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Oh No! Disaster!

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Al Rabe · Jan 29, 2004 04:45 PM

#0 source
LAST EDITED ON Jan-30-04 AT 12:05 PM (CDT)
 
This can’t be happening to me! Major screw up!

It has been apparent since I built the flaps for Sanggletooth that there was something wrong with the appearance of the airplane. It looked much better with the flaps off. For awhile, I thought I might have used incorrect ribs and wound up with too large a wing chord. Then I thought, maybe it was just that the airplane was missing the large spinner. It was tethered to the corner of the work table with a mounting bracket screwed to the engine mounts inside the engine compartment. I dismounted the airplane and installed the engine, cowling prop and spinner. It still looked seriously out of proportion, somehow.

I got the original Snaggletooth down from the wall and sat both Mustangs side by side on the floor. It was even more apparent something was wrong. I save pieces of interesting airplane crash parts for information and comparison. I dug out the broken fuselages of the first Snaggletooth series, the blue Mustang V, E2-S, and the green Mustang VII, G4-G. Using these two fuselages and the original Mustan VI, Snaggletooth, I determined the fuselage of Snagletooth 2 was too short! It was supposed to be ½” longer than the other three airplanes. Snaggletooth 2 was going to have approximately double the power of the original Snaggletooth. I was concerned with the possible destabilizing effect of the increased power on the longitudinal stability of Snaggletooth 2. The extra length is intended to correct this.

Instead of being ½” longer than its sister ships, it was ½” shorter, a 1” mistake. How could I have possibly made a 1” mistake in laying out the moments of Snaggletooth 2? It took a while to figure out. First, all three of the other airplanes of the Snaggletooth series had 16 ½” tail moments (a term not technically correct, but in this case, Means the distance from the flap hinge to the elevator hinge). Snaggletooth 2 was only 16”. I got out the plans for the first Sanggletooth Mustang, E2-S. That drawing showed a 16” tail moment and I based the drawing of Snaggletooth 2 on that original drawing. Adding ½” to that drawing gave me a moment of 16 ½” after the extra 1/2" was added. Surprise, none of the three sister ships used the original design moment of 16”. They were all 16 ½”. I don’t remember why or when I built those airplanes all with a tail moment ½” longer than the plans. It was thirty years ago and I suspect I saw then what I see now. The airplane looked out of proportion. The tail was too short.

OK that is just half of the story. Snaggletooth 2 with its extra ½” should have been exactly the same length as its sister ships, but instead, it was ½” shorter instead of being the same length or ½” longer. I finally figured out what happened to the other ½”. When I draw my plans, I typically copy the first pencil drawing. Then as significant changes are made I update the copy and use one of the new copies to make more changes as the need arises. By now I’m using 4th generation copies. I never thought much about distortions in the copy process. I knew they were under 1%, so I never worried much about them. When I measured my latest drawing, the fuselage on my latest plans was about an inch and half shorter than the original drawing. I had been accumulating 1% errors with each new changed copy. This shortened the tail moment almost exactly ½”. A 1% error is 1/4" in 25" and the fulselage is about 40" long. I was losing almost 3/8" every time I copied the plans. It could only happen to me.

Well, I fixed the drawing and ran new copies at 103% to restore the proper dimensions to the latest drawing. This not only restores the ½” to the tail moment, but now, the extra ½" finally brings the tail moment of Snagggletooth 2 to 17". The 17” tail moment does increase the actual Snaggletooth's tail moment by 1/2" as intended.

But what about Snaggletooth 2 with its 16” tail moment. It is about to get its short aft fuselage cut off, go back into the jig and have a new aft fuselage built, complete with new stabilizer and vertical fin, which I can’t save. It will be an interesting project. I’ll keep updating Stuka Stunt for those interested in the progress of the rebuild. Snaggletooth 2 looks like hell. It is the prototype for the new updated, technologically improved Snaggletooth 2. It has to conform. It is time to bite the bullet and reach for the saw. I have formed a plan for the rebuild which saves most of the existing structure. With luck, I’ll lose only about a week. Stand by.

