>I need sources for a few specific materials to build lighter
>mufflers, tanks and control systems.
>
>Specifically, I am currently using .007 tin stock from
>Brodak to build tanks. Where can I find thinner tin stock?
>Tin stock, I suppose, is sheet steel which is treated to
>solder well.
>
>I need a source for light weight carbon tubes of
>approximately 8mm or 5/16" outside diameter. The carbon
>tubes from my hobby shop of about that size are 7.9mm, 1
>meter long (39") and weigh 32 grams. I think similar carbon
>tubes of similar size are available in thinner wall
>thickness.
>
>I need a source for thinner aluminum for mufflers. At
>present, I am using .005 gutter flashing from Home Depot but
>the stuff is very hard. I used to work as an apprentice
>aircraft mechanic. We used specific identification such as
>"6061" and "T-3", but, for now, I simply want to find some
>soft or half hard sheet aluminum of .005 or less.
>
>I know what is commonly available in very good hobby shops,
>I need very specific materials not generally found at that
>level of availability.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Al
[email protected] (972) 257-0193
Ron B.
F4Fguy
Al:
The steel you're looking for is refered to as either "tinplate"(pure tin coated)or "terneplate"(lead/tin coated)it should be available from almost any sheet metal working shop and in thicknesses from about .005" and up.For what it's worth, my experience with tanks less than .007/.010 has been negative.With the thinner steel I found myself constantly chasing fatigue cracks.It doesn't take long for the patches to outweigh the tank!
For the carbon tubes,George Spaarr(sp?)at Aerospace Composites is the first I'd check,also there's Composite Technology,both have a fair selection of thin wall tubes.Model Research Labs(free flight outfit)has some good stuff too.You might find it useful to check your local kite supply and archery supply stores.
Aluminum(at last somthing I really know)as you point out is usually specified by alloy;6061,2024,7075,etc and temper;T-6,O,H14 etc.If your'e TIG welding Alloy doesn't make a whole lot of difference(some are a little more trouble than others),but if your'e brazing, or soldering(not recommended),stay with the low alloy contents such as the 1000-3000-5000 series.I don't understand your comment re the "flashing"material being too hard.This is usually 1200alloy dead soft,as it's prime requirement (next to keeping the rain out)is formability.You may be over working it,as it work hardens easily.In any case you can readily anneal it.Put it in your(cold) kitchen oven,and set it at 475-500F for at least four hours.Turn the oven off and allow to cool all the way down before opening the oven.Incidentally,this works for soda and beer can material too.this is useful since it is 5252(brazeable) and averages about .005"thick in the wall of the can.
The same caveat here as with the steel, if you get much below .010" fatigue cracks are a real problem,especially in a muffler where the temp is high and exhaust pulses are strong.
Hope this helps,