New Shark 15 kit

Well Santa came early to my house this year. At least it feels like Xmas after opening my new Shark 15 kit by Walter Umlamd. The box was wrapped in brown paper with a real nice box inside sporting a good looking label. With the razor knife in hand I opened the box to find the contents inside protected by foam peanuts. After removing the peanuts the plans and wood were reveiled. The plans were neatly rolled and not crushed or creased in anyway. All the wood was neatly packed and in its place with not one loose part floating around the inside of the box. Now I knew this was a laser cut kit and that was one reason for purchasing it. I saw an Impact laser kit at Ron Kings and just had to see what building a kit that was laser cut would be like. The plans are full size and CAD drawn. I have never seen plans so clear and easy to read! The laser cut parts that I have looked at so far are amazing to say the least!!! Anyway, I have just started to go thru the kit and do a parts count and so on, so this will be an on going report to everyone.

I will try and post some pics as I build the plane. AS they said in the movie Animal House "Oh Boy, is this great or what"

Sounds like a great kit. I don't have any experience w/a lazer cut kit yet. Makes me really want to give one a try.

Might not be a bad idea to put this and future findings in the "Product Reviews" section.

Chris,

So far the kit looks like it will be a good one to get my first experience with. I can only say nothing but good about it so far. I did post a note on the product review and will be updating it with pics and comments as I move along.

>I did post a note on the product review and will
>be updating it with pics and comments as I move along.

I'm sorry, I just saw it. This lazer cut stuff sounds too cool.

No sorry needed...The way I see it your watching my six!!!

Wingwalk,

What engine are you going to use for power on this little bird? The only .15 size engines I have are 3 .15x's and 1 steenfin. Would these engines be sufficient power for Walter's Shark 15 kit?........TD

I was planning on using one of my 15's on the plane. Either an Enya or the Fox 15BB, but the instuction sheet says to use 19 to a 25 size motor. With the wood that's in the kit I think it will build light. It has a 36.5 inch span so there may be a need for a little more up front than the fox 15 I have will put out. I am open to any and all comments regarding this one. If the OS 15LA is as stong as people have said, it may be on the list to look at.

Mine came today and as usual with all of Walters work it's superb.
I don't see how he consistantly keeps putting out these great kits with such frequent regularity.
As to motors an LA15 is shown, I think that it can be built very light and I'd use Fox 15 tops or perhaps an OS fp 10.
Now if we can only get Mr Umland on the El Diablo, The Cobra, The,,,,,
So many projects, so much anticipation.

Jim Thomerson used to fly a Shark 15. Unfortunately, I was witness to it's final flight. Jim used a Cox TD .09 and it had plenty of power. My guess is that a modern .09 to .10 and built light would be perfect. Perhaps Jim will comment.

Dennis,

I just looked at the rolled plans again after reading your post. Indeed the motor shown on the drawn plans is an OS 15. I don't believe it is a 15LA but an earlier model. Down in the corner of the plans it also recomends a 15 size motor. I'm not sure that a 19/25 would be needed as called for in the building instruction sheet. That may be something left over from the original kit, I don't know myself? I think I'll be sticking with the smaller motors for this one. When I get home I'm going to start on the kit.....I can't wait!!!!

By the way Dennis, Are you going to build yours with or without the flaps?

With the TD 09, Cox 7 x 3.5 prop, 10% Sig Champion fuel, crankcase pressure, I flew it on 55 ft .012 stranded lines. I did use the flaps. I think the airplane would fly fine on a Medallion 09. When I get my kit I will put a Cipolla 09 diesel on it. Probably will fly about like the TD.

I lost the airplane at a Treetown contest. Flight was going very well until I got disoriented in the overheads and put it in the asphalt. Several years ago, it placed second in Advanced at a St Louis contest where a couple of 60 ships got blown into the ground.