Al

Ted Fancher · Jan 29, 2004 05:01 PM

#1 source
For those unfortunate enough not to have seen it fly, that Mustang in the black and white shot was, IMHO, Al's best flying one of the bunch. He took some not particularly deserved static years ago about his ships being "soft" in corners etc. I never agreed with that generalization and this airplane pretty much put the lie to any such suggestion.

It flew great.

Ted

mcm · Jan 29, 2004 05:04 PM

#2 source
Ouch. It doesn't look much out of proportion to me. Tell you what, mail it to me and start over, OK?

godzilla · Jan 29, 2004 06:49 PM

#7 source
>For those unfortunate enough not to have seen it fly, that
>Mustang in the black and white shot was, IMHO, Al's best
>flying one of the bunch. He took some not particularly
>deserved static years ago about his ships being "soft" in
>corners etc. I never agreed with that generalization and
>this airplane pretty much put the lie to any such
>suggestion.
>
>It flew great.

I keep hearing that too, and it always seems to come from the same direction... huh, weird...

I saw Al fly at our last contest. He flew the BBQB. It's hard to compliment Al, as he is a very complex personality, but I am going to try...

... there were more than a few good nationally ranked fliers at this contest. I was standing next to Frank McMillan. Al put in flight, I dare say it was the best of weekend...

At the end of the clover I said, "pretty dang salty".
Frank said, "did you say soft?"
I said, "no, I said salty, I did not see any soft".

It was certainly plenty "hard enough"...

There Al, I am through bragging on you. Maybe you could respond to one of my post sometime, huh?


The City Smasher

Steven Yampolsky · Jan 29, 2004 05:20 PM

#3 source
With that heater on full blast, are you sure it didn't just shrink?

But seriously, sorry to hear about the mishap.

Steven Yampolsky

cyberflyer · Jan 29, 2004 05:38 PM

Disaster Movie#4 source

What an object lesson for us retread/newbie/wannabies.

I was just musing the other night about an airframe I've hauled around from location to location for, um, twenty years at least. It was more or less intact, although uncovered, for all that time. During the last move, a book fell on the wing and shattered the spars, a number of ribs and broke off the remnant.

Now I had already observed that there were design errors built into the airframe during the first round of construction in the early '80's that would dictate taking the plane partially apart.

When I was a kid, the only focus was on assembly. You built to put things together, not take them apart. If you shattered the airframe against the ground ( unless it was a clean break one could simply epoxy back together), that was it. the engine, tank and wheels came off and the rest it went in the trash barrel. There was another $6.95 Flight Streak kit down at the hobby shop.

So I came away with the vague feeling that 'disassembling' a partially built airframe was somehow wrong, going in reverse gear. Hence I was getting close to throwing this long harbored partially built airframe away, since (a) it was broke and (b) I'll have to take it farther apart to get to where I can put it farther together.

Now Al comes along and tells us all he's going to get out the saw and cut the tail off an airframe that looks close to going to finish just to rebuild the whole thing so he can move the tail back a half an inch.

That says a lot.

Getting it as right as you can is the goal.

Accept no substitutes.

Given how much better his finishes are than anything I ever produced, I can see where he doesn't want to spend the time to put one on an airframe that is not what he designed it to be.

But until I read his post I would not have thought of so drastic an action to un-do a mistake.

Tip of the hat, Al.

Cy.

The Cat Whisperer

Larry Cunningham · Jan 29, 2004 06:06 PM

RE: Disaster Movie#5 source
Sorry to hear about the mistake, Al. I know it's no consolation, but your ship is absolutely gorgeous to my eyes.

This sort of error reminds me of a theory about the All American's 2" longer inboard wing panel - that someone really meant to make it 1" longer, so they slid the wing 1" to the left..

