Are polyurethane glues fuelproof?

I had a chance to use Gorilla glue to bond wood and styrofoam on my combat models, and I love it. It is very strong, foams to fill the gap (only if you wet the surface), doesn't require mixing, sands well, and bonds pretty much anything. I understand that the Titebond polyurethane glue is just as good, I just haven't found it at the local Lowe's.
Sounds like it could replace epoxy in many places.... only if I knew that it is fuelproof.

Anybody?...

Hi Mike,

I sure hope it is. My two latest projects have foam wings with Poly-U attaching the balsa sheets. I used Elmers.

I don't think so. I seem to remember 'zilla stating that
polycrylic glue is NOT FUEL PROOF! Sorry about that.

>I don't think so. I seem to remember 'zilla stating that
>polycrylic glue is NOT FUEL PROOF! Sorry about that.
>
>Jim Pollock

Polycrylic is not fuel proof. However, Polycrylic is not glue.

Polyurethane glue... I don't know. I use it for fuselage doublers and wing skins. Never painted it on the outside of my plane and poured fuel on it.

Seems to be fuel proof...

I use it for fuselage
>doublers and wing skins. Never painted it on the outside of
>my plane and poured fuel on it.

I'm not planning on painting with it, smarty pants. But when hot exhaust scum finds its way to inside of your doublers through a crack, and they delaminate in flight, my question may start making sense.

Why don't you just try it? Plop some PolyU on a piece of metal, let it cure a day or so, dunk into some 15% fuel, see if it holds together.

Isn't that cheating? Recommending actual "test it for yourself" instead of relying on the advice of all us expertt? What are you, some sort of pinko, revisionist, reactionary?

"Those who think they know everything are highly irritating to those of us who really do." (Wish I knew who thought that one up)

"I am occasionaly wrong, but never unsure" (Another good one that some of us should well consider)

yep.

Of course let the rest of us lazy b*****ds know the results!

Yes I tried 3 different brands. Soaked the wood in 25 percent nitro over-night. When breaking the pieces apart the joint did not fail. The pieces broke away from the glue line.

>Yes I tried 3 different brands. Soaked the wood in 25
>percent nitro over-night. When breaking the pieces apart
>the joint did not fail. The pieces broke away from the glue
>line.
>
>Tom Perry

That says "fuel proof" to me...

I am a skeptic, can't you tell?

Not only is is fuel proof(see T Perry's post) but it is the BEST stuff there is for sealing the edges of covering around the engine/motor mount. Run a very thin bead along the joint, smear it around, and wipe it off with a paper towel. The glue doesn't foam up in the open(at least Elmer's Probond doesn't) and really seals the covering line well.

Another trick I finally rediscovered- seal the covering edges by sliding the iron from the covering past the edge. If the edge is on a corner, roll the iron across the edge, like you are trying to squeeze something out from under the covering. Do it ALL along the seam.

Phil,
I assume you're talking about sealing the edges of the SLC covering on combat models?
Thanks for a good tip - but are my ships gonna survive long enough to suffer from peeling covering?
At my first and only combat contest (Detroit, Rouge Park, Fall 2002)I ended up in a mid-air with... Ronny Colombo (he's on the F2D team for 2004, right?). Then, during a practice match at the Skinners', I chewed up Dave Heinzman's plane. I don't know if you guys will want me at the combat circle altogether.

that is for any kind of film covering. None of them like to get fuel under the edges.

Another tip for poly glue:

Store the container upside down so the air is in the bottom if it skims over (and it will if you have it long enough) you can use whats left with no problems. I usually by it in a big bottle and transfer it to smaller containers. When I use the glue for woodworking I generally wipe one surface with a damp rag and apply glue to the other.