several "Newbie" type questions:

Here are some things I can't seem to winkle out, reading what material I can get my hands on. Please help!

1) The razor plane, balsa stripper and coping saw found in the many piece model knife sets: are they useful and durable? Enough so to purchase the kit in order to obtain the items?

2) What are the other knives for? The one that holds the #11 blades is the only one I have ever used,or seen used.

3) Is a prop reamer necessary, if the shafts on my engines are all the "standard" size? Do some prop manufacturers make undersized holes?

4) Is it better to try and find a small plane that uses razor blades, or to buy something like a Master Airscrew razor plane and its additional blades? Can you resharpen the MA blades?

5) Exactly WHAT does the "Four Way" wrench fit?

6) Other than from Leonard, where can Needle Valve Assemblies be purchased?("Universal" types)

7) Where can I find instructions for terminating lines? Is eyelet and wrapped better?

Now quit laughing!
Thanks for any help.

LAST EDITED ON Dec-03-03 AT 12:16 PM (CST)
 
The 4 way wrench should fit a standard sized glow plug and 3 different sizes of prop nuts.
A prop reamer is needed because some engines have a metric size shaft that's often a little bigger than standard American sizes. Also some props have to be reamed out to fit a shaft extention. Some props used to have a hole that would fit the small shaft of the old Fox 15 and small shaft 19's. To use then on a 1/4 " shaft required reaming them out. Does the Fox 15BB still use the small shaft? Don't have one at work to look at.

>Here are some things I can't seem to winkle out, reading
>what material I can get my hands on. Please help!
>
> 1) The razor plane, balsa stripper and coping saw found
>in the many piece model knife sets: are they useful and
>durable? Enough so to purchase the kit in order to obtain
>the items?

I love my razor plane. It is simply the coolest thing.

I have alternating luck with the balsa stripper.

I would say order the kit. You will buy lots of tools in your modeling life. Might as well start now.

Carl: For what they might be worth, here are my takes on some of the questions you asked.

> 1) The razor plane, balsa stripper and coping saw found
>in the many piece model knife sets: are they useful and
>durable? Enough so to purchase the kit in order to obtain
>the items?
I can not say that they are not "useful", but will say that you can get better quality tools separately and as you find that you need them.

>2) What are the other knives for? The one that holds the #11
>blades is the only one I have ever used,or seen used.
The other handls hold larger, stronger blades that will not fit in the small handle. Two of the more useful blades that will fit in the larger handles are the #2 - - a #11 on steroids - - and a 3" straight blade that is very useful for carving and shaping.

>3) Is a prop reamer necessary, if the shafts on my engines
>are all the "standard" size? Do some prop manufacturers
>make undersized holes?
Some prop manufacturers do make holes that are "undersized". In my relatively limited experience, Grish "Tornado" props and Master Airscrew are just a bit too small for the typical 1/4" shaft. Do you "need" a reamer for these? Probably not if you are very careful with a drill of the proper size. Props such as APC, Top Flight, Zinger, and Brodak BY&O do not need reaming for most motors.

>5) Exactly WHAT does the "Four Way" wrench fit?
My "Four Way" fits glow plugs and various size prop nuts. I say "fit" with a caution. The "fit" is not very precise, especially for glow plugs. I far prefer using nut drivers and wrenches.

>7) Where can I find instructions for terminating lines? Is
>eyelet and wrapped better?
There are directions for terminating line ends in the AMA rule book that you can access on the AMA web site. I am persuaded that wrapped terminations with eyelets are more durable and much less likely to fail than crimped ends. However, some seem quite satisfied with crimped ends. In my limited use of crimped lines I have never had one fail, but I simply do not trust them.

>Now quit laughing!
I doubt that anyone is laughing. Your questions are all legitimate steps on the learning curve.
Good luck!

The balsa strippers were popular during the Depression, when every penny counted, especially to parsimonious types like us modelers.

You either could buy a 1/16" by 1/16" by 36" strip from the grumpy guy at your LHS for $.01, or...

buy a 1/16" by 1" by 36" for maybe 7 cents, and make 16 of the above. Then he's really grumpy...But maybe he sold you the stripper...

Interesting thing about the 4 way wrenches...the dull cast Froom and Austin Craft style has one "hole" that is different from the shiny chrome Fox and, I think (later) Great Planes 4 way (anyone ever notice this)? Each will take off a glow plug, fit a .15 prop nut, and one other thing.

I'm always grabbing the wrong one when I want to remove a prop. And, on some prop nuts, you get an interference fit on either one or the other. Never paid any attention to the details.

Balsa planes aren't really, really necessary, unless you are making a lot of cowls, formed pieces, etc. (OK, I guess they are useful).

Snipped here and there...

Here are some things I can't seem to winkle out, reading what material I can get my hands on. Please help!
1) The razor plane, balsa stripper and coping saw found in the many piece model knife sets: are they useful and durable? Enough so to purchase the kit in order to obtain the items?

I think the best razor plane is sold by SIG Mfg., it is the "David" brand. All the claims SIG makes for this tool--including use on plywood--are accurate. Excellent tool, to the point where it no longer bothers me that blades for my old Wilkro planes are so hard to get.