[photo not recovered: 3e69bb3870f12ad5.jpg]

"I watched the Indy 500, and I was thinking that if they left earlier they wouldn't have to go so fast." - Steven Wright

FET · Jan 29, 2004 06:12 PM

RE: Disaster Movie#6 source
I think Al made the mistake on purpose, in order to have an excuse to keep showing us his beautiful creations and provide us with his expert opinions. Thanks Amigo.

rootbeard · Jan 29, 2004 09:05 PM

RE: Disaster Movie#8 source
I would be proud to have that screwed up plane in my hanger.

Just kidding Al, you do nice work.

Thanks
Paul

LeagueCityRalph · Jan 30, 2004 06:52 AM

Kit Price#12 source
Now look, whippersnapper - $6.95 was for the Nobler; the Flite Streak was $3.95!

Ralph Wenzel

LNeumann · Jan 30, 2004 09:03 AM

RE: Kit Price#13 source
>Now look, whippersnapper - $6.95 was for the Nobler; the
>Flite Streak was $3.95!

You are still a little young in the gills, too, I see. I remember when they first came out and the Nobler was a whopping (out of my league) $ 5.95 and the Flite Streak (and Ringmaster and Mustangs--got a couple of them) were still a bit high at $2.95. I was delivering newspapers for a nickel a week per customer at the time. That's all week. Every day. A nickel. Them airplanes were expensive!

Fly high. Don't crash. I still got 'em. Both of 'em.

Leonard Neumann

Howard Rush · Jan 29, 2004 10:28 PM

#9 source
Al, this is a classical opportunity for the application of theory. You just come up with theory that fits what you have already done in practice. For example, the added flywheel effect of the larger prop turned by the mightier engine provides stability enabling a shorter tail.

I look forward to seeing the finished product. If it's anything close to the BBQB, it'll be a humdinger.

Al Rabe · Jan 30, 2004 10:48 AM

#14 source
LAST EDITED ON Jan-30-04 AT 03:19 PM (CDT)
 
Howard,

At first I didn't understand the thrust of your comments. Yes I could have "justified" the shorter tail moment based on "new" theories of stability. Sorry for being so dense.

I didn't exactly fit the theory to the practice, and I'm not an engineer, but I do observe. Increasing power on propeller driven airplanes usually entailed an increase in the length of the tail (P-40N) or larger tail surfaces. See below, The 27 litre Merlin Spitfire and the 36.7 litre Griffon Spitfire. Looks to me like a little more tail moment or area is appropriate, so I added 1/2" to the tail moment.

Al

LNeumann · Jan 30, 2004 01:23 PM

#15 source
A question that Matt has brought up, and I never thought too much about it until then, but how are you measuring your tail moment? This is normally done from flap hingeline to elevator hingeline, but this has a swept forward trailing edge. Are you averaging the location of that hingeline, or are you measuring at the fuselage?

Leonard Neumann

Al Rabe · Jan 30, 2004 01:53 PM

#17 source
Leonard,

When I design I use tail moments more or less correctly, that is from the Quarter chord of the wing, including flaps, to the quarter chord of the empanage(horizontal tail group). This discussion uses "tail moment" in the typical stunt meaning or from the wing ROOT hinge line to the elevator hinge line. My airplanes nearly all have wing/flap hinge lines swept forward 2", so my airplanes have about an inch longer tail moment if the average wing hinge is used.

Al

Randy · Jan 30, 2004 12:00 AM

#10 source
Well, I feel much better about my cowl screwup now. Thanks AL. All I had to do was fix it and repaint.

Randy Powell

SRiese5283 · Jan 30, 2004 01:45 AM

#11 source
No way AL..

Time to add an extension to the engine and a false nose.

