Returnee Question...

Like most of us, I played with C/L models as a youngster. Been into R/C for more years than I care to count, but now find myself pushed (by a flying buddy) back toward C/L again.

I'm starting out simple, a vintage Cox RTF. Down the road, I'll probably build a real kit, but not just now.

My question deals with fuel for Cox 1/2A reed valve engines. I remember the old Thimble Drome blend in the blue can had lots of castor. I looked on the Estes site (what an abortion) and never could find "accesories", so I dunno if they even sell the stuff any more.

I seem to recall these engines need a lot of nitro. I use Morgan Cool Power 15% in all my R/C aircraft (fixed and rotary wing), with 16% synthetic oil and one ounce of castor added per gallon.

I don't mind paying an exhorbitant price for dedicated 1/2A fuel, if I must. But what do these little engines like?

Sorry if this is an inappropriate post; seems like this board is really for serious stunt flyers, so apologies in advance for yet another annoying "newbie" thread... but I figure if anyone knows, you guys will.

I discovered many moons ago that engines below .25 displacement do not like me so I can't help with the cox. Just wanted to welcome you and please do ask any and all questions somebody here knows the answer.

I'd take a quart of your Morgan Cool Power 15% and add a couple more oz of castor and give it a try. Should work OK. Various makers sell quarts of 1/2a blends which might be a little better. You do need castor, and more nitro is better.

Cox fuel is still available but is very expensive compared to most other fuels.
Fuel does not have to be all castor but some is recommended for lubricating the ball socket on the piston. Using 15%-25% nitro and 20% oil seems to work well.
You might add some castor to your RC fuel and give it a try.
Welcome back to CL.

George

Edit: Sorry, Jim. I was typing while you were typing.

Hi, anybody interested in C L. is our friend regardless if a 1/2 A or competive large stunter. Yoiu are right to add oil to your store bought Morgan fues, but the Cool Power is all synthetic and their Omega is mixed castor and synthetic, being a much better start, Been using Omega with various amounts of oil added castor or synthetic for years, completely satisfied.Ive found you can run cox .049 on 10% but the performance is way better with like 35% or something.Good luck.Keith Varley

Steve:

Simplest solution would be to buy the Sig 25 or 35% fuel which is 20% lube 1/2 castor, 1/2 klotz. Price per quart is $9.49 or $10.99. This should be more than enough before you start building a better plane.

Second choice would be Norvel which has fuel in the same percentage nitro. Price per quart is about the same as Sig. The oil content is lower as far as I know because the norvels use ceramic coated sleeves which need less than the Cox steel sleeves.

Your LHS should be able to get at least one of these for you. If not you can order direct from their web sites.

Probably not of any importance but Cox used to state that failure to use castor in the fuel voided the warranty.

>Steve:
>
>Simplest solution would be to buy the Sig 25 or 35% fuel
>which is 20% lube 1/2 castor, 1/2 klotz. Price per quart is
>$9.49 or $10.99. This should be more than enough before you
>start building a better plane.

This is exactly what I use. For the Musciano Meet, we are limited to 15% nitro, however. Currell
>

Steve,

I am also a returnee after 30 years away from the hobby. I used to use Fox's 40/40 for my half a engines. Later I mixed my own. I am still in favor of all castor. The local Hobby Shop here sells a 25% nitro 18% castor blend by the quart. I bought some and will let you know how it works out. I do plan to add a little castor to bring it up to at least 20%.

Hey, hey, welcome back! I came back to CL, too, after nearly 30 years off. We mess with Cox Black Widows, Babe Bees, and TeeDees a fair amount. We run nothing but SIG Championship 25% nitro/straight castor with greeat success. A quart lasts a long time amd it's pretty easy to get.
Kelvin

HI Steve. Let it be known that of the 1100+ people on line on this forum, about 6 are serious stunt flyers. The rest of us are here because it gets lonely at night, the wife's asleep and the cats are too. Too tired to do any more sanding and this site us so full of "it". "IT" being information, ideas, humor, and "stuff". You'll find most of us are just wannabes and have more fun with the people than the planes.

Ty:

There have got to be more than 6 serious stunt flyers! I am a serious stunt flyer, not good, but serious. Now if you mean serious and good well O.K. you are probably still low but not by much.

>Ty:
>There have got to be more than 6 serious stunt flyers! I am a serious stunt flyer, not good, but serious. Now if you mean serious and good well O.K. you are probably still low but not by much.

Good point! You don't have to be good to be serious...but do you have to be serious to be good?

Goodness...

Many thanks for the warm welcome.

Sounds like the Sig fuel is the way to go; saves me from having to mix up a quart or so with extra castor, and it has the extra nitro. I think I recall seeing a few bottles of it at the LHS...

Trust me, I am well aware of the differences in fuels. This is a red-hot topic in the heli community, because of the special problems heli engines face.

So much for that; next question...

There was a filler designed to be used with the old blue TD cans; it was red plastic, had a wire mesh filter built in, and snapped into the neck of the can. One attached a piece of tubing and filled away. Does anyone still make something like that?

