A plain bearing engine needs a fair amount of time just to break in the shaft. But some of these Tower engines have a nice "pinch" at the top. Then when I drop the sleeve 5 to 7 thousandths or more (depending on tolerances) the pinch gets tighter. It is not uncommon for these engines to take as much as two hours of break in before they really begin to run the way they should. The break in needs to take place at opereating temperature, which means normal rpm, but maybe a little less load at first. You are zeroing in on it now with 5% nitro and 22% oil, but if it froze up, it probably wasn't the shaft, but the piston that froze at the top of the cylinder. If you have a tight pinch on top, try putting a bit more bench time on the engine before putting it in the air. When running the engine on the bench you can monitor it at all times and keep it from going too lean (no lube) or too rich (not hot enough for the cylinder to expand). Try putting another hour on the engine on the bench, then take it out and fly it. At this point you should see quite a difference in the way that it runs and you are going to be pleased with it.

Leonard Neumann

Jay Williams · Mar 07, 2004 09:17 AM

RE: Rebuilt Fox 36X#5 source
Why not do a cut-a-way like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3179377483&category=34055

You would get more than you paid for it.

Jay

Gary Weaver · Mar 07, 2004 12:47 PM

RE: Rebuilt Fox 36X#7 source
Someone trashed a good engine. It still has a good needle valve.

Gary Weaver [email protected]

Jim T. · Aug 09, 2000 09:22 PM

RE: .40 stuka stunt (Tower) eng.later removed from the forum#10 source
I've got a Tower 40 with an RJL diesel head on it. I havn't gotten it into an airplane yet, but running on Davis Plane fuel and set 1/4 turn rich and a little undercompressed (like I would set it to fly a stunt ship) it turns a Zinger 13 X 5 at 9,200 on the bench. Isn't that about what an ST 60 will do?

Jim Thomerson

Bigiron13 · Aug 10, 2000 08:45 AM

RE: .40 stuka stunt (Tower) eng.later removed from the forum#12 source
The Tower engine (40) that I just bought for the P&C toreplace the P&C in my OS has the shaft to case fit so tight that it actually binds when I turn it over even with the P&C removed. In my opinion, that is WAY too tight and could cause galling of the case bearing. I also found that the thrust washer doesn't run true. It causes the prop to wobble when tightened down.
Denny

LNeumann · Aug 10, 2000 11:44 AM

RE: .40 stuka stunt (Tower) eng.later removed from the forum#13 source
Interesting, because I have never run into that. I always reassemble by putting the shaft in first using Marvel Air tool oil for reassembly. I then put the thrust washer on and check for front to back "slop" and also spin the shaft to see that it is free. I have never let one out that wasn't. I have had two engines--none of them tower--where the sleeve to case fit was too tight. A different sleeve fit fine so I knew it was the sleeve that came with the engine. These I turned down to get the proper slip fit before reassembly. At any rate, his shaft should not have been binding because I would have checked that. If the shaft is too tight and it is the bearing, not the shaft itself, this is an easy thing to fit, but, quite frankly, if I felt the shaft was off I would return the engine. I returned a batch of OS engines once. They weren't too happy with me, but I didn't like the piston/cylinder fit and wouldn't accept them. They did replace the engines.

I always check things out before I do anything so if I find something I don't like that isn't easily correctable I can simply return the engine.

Leonard Neumann

Bigiron13 · Aug 10, 2000 12:47 PM

RE: .40 stuka stunt (Tower) eng.later removed from the forum#14 source
Sorry Leonard, I didn't know that the engine came from you. If I had paid attention, I'd probably have known. Yes I know you would never let one out like that. Neither would I nor the silver Foxx. I talked with him, and he said that he had run across a couple of the thrust washers that didn't run true, but no shafts as tight as mine was. HMMMM
Bigiron

Old Sourdough · Aug 10, 2000 04:27 PM

RE: .40 stuka stunt (Tower) eng.later removed from the forum#15 source
Leonard,

I didn't understand Denny's comments to mean that the engine that he just bought was one that had come from you. Did I miss something?

Old Sourdough

Bigiron13 · Aug 10, 2000 06:25 PM

RE: .40 stuka stunt (Tower) eng.later removed from the forum#16 source
Yes OS, You missed something. I was talking about the guy's engine that locked up, and related it to the condition of one that I had just received from Tower and I didn't realize that he had gotten his from Leonard. I know that Leonard would never let one get out of his shop as tight as mine was.I thought that the guy had just got his from Tower.
Did I confuse you enough now??
Bigiron

57carnut · Aug 10, 2000 06:42 PM

RE: .40 stuka stunt (Tower) eng.later removed from the forum#17 source
After mulling over what happened on Wed., I am more concerned than ever, not about the eng., but what may have caused the lock-up. My flying buddy, (the one running the OS), said that he could not see any smoke trail on either of these runs, which REALLY concerns me. This was a brand new gallon of fuel,but I have not used this kind before. Leads me to believe the oil content may not be as advertised.I had occasion to talk to Randy Smith today about an order, and mentioned what happened yesterday. His reaction was that the fuel mfgrs have a tendency to, well, be less than than accurate with their claims re oil content. This can't do your eng. any good. I believe that you are recomending as much as 25% or more lube. The more I see various eng. run, the more I am inclined to agree with you. I'll probably add some more castor to this gallon, maybe to all of it.

Bigiron13 · Aug 10, 2000 09:39 PM

RE: .40 stuka stunt (Tower) eng.later removed from the forum#18 source
My personal opinion for what it's worth, is, If there is no smoke, there is not enough oil. Some time back, I opened a new case of fuel from the company that I had been doing business in fuel for many years and had had NO trouble with their quality of fuel. All of a sudden ,I started having trouble getting a good needle adjustment and the engine tended to run away at the later part of the flight. When I got to looking for reasons, I noticed that there was very little if any oil on the wing and fuselage from the exhaust (there used to be gobs of it) So, I added four ounces of castor to what was left of the gallon (alittle over three quarts) and immediately the engine ran much better, so I added another four and it started running like it had before I went to the new case. Also I started getting oil down the wing and fuselage again. I added eight ounces to each of the other three gallons of that case and have since burned it all up with no more trouble. I guess that shows that occasionally even the best and most consientious of manufacturers can err. You might try a tank of fuel with a little more oil and see what happens.
Bigiron