I know, everyone thinks mine isn't! But while making a diesel head conversion today, I had a flashback to the time when I was trying to keep the kids' VW's running. It was a prime law that when we put a steel screw into an aluminum part, we used anti-sieze "goop" on the screw to prevent taking out the aluminum threads when we removed the screw later. This was especially true of the spark plugs. (Don't even ask how I found that one out!) Should we be using anti-seize goop on cylinder head screws? This question may have been asked and answered before, but if so, I missed it.
Ever suspected your head was not screwed on right?
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 4 of 4 known posts recovered
Hee yuk... As a Volksie man myself, I tend to be REAL careful around any steel into aluminum alloy theads. It can't hurt anything, and sure is a BUNCH easier than trying to fix messed up components later on.
JAK
The ones I have had the most trouble with are the 20 and 25 FP engines. They are fine when new, but when people send me used engines to rework, I sometimes have a horrible time getting the head screws out. Now these are smaller than the ones used on the 35 and 40--I don't know why--but you do offer a sensible solution. If we put some anti-sieze goop on the bolts (the heads as well as the threads--the bolts will sieze to the head!) we could save ourselves some grief later on.
Leonard Neumann
When I was ( much...) younger I had Velocette motor-cycles, they did many strange things engineering-wise ( THAT Clutch ..)
Anyway they had steel bolts into Dural all over the place with FINE threads, very easy to strip the thread.
Guess how I know this......
Anyway they had steel bolts into Dural all over the place with FINE threads, very easy to strip the thread.
Guess how I know this......
Dave