decal trim

I want to build the Laird Turner Meteor as a semi scale stunter. I think it would morph into a pretty good plane.
It has a large CHAMPION logo on the side of the rear fuse, and a smaller ETHEL (with smaller printing)on the side of the engine cowl.
Can anyone give me some advice on how to create these logos and transfer them. I've read about the paper that can be printed on and turned into transfers and then clear coated, that's not the problem. Do I have to buy a graphics program and create the logos that way or is there another method. I thought about buying a plastic kit, and if mini logos are on a sheet of transfers, perhaps there is a way of enlagrging them?????????
Help

JIm Brooks

Jim,

Hmm, well, I like to use MS Word for this. It has an add-on program called WordArt. You can do pretty much anything you want that has to do with letter artwork with this. For logo stuff like the Champion logo, I use an art drawing program. In my case it's a freeware program called The Gimp, but there are others. You can also sometimes find such logos on the internet and just paste them into a Word document with the WordArt stuff. Might try some of the Air Racing sites.

>I thought about buying a plastic kit, and if mini logos are on
>a sheet of transfers, perhaps there is a way of enlagrging
>them?????????

The way I would do it is to position the model decal very carefully so that horizontal and vertical lines are square with the scanner bed, scan the model decal at something like 300 dpi and then do a little math and figure out some compromise to scale the physical dimensions of the image up while reducing the dpi to say 150 or maybe even 100. if you do nothing but reduce the dpi setting, you will double the physical size of the image, although at some point the Jaggies begin to show.

You might need to touch the resulting image up a bit. Worst case is you scale it up a lot, then use the image on the background layer as the map for generating new paths and redraw a crisp large graphic.

You could then just print it on an inkjet printer on clear decal paper and have a nice decal to slip on the plane.

Then there is the issue of fuel proofing with a light coat of clear something, which I can't speak to, not having any experience.

The larger scale plastic kit you find to start from, the better.

Cy.

As a rule, inkjet ink isn't waterproof, so there is a need to spary some sort of fixative just to allow the decal to be wetted and removed from the backing paper without smearing.

I've made the decals, shot on a light coat of fixative (either really light clear dope or the fixative that Micromark sells) then wet and apply. There are some tricks to that, too. Then, if you're using regular clear dope for the topcoat, just start spraying light coats on the plane and buiding up the clear. Works pretty well, overall. Seems to work well with catalyzed poly-urethane, also.

That provoked some research.

Several websites have similar instructions:

Step #1:

Design your decals using any graphic software program. (Use 8 1/2 " x 11" sheet BEL INK JET Decal Paper or cut sheet into half if desired.)

Step #2:

Set your printer as follows:

Resolution = Best
Paper = Photo Gloss
(Print your decal on the glossy side of BEL INK JET Decal Paper.)

Step #3:

Spray your printed sheet evenly with Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear High Gloss spray until the sheet has a shine (2-3 coats). Allow 30 to 60 minutes to dry and set. (This product is available at any craft or hardware store such as Loews, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Walmart, etc. Any acrylic clear coat spray will work.)

Step #4:

Cut out your image using a standard pair of sharp household scissors.

Step #5:

Place decal into a cup of clean water for 45-60 seconds and remove when the thin decal film begins to slip along backing.

Step #6:

Apply decal to clean surface.

http://www.decalpaper.com/inkjet-instructions.html
http://www.ceramic-decal.com/inkjet-instructions.cfm

Pro plastic modelers use setting solution to mold a decal on to the fine detail of a model.

http://home.inreach.com/jkitts/DecalInstr.html
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/bad/bad16-801.htm

http://www.themodelmakersresource.co.uk/articles/article011.html

http://cidwebs.com/armorinscale/decalbasics.htm

Some folks talk about a clear coat after the decal is set. Micro-Mark has a page with the full sequence.

http://www.micromark.com/html_pages/instructions/82400i/decal_finishing.html

Here is a model train builder's page full of procedure:

http://www.trainweb.org/danderso/completen.html#fifth

And finally, here is a guy who specializes in decal building. He uses a Kodak First Check Digital Proofer.  The Kodak printer is a very specialized printer which uses water-proof ink that adheres to decal paper.

http://www.drawdecal.com/home.htm
http://www.drawdecal.com/apply.htm

Alps Electronics stopped producing Micro Dry Printers for sale on the open market a couple of years ago. The First Check is actually manufactured by Alps for Kodak and uses the same technology as the Alps MD Series Printers. We will be using a combination of Alps and Kodak inks to produce our products. Alps consumables will be available for a quite a while according to the Alps Tech Department.   For anyone wanting information on these printers check out Kodak Polychrome Graphics.