I'd probably use the flaps. There is enough fuse length to make them effective. Dennis

TD and Kirk,

If the wood in your Umland kits for the Shark .15 is of the quality (read good, light wood) reported for his other kits, a modern Schneurle .15 will probably be too much engine. My three Shark .15's, all kit-built from the Jetco kits' wood were not overly heavy, but not overly light either. They all flew extremely well with loop scavenged, baffle Fox .15's. Both engines had more than enough power, even running in the 4-2-4 mode. If you have one of these, it should be the cat's meow for your new kits.

I even flew one of my Shark .15's with an Enya .09 that also had plenty of power to handle the plane.

I realize that "there is no substitute for cubes" (power, in this case), but the newer .15's tend to be quite a bit heavier than those engines for which the plane was designed, and as such, will most likely require tail weight, especially when a muffler is used (Remember, this plane was designed before mufflers were commonly used!), to get the CG into an acceptable range. This, of course, would increase the wing loading thereby degrading performance somewhat.

I wouldn't want to contradict the kit's manufacturer, but a .19 to .25, even of the older baffle type wpuld not, in my experience, be suitable engines for this plane either. Those engines were definitely not recommended by the designer or original kit manufacturer!

If I had to use a modern engine, I'd look at an .09 or a .10.

Just the 2¢ worth of some one else with Shark .15 experience.

After building the wing I would have to agree with you. The wood is very light and I see no need for a modern 15 on it. ( And I sure wouldn't dream of a 19 to a 25!!! ) I have a couple of old Fox 15's here that I think I will give a try. I'm sure a 10 would work good too. Kirk Wicker
www.wingwalk.com

Well, I got mine today. I have other Umland kits and this is right up there in quality. If anything, the wood is too good for a .15 ship. I think I'll use it in my big kits. Just kidding. It is so light that a good TD .099 will power it. We have a nine year old we are trying to get into the pattern and this my be the plane for him. He tried a .15 powered plane a few weeks ago and agrees ,"they are easier to fly than my little ones with .049's". Yep, told you so. Now he is anxious to build one.

I just came up from the basement/workshop. I have framed up the wing to the point that the tips are on and the bell crank is in for a temp fit. Walter has changed over to a 3" bellcrank from a 2" on the original. The only problem I have so far is the spacing on the holes in the ribs for the leadout lines are to close together for the 3" bellcrank. I have had to remove a lot of wood on the rib just outside of the crank to get enough throw up/down. I will have to beef up the area to make up for the lost wood. Also make sure that you seperate all the tip ribs for the right and left tips. They are different but so close a mistake could be made.... Not that I would do that! Thank god I was only tack gluing at the time. I was building on the board and pinning over the plans so I actually followed the written instuctions for once. At the point that you are laying the lower spar in place you should also put the rear bellcrank support spacer in at that time. It wasn't in the instructions but I should have known from the plans... It's been awhile, what can I say... Over all so far I love the kit and if any of you see something that I should know please pass it on.

Hi Kirk. Since I wrote the instructions or construction notes, I thought I did mention to glue it in place "after the LE is in place and without gluing the top spar in place, trim and fit the bellcrank riser to thetop of the bottom spar. Add the short spar and the bellcrank mount now." I hope that is clear. If not, send me a note on what you feel it should say and at what point and I'll send Walter an updayt for future kits. Thanks, Ty Marucci

At the point that I put in the rear small spar the wing was still pinned to the board. I haven't built on a board for years . When I was building last I was using jigs. With it still pinned it can't be put in place. Not a big deal, I just unpinned the wing. The rest was not a problem at all. I have to say that even though I haven't built a plane for a bazillion years, this laser cut kit is great and I'm having a ball!!!

Ty, I feel like an idiot. I see on the full view/3d drawing that there are two different sets of tip " gussets " drawn. Very clear too I might add!!!

I used one of my wooden 4 inch 1/2A bell cranks in the one I scratch built. It stood a 30 pound pull test fine. I was irritated, then pleased at the pull test.

Here are a few pics of the project as of tonight. This laser cut stuff is great!!!