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Nobler ARF Tank

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 4 of 4 known posts recovered

Dave · Feb 01, 2004 08:00 AM

#0 source
I received the Top Flite ARF Nobler and i intend to install on it a Fox 35

The tank supplied is the plastic one with clunk.

Anyhow the tank centerline doesn't match the Fox spray bar.

I intend to modify the tank in order to get the Uniflow arrangement, will this be enough to fix the problem of the difference of centerline between tank and spraybar?

thank you for your help

David

Allen Brickhaus · Feb 01, 2004 09:22 AM

#1 source
I got the first of three columns printed on the Nobler in FM this month. One of my concerns was the tank. What I decided to do is install an RST four ounce soft tank fitted between the motor mounts. Simply turn the tank 90 degrees so the width now becomes the height. It will snugly fit between the mounts. I then put balsa shims between the tank the top block and thus the tank can be shimmed up or down to get the proper inside and outside turn speeds.

My Byron Barker Magnum 36XL uses 3 3/4 ounces of fuel for just under 7 minutes and 40 seconds of full run time. Spent some 45 flights with it at Roy Trantham's house in Palm City and at the KOI in Jacksonville. So far am plesed with the Nobler except the upgrades mentioned in my column.

Had to strengthen the motor mounts by filleting micro balloons and thin CyA on the upper and lower areas of where the mounts meet the fuselage side. Yes, I did add some balsa blocks to the upper mount area forward of F-1, but that was still not enough bracing.

Hope to get an uncovered Oriental from John Brodak when they are available to the general public. Saw examples at the KOI and like what I saw of the Oriental, profile Cardinal and Clown.

Allen Brickhaus

Alan Hahn · Feb 01, 2004 11:09 AM

#2 source
LAST EDITED ON Feb-01-04 AT 11:23 AM (CDT)
 
What matters is where the uniflow vent is set, relative to the engine spraybar. I try to put a bend in the outer part of the brass (better to use copper!) tube, which points the same way the internal bend is. Then by using a pair of needle nose pliers or a pair of hemostats, I can tweak the internal height of the uniflow vent (via the exit cutout in the back of the cowl)

However it doesn't hurt to try an get the tank as centered as possible.

p.s. , I should mention that I do not tie my uniflow to the clunk like a lot of guys do. Instead I simply bend it to reside near the front of the plastic tank. I think that putting it near the front of the tank minimizes the change in fuel head when the nose sticks up (or down). Also it avoids getting the clunk fuel line tubing tangled with the uniflow vent (probably the more important reason).

p.s. p.s. Even with that all said, I finally replaced my original (not the stock one) plastic tank in the Arf Nobler with a Brodak metal uniflow. I think this is described by Ty in the Arf Nobler Review on the Review forum. In order to install this tank, I had to cutout the ply firewall to slide the tank in. This was the tank I was using during the TreeTown and Peoria Contests. I think people will agree that the engine (Brodak40) and tank combo waqs working fine---even tho' my flying left a lot to be desired!

Alan

Bob Reeves · Feb 01, 2004 11:40 AM

#3 source
LAST EDITED ON Feb-01-04 AT 11:41 AM (CDT)
 
I second Alan's uniflow/clunk setup. I tried it first in my ARF Nobler with a round 4 ounce clunk tank. ran the uniflow vent about half way back and bent it so it just touches the outside of the tank. Adjusting the position of the tube fixed my upright/inverted lap times.

Liked it so well I did the same thing with a 6 ounce slant front tank in my Legacy. The slant front tank was a bit of a bear getting the tubes bent but it works great.