Bill Little · Nov 21, 2003 10:20 AM
#0 sourcePower wise, etc.,?
Thanks
Bill <><
Dont worry about the mule going blind 'til you get the cart loaded!
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 46 of 46 known posts recovered
Dont worry about the mule going blind 'til you get the cart loaded!
scott(and I don't own one)Riese
Bill <><
Dont worry about the mule going blind 'til you get the cart loaded!
If you have modified the above list to do 4-2-4, the Fox MAY be just a bit weaker. If on the otherhand you are running them in low pitch-high rpm mode, those engines are likely to put out substantially more poop--even accounting for less possible prop efficiency at higher rpms.
The real issue is to compare to the FP/La25 plain bearing engine and clones. My own feeling is that the Fox has more grunt than those engines. This mainfests itself in more forgiveness in slightly overweight, or possible not superlight airframes. I have run the LA25 in light planes (Brodak Lightning Streak) and there it runs just great. For a heavier plane I have had some problems with the engine sagging. I know a few guys who feel the same way.
I think you need to try out some of these things for yourself. There are a lot of variables in anyone's own setup.
I plan to do the mods that Larry suggests, and have done one with the "older" mods. Found it to run much smoother, and probably has just a little more "oomph", but the OS, and Webra, 32s and especially the TT 36 seem to really have a good bit more power.
I like a Fox 35, but in stock trim I feel it needs a little help.
Got addicted to "power". 
Bill <><
Dont worry about the mule going blind 'til you get the cart loaded!
Bench horsepower using optimum props probably would show the LA25 making as much power as the Fox, but I find it hard to believe that the way we want these engines to run on the props we use that it has the same inflight thrust. Besides, the LA25 is slightly heavier than the Fox.
Bill your question seem to me you wanted to know the differance between Standard Fox and Reworked Fox.
After rework It's still a fox. IT'S and .35 cross flow engine. It's Compared to a Veco .35, a McCoy .35, a Meco .35, K&B .35 and so on.
If you want to compare it to Modern engines...Stock OS.25 I think would be the closest to POWER as a Fox .35 re-work. The TT-36 OS-32F all run great HOWEVER, More power.
I hate useing the term POWER. Engines need to set for the plane size and weight PERIOD. REMEMBER there are .40's out there that have more "power" then a ST-60.....OS-40 VF Is one.
Scott(hope it helps)Riese
I agree with Scott. The 25 OS FP is comparible in power, but achieves it with a higher rpm (and flatter prop) and is a lot smoother and somewhat quieter, muffler vs muffler. One minute I'm flying with a FP 25, the next minute a Fox 35, so I can judge pretty easily.
Bill: I have done a little tach research re the Fox improvements. Mind that these are ground values only.
Hemi head: No rpm improvement, but Bigiron says that there are differences in how the 4-2-4 break occurs, so listen to his explanation. There are a number of different hemi heads out there, too, with Fox and Marv's being just two of them.
Stuffer backplate: Worth about 200-300 rpm. The conrod is not wobbling on the crankpin as on the stock motor.
Here are some other Fox mods that one can play with, Michigan style...
1. True the crank to the piston
2. True the lugs to the crank
3. Take out the "step" in the venturi
4. Cut oil grooves as circles around the piston
5. Cut a oil groove in the front bearing
None of these are guaranteed to improve on a good Fox in the first place, however. Currell
In fact, a ST 60 size stunter I built is being sold before I ever flew it because of the VFs!Dont worry about the mule going blind 'til you get the cart loaded!
Check the competition guidelines from AMA page 50. The maximum size engine you can run on .012 lines is a .15.
When did we add the pull test of 40LBS for engines from 40 to 46?????
The pull test is not the same as the pull we feel at the handle, it is generally greater.
Are we back to "power = pull" again?
> Time for flyers to take back their sport or
>get the rules changes
Huh?
Brett
JIM...Talk to PAUL WALKER and read the rule book. ...4 stroks get 40% off the value...So a 40 vf is .015, and so is a 4S 56, make sence to me.
Scott(i went to whatsamata U )Riese
If you have a well modded TT .36, what possible use (other than OTS) would you want a fox .35 for? I have both and I know whats going in my G' Nobler!
Ward;)
Engine Size Modification Propeller Torque Rpm HP
Fox .35 Stock 10X6 APC 33.6 10200 0 340
Fox .35 Fox Hemi-head 10X6 APC 35.2 10350 0.361
Fox .35 L&J Hemi-Head 10X6 APC 36.0 10720 0.383
Fox .35 Series 5 10X6 APC 40.0 10620 0.421
Fox .35 Series 6 10X6 APC 42.4 10560 0.444
Fox .35 Series 6 ABC 10X6 APC 41.6 10500 0.433
Brodak .40 Stock 10X6 APC 41.6 10720 0.442
OSLA .40 Stock 11X4 APC 47.2 10750 0.503
OSLA .40 Reworked 11X4 APC 48.0 10900 0.519
OSLA .46 Stock 11.5X4 APC 57.6 12360 0.706
OSLA .46 Reworked 11.5X4 APC 60.8 11644 0.702
Larry, could you fill this in a little? The same prop, spinning 6 percent faster, requires 1/2% more power (vice 1.06^3 or ~20% more)? Are those numbers (57.2, 60.8) torque in some units? If so, it takes less torque to spin it faster? Puzzling, at least.
Brett
The torque would be in ounce-inches.
That being so, HP = RPM x TORQUE / 1008406
Surely there's some experimental error in here.
Fan brake dynos are very sensitive to wind, and perhaps prop swirl.
Repeat the same test 10 times and we'll start to see some patterns.
On the other hand, no dyno is necessary when comparing engines
using the same prop. On a third hand, one usually uses a whole
range of props to get a feeling for the engine's power curve.
