Extend needle and off set??

OK on this Fox .25 I am breaking in, the needle is short and very close to the prop. Is there a kit or some after market item that will off set the needle just a tad so I can get a turn on it while it is runing. Right now I adjust the needle and start the engine. If it is not running fast enough, I drop a rag into the prop. Readjust the needle and start again. I am just too chicken to get my fingers that close to the prop.

Paul,

I've seen flexshafts (springs) that could be soldered to the needle valves with a device to hold it bent back from the prop. I don't know off hand where I could get one now, but you have made me curious enough that I'm gonna go look. If I find a source I'll let you and the group know.

LAST EDITED ON Jan-20-04 AT 08:43 PM (CDT)
 
An old speedometer cable or motorcycle cable would provide a flexible way to turn the needle. Fastening it to the needle would be challenging. I would probably cut the knob off and use a piece of brass tubing for a coupler. A nut or small pinion gear would work for a knob. Be sure to anchor the end of the extension, or it could snap forward into the prop when you let go...bad news. Steve

>Paul,
>
>I've seen flexshafts (springs) that could be soldered to the
>needle valves with a device to hold it bent back from the
>prop. I don't know off hand where I could get one now, but
>you have made me curious enough that I'm gonna go look. If
>I find a source I'll let you and the group know.
>
>Tom

Remember the old "Perfect" pic-a-pac assorments? They use to sell a needle valve assembly with a flex shaft on the needle and an "L" bracket to bolt to the motor lug or side of the fuse. Still have a couple in the flight box! Last one I bought NIP was 15 cents back in the fifties.

Rich_I

PS Yes, they were for my Foxes

LAST EDITED ON Jan-20-04 AT 09:40 PM (CDT)
 
1. There are many better ways to stop engines. Don't just "drop a rag in it", please. My preference is to simply pinch the fuel line closed. Works every time.

2. You can open the current needle setting fairly wide open and add a second, RC-style NVA inline for controlling fuel flow, which doesn't have to be mounted to anything because it's temporary. It can be two inches further away from the regular needle and that distance gives you plenty of room for the fattest of fingers and the clumsiest of hands.

Kiwi

You can tell a Fox flyer by the skinned knuckles. Seriously, I wouldn't adjust the needle while the engine is running. I try not to do that. As said, pinch off the fuel line, reset the needle, and try again. If you are flipping the prop, and wearing a heavy leather glove, it is OK to adjust the needle with the gloved hand if you are careful.

If you adjust the needle from behind and your fingers hit the prop, it will kick the finger out of the way. (OK, so I have skinned knuckles.) If you simply are afraid it is too close, this may be a case where you want to go to a remote needle. The FP remotes have a bracket that mounts on the back plate of the engine and enough leeway to fit a multitude of engines. With these you can just keep the standard needle up front and open it a bit richer than normal.

As to shutting off an engine that is running, simply pick up the plane and aim it straight down. That will uncover the pickup tube and it will shut itself off. Works even with a cowled engine. But I agree, don't throw a rag into the prop.

Oh, and you could substitute an OS needle up front. These have a spring on them so you can pull it back and adjust it.

I am amazed at the wealth of knowledge here on this forum. I am learning so much. I do appreciate everyone’s response.

However, it will not work with a clunk tank. Saw this at a contest one day. Suggested the flyer turn the nose down. He informed me that he had a clunk tank. Duh I thought. I should have known that. That's a positive thing to know about a clunk tank, it will always give you fuel.

>However, it will not work with a clunk tank.

Huh! the clunk will drop down a little but not go to the front and if it's anything smaller than an 8 ounce tank the clunk will pretty much stay put, supported by the fuel line. It will run longer with the nose down than a hard tank but will quit before you get tired of holding the airplane.

I find the remote needle the best bet. I am going to have all my angines equiped with one.

One of the local giys soldered a toothed wheel to the needle. To adjust he just rolled the wheel back and forth.

Fox makes a remote NVA I would go with that.Safety first See YA NEAL:)

Paul,
Several years ago a friend of mine said that he was havin' the same problem..
The way that he solved it was get the needle set here he could start the engine, then with about 6-8 inches of fuel tubin' between engine and tank he would raise the tank to richen it or lower the tank to lean it out..
I now use this method to break-in all my engines..
It serves two purposes, keeps the fingers (need for buildin') and is real good for breakin' in engines....
Good luck;)

If it is on a model, in addition to pointing the nose down, close off the tank vent(s) with a finger or as needed. Found this out for diesels - they seem to run on the vapors of the ether even when the fuel pickup is out of the liquid. If you are breaking it in on a bench, pinching off the fuel line is usually quickest and safest, though.