That ought to be enough pointers for anyone interested in this thread to find more info. There is talk of waterproof inks and ALPS printers and lots of variations on the paper for those who want to delve further.

The question I have, which would have to be figured out with some testing, is:

Once you print the decal, put a couple of light coats of Krylon on the decale, cut it out, clean the surface and prep it with a fixative solution, slide the wetted decal on and smooth it with decal set and let it dry--can you spray a light coat or two of clear Krylon to firmly seal and protect the decal and then go shoot the clear dope and remainder of the finish over the Krylon?

If so, one should be able to get a pretty clean result.

As one of the decal mavens puts it: "The art of decaling is making it look like you did not use any decals!"

I can see it now.

In six months we'll see a flurry of stunt models with lots of detail markings all over the airframe.

I always thought it would be a good idea to put a tiny stencil/block lettering note next to the filler and vent tubes.

"Service this aircraft with fuel containing no less than 25% pure castor oil and no more than 15% nitromethane. Fuel capacity 6 Oz."

Just a thought.

Cy.

Wow!!! Thanks so much guys.

Cy,

The decal softener really helps. Particularly if the surface has some imperfection (perish the thought). I used a setting solution that allowed the decal to really blend in the last time. I was pretty happy with the result.

Jim, how ya doin?

When I get to the office in the morning I will see if I don't have a Champion logo in my image files. With an ink jet, the Micro Mark stuff is your best bet.. As recommended get yourself a freeware (or cheap) graphics program and learn the basics of how to size and print an image, you will find a milion uses for it...

Thanks Bob. Do you have an address for freeware?

Jim,

I have had that airplane in mind for several years and finally got a good profile drawing and bulkhead views started last year. Was planning a Saito 72 for it but got side tracked by other things in life.

I have some documentation from the Smithsonian and other pubs that I would be willing to share if you need. I really love that airplane. Good luck with yours!

John S.

John

My plan is for the Saito .72 as well. I thought I'd build it around 720 in. and the views and docs I was able to find are a bit limited, so if you would like to share what you have I'd be very grateful. I'm on my way to finishing a SuperMaster and when that's done I'll start drawing the Laird. Doug Moon keeps extolling the Geobolt wing and I've asked him to share the dimensions and section as it seems a close approximation to the Laird. I hope he responds.
Every time I look at one of the pictures I've gotten off the net I imagine setting the thing down on the tarmac ready to fly. Again---WOW!!

>John
>
> My plan is for the Saito .72 as well. I thought I'd
>build it around 720 in. and the views and docs I was able to
>find are a bit limited, so if you would like to share what
>you have I'd be very grateful. I'm on my way to finishing a
>SuperMaster and when that's done I'll start drawing the
>Laird. Doug Moon keeps extolling the Geobolt wing and I've
>asked him to share the dimensions and section as it seems a
>close approximation to the Laird. I hope he responds.
>Every time I look at one of the pictures I've gotten off the
>net I imagine setting the thing down on the tarmac ready to
>fly. Again---WOW!!

I am going to use the Geobolt wing as well for the Meteor project but will knock a couple inches off the span. With tips my last Chevelle was 63 inches and is a tad big. My plane as well as Dougs geobolt planes were very light and I think 700 sq. is plenty even with the thin wing. I will try to get some copies of my stuff together for you. Send me your snail mail address when you get a chance.

John

I generally go to www.tucows.com for freeware and shareware. Caution, shareware is usually only good for 30 days or so before it renders itself unsuable without paying license fee.

Thought I might have a Champion logo on a CD with a bunch of auto stuff but all it has is auto manf. logos, sorry.. Might do a google image search for Champion and see what pops up.

Just to nit-pick, please watch spelling; it really is "ETHYL" . . .

http://www.oilhistory.com/pages/knock.html

http://www.fiddlersgreen.net/aircraft/racers/laird/meteor/info/info.htm