On a 4th hand, I would have tested the Fox with a smaller prop
(since a 10x6 would unload in the air) to get a feeling for in-air
performance.
Preston
Larry

Edit: It seems strange that the ABC Series 6 didn't put out quite as much torque and HP as the steel/iron Series 6 set up. (??)
Dont worry about the mule going blind 'til you get the cart loaded!
Larry
Currell
Dont worry about the mule going blind 'til you get the cart loaded!
Currell
The Series 5 has these reworks:
Case:
Bushing hole and venturi blended.
Mounting lugs trued.
Mill the back plate surface true to the crankshaft so the rod doesn’t walk back and forth on the crank pin.
By/pass port filled in and reshaped. The volume of the intake port is reduced approximately 30 percent. The port is reshaped to increase volume with the flow path.
Liner and piston:
Intake port is tapered and rounded with as little metal removed as possible.
Sharp edges on intake and exhaust ports inside of liner are removed.
Piston is de-burred.
Piston and liner are hand fitted.
Rod: Oil holes drilled and polished
Crankshaft:
Crankshaft is reground to reduce vibration, Intake port windows is de-burred and blended. Crankshaft and case are fitted.
The Series 6 has weight added to the counter wieght on the Crankshaft
Counter weight is milled and filled with heavy metal.
PS I sent you a direct E Mail
LARRY,
I fly with DON More then anyone. I'm building a Hi Johnson COUGAR and would LOVE TO TEST your engine. I rework my FOX. 35 and I like what I do to them. HOWEVER, I don't touch the crank. I do make sure that it's straight. E-mail me at [email protected].
Larry
Your customers appreciate your dedication and prompt turnaround. Thank you for setting the standard for the other engine builders!
Larry:
What mods are you doing to the LA engines?
Rick
I resisted this notion for several years, especially as I was flying a pretty light Smoothie and so didn't much care.
However, when beginning to use my 42-ounce Oriental, comparing it with those of Don McClave, my motor was a little soft. As it happened, about this time I owed Don a favor--few of us don't, what a generous guy he is--and assembled an ABC Fox 35 for him, beginning with a stock engine he furnished. Wanting an honest test I ran the engine in myself, even flew it a few times. Essentially a twin to the motor in my Oriental.
(While I am not sure this makes a big difference, I have absolutely no experience with Fox-produced ABC sets; I have only laid my hands on the pieces I was having made in Russia, that GMA sold on an exclusive basis.)
Don reported back that he liked the smooth nature of the engine, but that compared to the pieces he was getting from Larry Foster--hardly box-stock Fox 35s, I must point out--the motor I put together was just a little bit down on grunt, and here he held a thumb and forefinger closely together.
First, comparing well to Larry's Fox 35s is in itself a pretty good thing. And all of the ABC setups with which I have had experience easily out-pull all stock and owner-modified Fox 35s I have come across.
As to getting the power back, even going to the next step, nitro as been my answer. A 15/25/60 blend is used for most practice flying. For contests I like 20/25/55 and have been known to use 25/25/50.
Yes, there is a risk in running higher levels of nitro in a Fox 35, the most salient being that if you have a bad run and burn it down, it's toast and you can just toss that piston/cylinder in the garbage. Thankfully enough, this does not apply to my ABC sets in any way and so the risk is much reduced.
Further, the Russian-produced ABC sets have proven to have an extraordinarily long life. My high-time sets, even a couple which were intentionally brutalized during early testing, haven't lost a step.
Sometimes when Don and get together at a contest, he will mention that a particular motor has had a lot of running and has, or is about to, go over the hill. This has never been said as a whine, it's just a fact of life, one which eventually may even apply to my favorite ABC Fox 35s.
Not yet, however...
Dan
I would also add Don McClave is, in my mind the authority on how to run a Fox.
Larry
Larry
Larry,
Knowing Don McClave well, another thread dealing with torque curves, dynos and such, at least in the case of the Fox 35, can be viewed as merely mental masturbation. I swear Don has the equivalent of a dyno--and a whole bunch more test equipment--in his right arm.
The only long-term problem I have had with ABC sets--other than seeing them out-last cranks and rods, not a bad thing--was in seeing a high-time set finally develop a real narrow needle setting. Don and I flew this engine in my Zilch X at the 2003 Roundup, and while it was fine in the air, hitting the needle ended up being a two-out-of-four deal with each of us getting one good run.
In fiddling with that motor a couple weeks ago I discovered that it was heavily varnished. Cleaning both piston and cylinder with 0000 steel wool brought it right back to having a broad needle. The power was the same, regarded as some sort of victory what with the impossibility in getting piston oriented *exactly* as it was to begin with, so I hope to see (slightly) improved power after some more running.
Compression is still quite good, not as good as when piston/cylinder set was in its prime, but it still hand-starts readily.
Dan
Bob Smiley
A Lancair 360 builder/flyer trying to be a modeler
I'll be running a bunch
>of engines after Thanksgiving and if I have time I'll give
>you torque specs on a 10X6 and 11X5
>Larry
Larry,
Ooops! Pretty sure I know what you meant to say; but it is still an "Ooops!"
Just had to get in here before that F4FGuy beat me to it.
Looking over your shoulder all the time,
Dan
Dan:
Not that you don't carry a lot of weight with me, sorry it took me 2 weeks to read your jab.
Larry
>
Larry,
Have you been talking to Preston, or did you simply note his "expansive" comments which were directed my way?
"...carry a lot of weight with me," indeed.
No problem. You were included in my latest Bad Boy Stunt column, coming next month to a mail box near you. I think the comment to be hilariously funny even if target audience will prove to be rather narrow.
No hints, don't ask...
Dan
Larry