Scott Riese

Jim Pollock · Jan 30, 2004 01:37 PM

#16 source
Al,

Sorry to hear about the accidental fuselage shortening. It takes one HE MAN to admit that kind error! Hopefully, your fuselage design will allow for adding a 1" section just forward of the stabalizer? That should be doable, right?? Kind of reminds me when I droped my Intrepid off a wire while painting clear and broke the fuselage in half just ahead of the stabalizer. Took me a while to get that put back together, but fly it does - 5 years old now!

Jim Pollock

cwmcmillin · Jan 30, 2004 03:17 PM

#18 source
Al,
Really great time to add the scale fuselage production break line to graft on the new section. You won't have to fill it either!
Chris...

Al Rabe · Jan 30, 2004 06:40 PM

#19 source
LAST EDITED ON Jan-30-04 AT 06:50 PM (CDT)
 
And so it begins. It will be awhile before I get the airplane on the jig and begin to rebuild. First I will have to build a new stab and vertical fin. I have already pulled the elevator horn off the old stab and trashed the remains. Depending on my instructing work load, it should start to go back together Monday or Tuesday. My goal is to make the repairs with no gain in weight. I've done it before.

Al

Bob Reeves · Jan 30, 2004 06:55 PM

#20 source
Hi Al,

Man it hurts just to see this, best of luck in your re-build.

Bob

Al Rabe · Feb 02, 2004 06:58 PM

#21 source
LAST EDITED ON Feb-02-04 AT 10:03 PM (CDT)
 
I built the new tail surfaces first. It was easier with the fuselage out of the way. Because the control surfaces were already finished the new stabilizer and vertical fin had to be adjusted for optimum fit.

The three photos below show the stabilizer frame with elevators attached, the vertical fin with the rudder attached and the new laser cut bulkheads and jig pockets to finish the repair.

Actually, I goofed. My correction to the drawing was 103% and should have been less than 102%. Not only are the drawings slightly out of size, they are slightly out of proportion because full size modifications to the drawing were also enlarged. These drawings are not really of use to me. I have about 12 of them. I also have about 10 of the last revision where the fuselage is an inch too short. I don't think these drawings are useful in the building sense but they are too pretty to just throw away. I'll give one to anyone willing to return postage.

Al

Charlie Chan · Feb 02, 2004 10:27 PM

#22 source
Question Please
What is the whitish stuff on the stab(THE NEW STAB)
Is it a filler?
If so , what is it?
Regards
Charlie Pate

Charlie Pate

Al Rabe · Feb 02, 2004 11:11 PM

#23 source
Charlie,

It is question of photo contrast. That photo shows a wooden stab with masking tape on the elading edge.

Al

greatcircle · Feb 07, 2004 02:43 PM

#24 source
>This can’t be happening to me! Major screw up!

Would that MY screw ups looked half so good!

The tail was too short.

I have been accused of that, too!

It could only happen to me.

Wanna bet? Measure twice, cut once, measure twice.....

Sooooo, THAT'S the Snaggletooth? NIIIIICE!

Carl

Al Rabe · Feb 07, 2004 03:06 PM

#25 source
LAST EDITED ON Feb-08-04 AT 08:48 AM (CDT)
 
I got slowed up a bit this week with work at Bombardier where I had to give some instruction and a proficiency check.

Now back to important stuff.

I'm making progress now.

