LAST EDITED ON Jan-09-04 AT 10:14 AM (CDT)
Here is some pictures of my Buc.740 ready for silver. Power is a Ro-JETT .40.
Here is some pictures of my Buc.740 ready for silver. Power is a Ro-JETT .40.
buc.740
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 20 of 20 known posts recovered
>Yes Sir Doug moon talked me in to it
Please keep posting pictures as I will need to steal them for the UHP website.
The City Smasher
I will keep posting them Brad the weight so for is 42.7 OZ and its powered by a .40 RO-JETT.
Bob Reeves · Jan 09, 2004 03:20 PM
#5 sourceYou guys that have your new airplanes in one piece are starting to really pi*s me off. I am still several days away from "one piece" 
You have a great airplane with a great engine, can't help but be a winner...
Nice looking model, Stephen.
Wondering what technique you used to make the (balsa..?) canopy?
Was it a solid block carving or a laminated built-up block?
...or is it that new faux-balsa type plastic...
LaterZ,
Peter O'Keeffe
The Canpay was made with a balsa block and its carved out to about 1/16 thick al the way around.I plan on painting all in Brodak Dope.
Ty Marcucci · Jan 09, 2004 06:31 PM
#8 sourceHmmm. Could it be that building with "real" fuselage and wing jigs speeds up the process?? 
Bob Reeves · Jan 09, 2004 06:50 PM
#9 sourceNa... Having to re-paint last years airplane delayed the start of my building season 
Really nice work. What are you going to paint it with?
Milton Graham\Proparc
Brodak dope all the way!!!!!!I'm going to try my hand at checker board for the first time...
That was a nice set of pictures. A coupe of the close-ups seem a tiny bit out of focus, but that happens to me with a digital camera from time to time. I think it's due to the automagic focus mechanism. There is a small switch on the front I can use to change the range, but I keep forgetting which way to flip it. Anyway your set fits nicely on the screen, tells the story, etc.
Should the fillets be sanded down smooth before the silver coat? I would expect the fillet to appear as the smooth read band of fillet and not see any of the extention out onto the structure around it.
My hat's off to you for getting that far.
Let us know.
Cy.
The Cat Whisperer
The fillets are sanded and smooth I extended them out to get a good feathed edge try it it works great just like doing body work on a car I will post pictures of he silver coat and close ups on the fillets.
They really do look ugly at that stage but I think you may have something in extending them out a little. I am thinking it would make sanding the fillets easier without so much worry about putting a gouge in the adjoining balsa.
Bill Little · Jan 12, 2004 11:12 AM
#14 sourceLooks like it is going to be a good one!
A question (maybe Richard will answer this): Is your RE Rojett retimed for muffler use, or is it the same as the pipe timing? Not as familiar with the RoJetts as some others.
Keep it up!
Bill <><
Disclaimer: I am neither a NATS Champion, engine reworker, engine producer, column writer, Hobby Shop owner, *rockeet* scientist, nor otherwise. Just an old Advanced flier. 
Same timming matter of fact I'm going to buy a pipe just as soon I save up the money...
John Sunderland · Jan 12, 2004 05:24 PM
#18 sourceGood looking and a hot powerplant. You may not want to keep finger dipping into that dirty diaper for fillet material though! Sands like crap! D;)
John Sunderland
Stephen,Looking good! I am worried a little about the cooling exit. It does not look to be enough to me. Do you plan on creating some cooling ducts, holes. I would like to see some around the muffler. Hope to see the finished product in Houston!?
As to the timing it is the same for both set up's. The engine is built for a soft 4-2-4 with a muffler and on the pipe either type of run will work. On the pipe it is much like a OS40/46 VF, just 4 ounces lighter. On the muffler is very much like the Aero on steroids. Not having as much time on the pipe set up as I would have liked before Bob Hunt ran his at the team trials I was not able to figure out what was happening to his run. What I have now figured out with 300 some odd flights with mine since the Team Trials is exactly what PW told him. The engine was to rich. He was running the same set up as Dee Rice (Oriental Plus) with the exception of much larger venturi and more nitro. This caused him to set his needle richer than Dee's set up and thus the raspy bottoms. The cure is to not run it so rich.This will require the prop be changed or go back to the smaller venturi causing the needle to be set leaner to get the same lap speed. Simple as that.
For you guys that already have my BSE40 do not worry about drilling out the venturi. I send it out with a #12 (.189) hole and it is right for the lighter planes below 40 ounces. For the heavier planes up to 60 ounces (mine is 59) you can take it all the way out to a #1 drill with lots more power but also fuel consumption. The motor runs the same just more power with each larger hole size. I am running a .250 hole and 15% nitro and pushing a 59 ounces plane around very nice on 5 1/2 ounces. If you get to the larger end of this measurement you will need to run pressure. I am now flying my Blue Sky Models Falcon (45 ounces) with the rear exhaust muffler version BSE40 using a .215 hole and header/muffler pressure. Flys in a fast 4 stroke on normal days and when I need a little more power for windy/hot days I needle it in some and it now breaks softly at the tops of the loops.
Richard Oliver
As to the timing it is the same for both set up's. The engine is built for a soft 4-2-4 with a muffler and on the pipe either type of run will work. On the pipe it is much like a OS40/46 VF, just 4 ounces lighter. On the muffler is very much like the Aero on steroids. Not having as much time on the pipe set up as I would have liked before Bob Hunt ran his at the team trials I was not able to figure out what was happening to his run. What I have now figured out with 300 some odd flights with mine since the Team Trials is exactly what PW told him. The engine was to rich. He was running the same set up as Dee Rice (Oriental Plus) with the exception of much larger venturi and more nitro. This caused him to set his needle richer than Dee's set up and thus the raspy bottoms. The cure is to not run it so rich.This will require the prop be changed or go back to the smaller venturi causing the needle to be set leaner to get the same lap speed. Simple as that.
For you guys that already have my BSE40 do not worry about drilling out the venturi. I send it out with a #12 (.189) hole and it is right for the lighter planes below 40 ounces. For the heavier planes up to 60 ounces (mine is 59) you can take it all the way out to a #1 drill with lots more power but also fuel consumption. The motor runs the same just more power with each larger hole size. I am running a .250 hole and 15% nitro and pushing a 59 ounces plane around very nice on 5 1/2 ounces. If you get to the larger end of this measurement you will need to run pressure. I am now flying my Blue Sky Models Falcon (45 ounces) with the rear exhaust muffler version BSE40 using a .215 hole and header/muffler pressure. Flys in a fast 4 stroke on normal days and when I need a little more power for windy/hot days I needle it in some and it now breaks softly at the tops of the loops.
Richard Oliver