Sig sealer, how long to dry?

This is the first time I have used wood sealer. I mixed Sig sealer per instructions on can. It has been 4 days now and it is still a little tacky. He ply wood is also tacky. I do not want to paint until it is not tacky. Or can I.
Pleas advise.

Paul, something ain't right! Sounds like nitrate over butyrate syndrome, or something similar. There's lots of info to be had on what can and cannot be done in this area.Check out the archives here at SSW. Good luck,

LAST EDITED ON Feb-04-04 AT 10:08 PM (CDT)
 
Paul, paint compatability is a big issue with models. Using several different brands is generally asking for at least some hassles, if not disasters. How about giving us details of exactly what you put on your new model? If only SIG Sanding Sealer, did you thin it with something? What is the exact name of the SIG product? I'm wondering if you got Stix-It. It's stickum for films. Steve

LAST EDITED ON Feb-05-04 AT 02:32 AM (CDT)
 
Paul,

Can you tell us how the instructions said to mix the sealer? The only sealer I'm familiar with is their butyrate sealer which is basically clear dope with unscented talc added. The only mixing required is the addition of some thinner. It should be more than dry enough to sand in two hours max.

Might you have some sort of two part finishing resin?

OS

I used the wrong term. It was not sealer but Sig finishing resin.
I mixed it 1 ounce and 15 drops of hardner. Then mixed it 50/50 with denatured alcohol. It is mostly dry, but the hard wood and some of the glue joints are a little tacky. Not real bad, but just a tad.

Here is what I did....
"Coat all bare wood with finishing resin (Z-Poxy or SIG). I mix the finishing resin 50/50 with denatured alcohol and brush it on. After all the wood is covered and before it cures wipe as much as you can off with paper towels. This seals the wood and doesn't add a significant amount of weight. After the finishing resin is cured (overnight) sand with 320 just enough to knock the fuzz off."

I did not have to wipe any off with paper towels as it seem to soak up in the wood.

My question is where did the information in quotes come from?

I am not sure about the alcohol step you did. Here the question is what kind of alcohol did you use. The three common forms are methanol (the stuff in our fuel, also called wood alcohol), ethanol (the stuff some of us drink, also available in denatured (undrinkable) form--the version recommended in the quote), and isopropyl (also called rubbing alcohol). Isopropyl from the grocery store may contain ~30% water, so if you used that, that could be part of the problem.

I am not sure if all epoxies/ polyester resins are compatible with all alcohols.

I went to the local paint shop and asked for denatured alcohol. It seemed a little cloudy when I mixed it but it cleared up as I mixed. The only thing that just came to mind was the temp. It said to use it in 70 degrees. But we have not seen 70 degrees in some time.

Thanks
Paul

i use the same mix and i found if the temp is under 70 it wont set up i used it on a plane over the summer in an air condition room it never set up till i put it outside in the sun then it set quick i think if you get some heat on it it will set up.

Alan,

The quote came from my quick and dirty finishing instructions that have been posted here a couple of times. I have used all kinds of epoxy thinned with alcohol and not had a problem. Maybe I should revise the wording to make sure nobody tries this with polyester resin.

Paul,

Try hitting it with a blow dryer or heat gun to evaporate the alcohol and kick off the resin.

Paul,

What was the temp in the shop when you did this. When I've used any sort of finishing resin, I've had to insure that it was left in a warm, dry place to cure. When I've just left it in a cold shop, it will take forever to cure completely. Months sometimes.

Paul,
Your problem is that you have used polyester resin over epoxy. A big no no. You can use epoxy over polyester but not the other way around.

The epoxy I use on balsa such as half A solid wing/profiles and even Goodyear racers (all balsa) is called "20 Minute Finish-Cure Epoxy". The part of the title "finish-cure" is the clue. It is mixed one-to-one. It is not very thick, as is epoxy glue. It's about the viscosity of clear dope unthinned. Don't get discouraged by all this "new" stuff that's available now. I built a my first Goodyear racer anticipating that perfectly smooth epoxy finish the other guys had. You could see the fibreglass weave like looking through clear glass. So I laid the glass cloth on the wing, poured on a generous portion of FIVE minute epoxy and in five minutes I had the biggest mess I've ever seen! That plane is still around- they call it "Mr. Lumpy". It's tough when there's no one handy to show you how. It's even tough after you do know how! Best regards, ps- just had a thought- and that's usually dangerous- If one were not sure of a technique described on SSW, one could click on the little "private message" icon and have a direct dialog with the author of said technique.

Heat gun, I will give that a shot. Like I said it is not real tacky, I do not think paper would stick to it. I can feel it just a bit.
Maybe after a few coats of clear dope it will cover the tackyness.

Thanks
Paul

Paul,

Before you dope over that mixture, do your best to get it to set up to your satisfaction! Dope may not stick to it in its current condition and, even if it does, the resin may set under the dope at some warmer point in time and destroy your finish.

Roger that!

Thanks
Paul