Stuka Stunt Control Line Forum
Archive, 2000–2021 · recovered from the Internet Archive
Forums › Stuka Stunt Main Forum

Aeropoxy mixing ratio

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 11 of 11 known posts recovered

Crist Rigotti · Jan 24, 2004 02:30 PM

#0 source
Uh... this might sound like a stupid question but the directions say to mix 2:1 by weight. No problems there, I use my gram scale with De's 10:1 multiplier. My question is judging from the size of the jars, the brown is the 1 (part A) and the white is the 2 (part B)?

brown 1 white 2 right?

Thanks

Crist Rigotti
"A driver trying to be a pilot."
http://www.clguy.com

Dick Fowler · Jan 24, 2004 02:59 PM

#1 source
Yep

Crist Rigotti · Jan 24, 2004 03:47 PM

#2 source
Thanks, now on to the fillets!

Crist Rigotti
"A driver trying to be a pilot."
http://www.clguy.com

Dr Spark · Jan 25, 2004 07:33 PM

#3 source
My problem is: my electronic scale measures in ounces and tenths. This is OK for weighing finished models, motors, etc., but no good for tiny stuff like a sheet of balsa or a dollop of Aeropoxy Light.

So I mixed up the Aeropoxy as best I could. It took 3 days to set, and even then was slightly gummy. My best efforts to smooth the stuff with the recommended rubbing alcohol worked pretty well, but final sanding was as traumatic as was the old SIG EPOXOLITE.

If we can send a man to the moon, why can't we invent a fillet material that is easy and idiot-proof (no jokes, please--- I'm not in the mood)..

Floyd

Bob Reeves · Jan 26, 2004 04:27 AM

#4 source
I made a little balance beam out of scrap I had laying around that is offset 2 to 1 and balanced on razor blades. I set it up so it's accurate with a business card on each end. I just scoop however much material I think I will need on to a business card, sit it on the scale then start adding hardener to a business card on the other end till it balances.

mcm · Jan 26, 2004 07:49 AM

#5 source
I'd stumble and catch myself palm-down on the blades. Great idea for a non-klutz, though. Wonder if I could do that with magnets?

Brad Smith · Jan 26, 2004 11:50 PM

#7 source
LAST EDITED ON Jan-26-04 AT 11:50 PM (CDT)
 
show off. i think i could get hurt with that hey hows the skylark coming ?

i crash i fix i fly i crash again see ya Brad Smith

Ty Marcucci · Jan 26, 2004 11:08 PM

#6 source
Floyd, use leather fillets. They do work, are quick, inert, look great, no sanding, no reaction with dope, PC, epoxy, etc.

Dr Spark · Jan 27, 2004 02:23 PM

#10 source
Ty. I actually have a stock of leather fillets. I used them back in the '40s and they are again available. I was under the impression that the leather would be a bit heavier than Aeropoxy, but now I'm not so sure.

Leather is great, and almost no filler is required, except to feather the edges.

Floyd

F4FGuy · Jan 27, 2004 01:45 AM

#8 source

>If we can send a man to the moon, why can't we invent a
>fillet material that is easy and idiot-proof (no jokes,
>please--- I'm not in the mood)..
>
>Floyd

Ron B.
F4Fguy

They did Floyd,it's called Aeropoxy(no joke)see Bob Reeves reply below(#4).The stuff works perfectly,IF you mix it right.

Ron B.

Crist Rigotti · Jan 27, 2004 07:57 AM

#9 source
Well the fillets are done. After drying overnight I sanded them. They still felt a bit "rubbery" and when sanded the "dust" tended to form little worms. They did sand easily and smooth. The follwing day I sanded them again and sure enough they sanded well and produced a dust. The stuff is very easy to work with and produced very nice fillets. Just be a bit patient and let them dry long enough and they will sand well. I build in my basement and it is a bit cool down there and that's why they took a little longer to dry.

Crist Rigotti
"A driver trying to be a pilot."
http://www.clguy.com