3) Is a prop reamer necessary, if the shafts on my engines are all the "standard" size? Do some prop manufacturers make undersized holes?

I think you'll find one of those tapered "reamers," readily available at any hardware store, to work well for the limited number of times you'll actually need such a tool.

4) Is it better to try and find a small plane that uses razor blades, or to buy something like a Master Airscrew razor plane and its additional blades? Can you resharpen the MA blades?

See question/answer #1.

5) Exactly WHAT does the "Four Way" wrench fit?

These things bite, don't bother with them. Get a dedicated tool for each task, cut up your 4-way for tip weight.

6) Other than from Leonard, where can Needle Valve Assemblies be purchased?("Universal" types)

Joe Just--"BigCountryJoe"--is now selling some really nice needle valve assemblies. I just bought a couple for Fox 35s, he has a larger size as well. Joe can be reached via e-mail or through Stuka Stunt "private" system, as a couple weeks ago I forced him to learn how to use it.

7) Where can I find instructions for terminating lines? Is eyelet and wrapped better?

Wrapped lines look cool, crimps look like you don't care; I have never, *ever* had a failure with crimping, but for all Stunt models I wrap the ends.

Craft stores have beading sections. Select some small diameter wire in whatever colors you like. Wrap ends*. Hit with thin CA. Maybe even some heat-shrink, also available in numerous colors.

*A simple jig which holds free end of wire clamped between slotted end of maple stock, a vertical pin of 1/8" piano wire to locate end being wrapped helps greatly.

And a big Thank you! for asking specific questions, always a great deal easier to answer than "What engine, what plane?" types of questions.

I use a razor plane that I've had for years and years. Couldn't even tell you the brand. Had it maybe 30 years. Double edged razor blades fit it. Comes apart in 2 pieces and can can be configured in a number of different ways for different jobs. Also have a thumb plane I used periodically for long planing jobs and an assortment of handmade carving tools to do various jobs. I've collected these over the years and will occasionally make something to do a certain job.

LAST EDITED ON Dec-04-03 AT 02:56 PM (CST)
 
Hi Carl. #1-See Dirty Dans response. As to the coping saw, I have never in 50 years got it to do anything straight, so get a jig saw or a band saw.
#2-I use the larger handles for carving with the #26 blade and for gouges on some types of cowls or hollowing out blocks.
#3-If you are into classic and use Froom or Veco spinners, the reamer is needed for the adapter shaft to fit into the prop. Also some of the Super Tigre engines have larger that usual shafts and some reaming is needed at the first 1/4 inch.
#5-Some engines have metrics and the four way by Fox or Great Planes?? is useful there. Other wise, like Dan said, use the proper wrench for the purpose.
#6- Tom Dixon and RSM sell various needle valve assemblies, based on the ST version most now use, in addition to Leonard.

Things I use an awful lot:

#1 X-acto knife and #11 blades and #13 micro saw blades.
#2 knife and #26 whittling blades.
#2 handle and various razor saws.
Master Airscrew plane.
MA balsa stripper.
About a dozen different straight edges from 3 inch to 6 feet.
The reamers aren't needed often, but save your fanny when you do.
The 4-ways are pretty poor. Prefer a proper combination wrench (prop nuts) and nut drivers (glow plugs).
Northwest Shortlines angle sander tool.
Dremel tool.
About two dozen sanding blocks.
Wire cutters and various pliars.
Dozens of clamps.
Machinist's vise.
Soldering gear.
Levels of several kinds and sizes.

Zowee. Bunch of stuff. Covers most basics. Then there are the power tools....
Kelvin

Line ends...I like eyelet and wrapped ends fitted with high-grade shrink wrap after the fine copper wire is done per AMA specs. I don't recommend epoxy or CA anywhere on the wraps as it makes stress points instead of keeping things flexible. I'm sure others will have there opinions, too.

LAST EDITED ON Dec-04-03 AT 00:03 AM (CST)
 
>Here are some things I can't seem to winkle out, reading
>what material I can get my hands on. Please help!
>
> 1) The razor plane, balsa stripper and coping saw found
>in the many piece model knife sets: are they useful and
>durable? Enough so to purchase the kit in order to obtain
>the items?
*** I think you'll eventually need these 3, but wouldn't buy the kit. Paying a lot for a box that you'll never find them in again. Pegboard, Si! Box, nah. The big handle is great for the gouges. I like the one that's a full circle about 5/8" dia.

>2) What are the other knives for? The one that holds the #11
>blades is the only one I have ever used,or seen used.
***The Xacto saw (mini "back saw") is very useful. I have a German paring knife with a straight cutting edge that I use to carve Wakefield prop blades, etc. Solingen steel is better than Xacto alloy.

>
>3) Is a prop reamer necessary, if the shafts on my engines
>are all the "standard" size? Do some prop manufacturers
>make undersized holes?
***Gawd, absolutely avoid those, unless you have one of those old K&B .40's, or use a Fox shaft extension. Get a tapered hand reamer from Sears or a General brand from your local hardware store. Learn to be a little careful with it, and you'll soon get a feel for how much to open up a prop...works MUCH better!

