Spinner size for NOBLER ARF?

What size spinner is used on the Nobler ARF? Is there a particular brand that is best for that plane?
Thanks, in advance
Nick Vanmatre

I beleive the manual calls for 1 3/4 in spinner. I used a plastic spinner from Tower. I've seen people adapt an old Veco spinner.

Quite right about the size.....any spinner will do the trick..the lighter the better tho.....go for plastic rather then aluminium

These models can tend to come out noseheavy due to modern engines, mufflers, etc. Thread # 7009 shows a nice, light spinner from Great Planes, available from Tower, a bit more $ than all plastic, but WAY better. http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dcforum/DCForumID1/7009.html
Since that thread, I've noticed pictures of quite a few models that are using this unit. It is available only in 2 blade, and 4 colors, unfortunately. The correct diameter for the ARF Nobler is 1.75". Steve

1.75" = 1 3/4"

And if you use 1/8" Alum pads, 1 1/2" spinner is not a bad idea...
EricV

I don't understand your comment about alum pads? I am not familiar with that kind of a pad. Could you please provide a little more info? Thank you all for all the info. I thought my question would be easy to answer, but like lots of things, it seems there is usually more than meets the eye...
Thank you all,
Nick V

Do the alum pads cause the nose to pucker and accommodate the 1.5" spinner?

My Nobler ARF with a Fox 35 Needed all the nose weight possible, True Turn spinners can be used with Prather nose weights, on the plastic spinners uou can't use weights, and 1 3/4 inch is the correct spinner. Also plastic lines up with the cowl different than the metal,one can't switch from metal to plastic but can be switched from plastic to metal it only leaves about a 1/4 inch space between cowl and backplate. There are more variations as to weight with a metal spinner. See Ya NEAL P.S. Another fact is the hubs of some props will notfit the 1 3/4 PlASTIC spinners.If you use pads plan on shims for the tank.If the Motor drop's 1/8 inch the tank has to be droped 1/8 inch, atleast in My Nobler the Tank & Engine have to be level to start with for even engine runs

Could you please explain what you mean when you say that "If you use pads, plan on using shims on your tank."
Thank you,
Nick Vanmatre

The Chinese wood used for the engine mounts is kinda soft, so it would be nice to put an aluminum pad under the lugs, to spread the load. This is fairly standard practise on kit and scratch-built models, but the Noblarf has this botched. Maybe the Brodak ARFs will have engine pads incuded? It would be a nice touch.

I would only add that if you use the plastic tank with a fixed (not clunked) uniflow vent (the inside end), you can adjust the tube height to adjust the tank "height". One of several nice things about plastic tanks. Steve

Pads add 1/16 to 1/8 inch to the motor mounts on a full body plane,so 1/16 to 1/8 has to be added to the floor of the tank area. My Nobler has the tank removeable from the front so I make the tank compartment 1/4 inch lower so I can shim the tank up or down. I crashed my Nobler in at a 45 degree angle and the motor mounts did not break.The only time I use engine pads is to line up the spinner. See Ya Neal:)

>The correct diameter for
>the ARF Nobler is 1.75". Steve

Dang! I just passed up a chance to snatch a 1-3/4" Veco aluminum spinner for $3 at an R/C swap meet last week!

>>The correct diameter for
>>the ARF Nobler is 1.75". Steve
>
>Dang! I just passed up a chance to snatch a 1-3/4" Veco
>aluminum spinner for $3 at an R/C swap meet last week!

That's OK, Steve, because you can get one on ebay right now, for only another $18 (and rising?). Hey, it is NIB.

I used a plastic spinner from SIG in the recommended size. It worked with a top-flight wood prop (11/4). SIG states that these spinner will work with APC props without modifications. Just for information a 11/4 APC will not fit with out modification. Dubro spinners are nice but require a lot of cutting to get the props to insert. Too much work and there are balance concerns.

What is going to work for you depends on what engine you use and where you mount it.

My Nobler ARF is powered with a Brodak 40 and it is mounted back in the motor mounts. I used a Fox 1/2" extension, Top-Flight 11/4 wood prop, and a plastic Sig spinner 1.75. This is a light set up. I had to scrap the Brodak tougne muffler and use the original. This put my CG almost dead on and required no tail weight. Center of gravity was checked using the "Great Planes" ruler, magic marker, finger tips, and eye ball kit.

If I use an aluminum spinner at a later date, (which I do like the looks of), I will have to change the muffler set up.

Good luck on your Nobler.

>I used a plastic spinner from SIG in the recommended size.
>It worked with a top-flight wood prop (11/4). SIG states
>that these spinner will work with APC props without
>modifications. Just for information a 11/4 APC will not fit
>with out modification.

I doubt any spinner manufacturer intented a user to install an 11" prop in a 1-3/4" spinner. I have an R/C trainer (Sig LT-40) with a Sig supplied 2" spinner. An APC 11x5 prop fits just fine.

It is worth noting that not all plastic spinners extend to the rear, in back of drive washer. (I need a picture badly.) Try this: Not all plastic spinner backplates are deeply cuffed, extending past face of drive washer when installed on an engine.

So I use either Tower or SIG (latter preferred) plastic spinners as the backplate is flush across its rear face, including seat for drive washer.

If the model is nose-heavy, a plastic piece is utilized. If tail-heavy I dig into my bag of Tru-Turn aluminum spinners. Something in between might get a lightened Tru-Turn bolted on. In either case, fuselage-to-spinner clearance is the same.

With all this talk about spinners, you guys are balancing these things. Aren't you? Say what?

Daniel: If you'll look at the Great Planes plastic spinner with aluminum backplate, you won't likely use any other kind of plastic spinner again. The backplate is flat, so you could change to a Tru-Turn without a problem, and it is thin, so you don't run out of threads on the crankshaft. If you have trouble clocking the prop and cone, you could drill & tap holes 2-56, to provide prop indexing pins like the usual plastic spinners have. Use short pieces of pushrod stock, or cut the heads off some screws. Red Loctite should keep them in place without a nut. Steve

http://www.nwskyraiders.com/index.html

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I recently picked up a couple of these spinners and the only thing I don't like is the sandpaper disks to keep everything from slipping. I am going to try to make a knurling tool using the thumb wheel striker from a throw away lighter. If this works I should be able to knurl the front and back of the back plate and do away with the sandpaper disks. We will see as I am planning on using one of these on my Skylark.