The first photo is of the Snaggletooth radiator assembly. When I stretched the fuselage, it required more than just moving the radiator back. The new position required the shape to be subtly slimmed so I ground off a bit from the bottom to match the new contour.
The second photo shows the rebuilt radiator.
The third photo shows the airplane going back into the jig I used to originally build and align the airplane. The wing jig accurately returns the fuselage to an exact alignment of the fuselage in yaw and roll. The fuselage jig returns the airplane to an exact alignment in pitch and locates the new replacement parts.
The fourth photo shows how the fuselage is being lengthened with gaps behind the wing trailing edge and a gap ahead of the stab leading edge bulkhead.
The fifth photo shows the beginning alignment of the fuselage. It is almost ready to start gluing in new pieces for adjustment and adding new structure to replace old. I'm guessing everything is aligned within the width of a pencil line. Even if it was off, which I doubt, it wouldn't have any affect on the alignment of the tail surfaces. They will be aligned with their own independent jig.
The last photo is of my finished new tail surfaces. I tried very hard to reduce their weight but there wasn't much fat. I saved 2 grams. The new set,Stabilizer, elevators, vertical fin and rudder, hinges and horn, weigh 60 grams instead of 62. More will be saved by eliminating the shoulder longerons. So far I've saved 8 grams. I'm trying for 14 grams or 1/2 ounce saved which will be eaten up with a bit of added balsa and adhesives. I seem to be on track to complete the repair with no weight gain.
Well, I keep adding photos. This one shows most or the modifications completed. Now it is ready for mounting the stab and making a new pushrod.
One last photo, then I'm hung up until a trip to the local hobby shop after church to get another carbon pushrodt tube. This one shows the stab, in it's jig, fitted to the fuselage awaiting the elevator pushrod. Maybe today I can get the control system aligned and operational again.

It proceeds. By Monday, I should need new molded fuselage top pieces.

Al

Larry Cunningham · Feb 07, 2004 03:53 PM

#26 source
Al, even in pieces, it's dripping with Zen!

What a gorgeous structure.

[photo not recovered: 3e69bb3870f12ad5.jpg]

"It's not whether you get knocked down. It's whether you get up again." -Vince Lombardi

gso · Feb 08, 2004 11:44 AM

#27 source
Al,
Sorry about the problem on your new bird. But I`d like a set of the plans your talking about.I`ll be glad to send you the return postage.

The Tony Guy
Gordan Delaney

Gordan Delaney

Al Rabe · Feb 08, 2004 02:25 PM

#29 source
OK, Gordan, I have a few left.

Al

Larry Cunningham · Feb 08, 2004 12:09 PM

#28 source
Al, your digital camera has been a real boon to all of us! Thanks for taking the time to document this work. Seeing it ought to encourage many people to go ahead and fix such things.

[photo not recovered: 3e69bb3870f12ad5.jpg]

"Te audire no possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure." (I can't hear you. I have a banana in my ear.)

Eduardo · Feb 10, 2004 09:55 AM

#30 source
Al Rabe,

Very well documented. I did have the pleasure to see your P51 Mustang fly back in Woodvale (1978 WCC in England) and being part of the brazilian team at that time, I was just speechless to see a model that kind perform so well.

Attached is a photo I took at that event and which is part of my website.

That is the living proof that wanting too badly is a very important key element in succeeding.

Congratulations even though sometimes there are thorns to pass by.

Eduardo Affonso
www.aeromodelos.net

Al Rabe · Feb 10, 2004 10:56 AM

#31 source
LAST EDITED ON Feb-10-04 AT 10:55 PM (CDT)
 
Yup, That is ole Snaggletooth in its (almost) moment of glory, second at the 1978 World Championships.

Here is the latest photo of Snaggletooth 2 repairs. I had decided to eliminate the shoulder longerons and use molded pieces which would extended down to the thrust line and under the stabilizer. I rejected this idea for two reasons. First, after shaping the shoulder longerons to fit the bottom of the stab, they were thin and too weak to risk gluing the stab to. Also it would have been a bitch of a job to fit the larger molded pieces to the thrust line, top longeron and bottom of the stab with accuracy. So I added the side pieces up to the shoulder longeron. This made it easy to fit the stab saddle before gluing the stab in place. With the side pieces in place, I will grind away almost all of the shoulder longerons leaving just a bit to locate the top molded pieces. I'm still trying to get four more grams out of unnecessary structure.