Or should I go easy on the nostalgia thing and just get a fuel bulb and CrapTrap (inline filter)?

>Or should I go easy on the nostalgia thing and just get a
>fuel bulb and CrapTrap (inline filter)?

We just use a small Sullivan fuel bulb. Probably should fix up a bottle with the fittings in the cap, but have been too lazy to do it. I haven't seen any real problems, even with our sloppy technique.
Kelvin

>Sounds like the Sig fuel is the way to go; saves me from
>having to mix up a quart or so with extra castor, and it has
>the extra nitro. I think I recall seeing a few bottles of it
>at the LHS...
>
>So much for that; next question...
>
>There was a filler designed to be used with the old blue TD
>cans; it was red plastic, had a wire mesh filter built in,
>and snapped into the neck of the can. One attached a piece
>of tubing and filled away. Does anyone still make something
>like that?
>
>Or should I go easy on the nostalgia thing and just get a
>fuel bulb and CrapTrap (inline filter)?
>
>

Sig can do the whole thing for you painlessly. You want to purchase their "CL 1/2A Flight Pack" part number SIGSH566. Their web page is a real pain, things are hard to find and I can't post a direct link here that will take you there. Go to http://www.sigmfg.com. Select Catalog. Select Merchandise. Select Sig CL Accessories. Or type the part number into the search window. If you have a LHS that carries Sig, you can save shipping by having them order it.

This includes a quart of the correct fuel (runs great in Cox reed valves), battery clip, small fuel bulb (really an ear wash bulb, but just right for size and holds up to fuel). Also a control handle, lines, clips, etc. All for $17.95. Sig is really great for this. A kid can fly 1/2 A control line with this and any Sig 1/2 A kit, such as the Skyray. Really helps beginners try 1/2 A CL. This is the set I use and it is just fine.

Have Fun!

Thanks, Andy. That Sig 1/2A kit sounds like exactly what I need. Man, when I think of the old metal tackle box I had as a kid that was just full of that kind of stuff...

I hear you regarding Sig's site. Want to see one worse? Look at Estes...

Steve: WELCOME! Now there are two of us! WOWIE!

Norvel has a 2 oz plastic syringe which is just what you need.

>Ty:
>There have got to be more than 6 serious stunt flyers! I am a serious stunt flyer, not good, but serious. Now if you mean serious and good well O.K. you are probably still low but not by much.

Good point! You don't have to be good to be serious...but do you have to be serious to be good?

George

Whether or not one is a Serious Stunt Flyer (SSF) is an issue we have long and often wrestled with.

I have at least one answer to the question, plus a way in which to quantify exactly how serious each of you is in relation to your peers.

Next issue of Stunt News. Bad Boy Stunt column. I am, like, totally ashamed I wrote it. So it will probably be popular. Except with Mr. Peabody, who at least now has something to look forward to, a good reason to read the next BBS column.

I'm sorry, Serious Stunt Flier (SSF) conflicts with the already in use Stuka Stunt Forum (SSF).

We cannot have an Acronym Usage Conflict (AUC), now can we?

Help Avoid Ambiguous Acronyms!

Do your part and consult the Universal Stunt Acronym Dictionary (USAD) for possible conflicts before coining new acronyms.

Thank you for your cooperation.

The Concept Police

Promoting Unambiguous Abreviated Communication Everywhere!

BTW, BBS is an ASA.

I'm sorry, Serious Stunt Flier (SSF) conflicts with the already in use Stuka Stunt Forum (SSF).
We cannot have an Acronym Usage Conflict (AUC), now can we?

Help Avoid Ambiguous Acronyms!

Do your part and consult the Universal Stunt Acronym Dictionary (USAD) for possible conflicts before coining new acronyms.

Thank you for your cooperation.

The Concept Police

Promoting Unambiguous Abreviated Communication Everywhere!

BTW, BBS is an ASA.

Agreed, all points are agreed to.

Which is exactly why I stand firm in my insistence that Len did not avail himself of your advice: I used SSF, in Model Builder magazine, years and years before home computers were common, when no one on this planet thought there would ever be a Stuka Stunt web site.

So there. (Insert favorite smiley icon.)

>I used SSF, in Model Builder magazine, years and years
>before home computers were common, when no one
>on this planet thought there would ever be a Stuka Stunt
>Forum web site.
>
>So there.
>
>
>Dan

Well, looks like we have a Prior Use Claim (PUC) on the SSF Acronym.

Oh, my.

We'll have to have a ruling from the Acronym Use Commisssion (AUC) on the PUC.

Once the AUC rules on the PUC, we'll put out a RFPNA for a Replacement Acronym and appoint a ARC to review the proposed RA's.

The forum member who submits the winning PRA will be notified by email and win an all expenses paid trip to Lebanon, Tennessee to the SWAHF ceremonies to be held Valentines Day, 2004, sponsored by Proctor & Gamble.

Consult your Local Listings.

All rights reserved.

Your milage may vary.

WYSIWYG