>
>4) Is it better to try and find a small plane that uses
>razor blades, or to buy something like a Master Airscrew
>razor plane and its additional blades? Can you resharpen the
>MA blades?
***Just go to Sears and buy their smallest plane from the catalog. It's about 3" long, and an inch wide. Sturdy steel blade, only one you'll ever need. See the picture. It's the one on the right.

>5) Exactly WHAT does the "Four Way" wrench fit?
>
>6) Other than from Leonard, where can Needle Valve
>Assemblies be purchased?("Universal" types)
***RSM, Performance Specialties, Randy Aero, Tom Dixon, any engine tuner, K&B #2918 (ducted fan or boat engine, don't recall), Henry Nelson (the best), Just Engines in England, Big Country Joe.

>
>7) Where can I find instructions for terminating lines? Is
>eyelet and wrapped better?
***AMA Rule Book. Available online in PDF at http://modelaircraft.org/templates/ama/acrobat.asp?sid=187DE822E63E4AF382A6D709194B791B I prefer the brass tubing thimble instead of the eyelets, as they don't seem to get locked up in a twisted mess, changing your handle adjustments. Bind with copper wire and secure with heat shrink tubing. IMO.

Steve

Edit: Left: "Little Giant", uses a double edge "blue blade" razor blade. Current stainless blades are useless in this. The edge bends over if you hit a knot in the balsa or a spot of CA.
Middle: A handmade maple plane, made and sold by Jim Jones of Mt. Clements, MI. Don't know if he's still doing this. The blade is a regular single edge blade, but without the crimped-on backing strip. I've only used the one, have 5 extras. It cuts nice if you adjust it just right. The blades are tough.
Right: The small Sears plane. Planes down plywood doublers with no problem. Permanent blade, but I've yet to see a need to sharpen it. Sometimes I take it to work to shave the burrs off the edge of large plastic parts...UHMW, Polypoopalene, Delrin etc...works very nicely.
I'd sure buy the Sears plane. I don't have that many Xacto thingys.

I agree with most everybody above. I only use the #11 with the small handle and a couple of blade types with the big red handle. I'll go along with Steve on the plane. I'd get an even bigger plane: a little block plane, maybe. Since I got Leonard Lee's sharpening book and learned how to sharpen planes and chisels, I use planes and chisels a lot.

I especially agree with the AMA line termination method. Marvin Denny (Bigiron) did some thorough testing of line terminations and found it to be the best method, although there was one high-zoot industrial crimping tool that did as well.

GAWD!! Howard!!! Those line tests were ancient history!! I didn't think that anyone who was old enough to read back then was still living. I was throwing out a lot of the archived stuff that I had kept over the years the other day and found all the data and test methods of the lines, terminations,and connectors that I ran. I got rid of it.
Bigiron aka Marvin Denny aka Hey You and You ##*!!@*.

I see Howard mentions a book by Leonard Lee. Maybe this is a good time to mention the retail tool stores he owns Mr. Lee (not Mr. Rush) Called Lee Valley .They are a chain of 11 stores across Canada, they sell on line. I am a bit prejudiced cause there is one store within walking distance of my house. Several of their items are in regular use by me, (eg. handle tape.hot stuff.epoxy and many many fine tools. They have the finest planes and many of their tool aare designed by them and built for them under the name Veritas. Their catalogues are a wonderful thing to own, in this case the one to get would be their FINE WOODWORKING TOOLS Get it on line at their web site . Good luck. Keith Varley Its <www.leevalley.com>

Keith Varley

Awright! Good answers, all. That's the kinda stuff I need to know. One of these days , I'll probably be quoting you guys (without attribution, of course), and become known as the local expert. That's any "normal" guy on the internet, or more than 25 miles from home. Thank you.

I have both tapered reamer and the prop reamer. Both are useful. If you get a prop reamer get one that has four size reams rather than three.

My $.02, FWIW.
I have the #1, #2, and (3)#5 handles from Xacto. The #5 (IIRC) are the big handles with the slot/round hole. I also have one of their tapered #1 (??) handles. The big ones I have dedicated to one w/Zona saw blade, one w/ gouges, and an aluminum one with the #26 carving blades. Of course, I seldom use the #1 handles since I like the scaple blades in the #3 & #4 handles.

For wood planes I have a Solingen which uses double edge razor blades, a Master Airscrew, and a couple of mini wood planes (source unknown now). Each can do different jobs to a high degree of success.

Hand held scroll and Jeweler's saws do have their place, as do powered scroll, jig, and band saws. Next up for me is a 4" mini table saw!

I have accumulated these tools over the past 40 + years and am always looking for more things to help out in my building.

I use wrenches to install prop nuts, and sockets to install glow plugs, but often use the "4way" for plugs.

Some people here have knocked the prop reamers, but I use them quite often. And I do have access to a drill press and many, many bits.

Start collecting tools, you will always need them, they are good expenditures! And you never know where you might find them.

Bill <><