The elevator pushrod was made to very close measurements. It is basically a carbon tube with wire ends. The final adjustment to the stab location was to move the stab 1/64" forward to exactly align the elevators with a measured Gage (a piece of balsa which is glued to the jig base and just touches the inboard end of the left elevator when the flaps are exactly neutral). The flaps also have a Gage. There is a piece of brass tubing over the flap horn wire extending toward the rear of the airplane. My flap gage is a piece of balsa glued to the table which fits exactly the same when placed under the front of the brass tubing or the rear of the brass tubing to insure the absolute "0" alignment o

Bill Little · Feb 11, 2004 09:49 AM

later removed from the forum#32 source
Al,
The series on your repair have been great. Seeing how you jig build, and the use of laser cut parts are inspiring, and provoke many ideas on how to "copy" your efforts.
Probably the greatest impact this has had on me, recently, was that I discovered a pronounced "crook" from the leading edge forward on the new plane I am building. After seeing what you were doing, I "broke" everything apart and set it back up straight. Don't know how it occured since the fuse was glued to a glass table on which it was built.
Thanks for the series, the repair looks great.
Bill <><

Just an Old Advanced flyer.

Gary Widmer · Feb 11, 2004 02:35 PM

later removed from the forum#36 source
Al,

Since Klasskote only offers a limited number of colors, are you planning to blend your own or just use the stock ones? I understand that you can use primary colors to come up with almost anything, but it seems like voodoo to me. I'll be very interested to see what you think about Klasskote after you've used it. Keep us posted.

Gary

Al Rabe · Feb 11, 2004 04:23 PM

later removed from the forumedited#39 source
Randy,

I was talking about the one step acrylic lacquer primer surfacer (grey). It can be sanded in about 20 minutes and is easy to sand, but...... I would imagine that any catalyzed product such as your K-36? would be much less subject to settling as the thinners escape over time. How does your stuff sand? Superpoxy sands OK, not great, but OK.

Polycrilic scares me. It is water based and causes an initial swelling of the wood. I'm told that the swelling is minor and returns to its original shape before hardening. Is that before the swelling distorts my molded parts and pops the wing skin loose from the ribs?

Al

Al Rabe · Feb 14, 2004 11:11 AM

later removed from the forumedited#41 source
Repairs are complete. The drawings are corrected.

Now to get back to finishing the airplane. There was no weight gain and I'm satisfied that I did the right thing by making the necessary modification.

Its not as pretty as the Millennium but then, it is a Snaggletooth. The Millennium has better lines because it is a thirty year later design with a deeper fuselage and better, more accurate lines while retaining competition capability. It is 10% bigger and designed for today's modern engines.

Still, for a thirty year old design (adjusted), I am well pleased with the result. Except the much larger engine and half inch longer tail, this is the same airplane which placed 2nd at the 1978 World Championship at Woodvale, England. Too often these Snaggletooth series airplanes are thought of as being more scale than competitive stunters. To refute that idea, here are the results of that World Championship contest.

1st, Hunt 2963
2nd, Rabe 2954
4th, McDonald (world Champ) 2887
5th, Gieseke (World Champ) 2875
Werwage, (World Champ) did not qualify for the team. Billon (France) was 7th.
Japan's Champ, Hara (6th,2832), probably had something to do with the "Evolution......" article being reprinted in its entirety in Japan. He flew the airplane and was apparently impressed. Photos below from the Japanese magazine show both Hara and me flying Snaggletooth.

I expect I'm going to have a lot of fun flying the new Sanggletooth. Also, there are a couple being built to reenter the design into the competition arena.

I need to hollow wing tips and install the tip weight box and leadout guide, but it is cold in the garage and snowing here in Dallas (a rare event). I can get away with sanding and a bit of air brushing in the house, but to attempt to hollow wing tips with my usual procedure of using a Dremel sanding drum would likely push the cost/ benefits ratio to a negative value. (Read, irritation of usually tolerant wife)

I'm gonna go paint a pilot.

Al

Tim McTigue · Feb 14, 2004 11:39 AM

later removed from the forum#42 source
Al,

I do hope I'll be reading this as a series of articles in an upcoming Stunt News...