Lead-outs on the Bell crank

I have just recently finished framing the wing on a Brodak Tanager and have gotten to the installation of the Bellcrank. I was wondering what is the preffered method of attaching the lead-outs to the crank? I have always used the sleeve and crimped it and then wrapped it with wire and soldered it. I remember in one of Windy's videos where he mentioned never soldering this. Anybody know why? I have done it for years with no problems as of yet. An interesting note on this kit as the Bellcrank supplied is no where near as large as the one depicted on the plans. I didn't use it and have put a 4" Sig crank instead.

Bill,
As far as I can tell, (or have been told ) soldering the leadouts causes damage to the wire ( through heat ) and can weaken them at this point...obviously not a good thing. Also the crimps create pivot point/hard points where the wires can bend and wear put over time....
The best solution, is to wrap the leadouts with copper wire and put epoxy glue over them to hold the wire instead of solder......hope ou remember to bush out the nylon bellcrank too.....

Never, but NEVER, run cable through a bellcrank without a sleeve of aluminum tubing over the wire. Choose the size of tubing that just fits the wire. You have to drill out the bellcrank holes.

Get some 26 ga. copper wire and do the AMA WRAP on all cables (and flying lines also). Never solder: use a bit of epoxy on the wrap. Soldering causes a stress point which will fail over time.

Dr Spark, I did bush the holes like you indicated to do. This is the first nylon Bellcrank I have ever used. Not used to one being so thick. By any chance did you ever get the private email I sent you?

American stainless steel wire (including the .027 leadout material) won't solder anyway.. But European wire can be soldered. On old British combat plans, they say to make leadouts out of heavyweight Laystrate, doubling it over so you have two thicknesses of wire where it goes through the leadout guides. And then you solder the end loops.

>American stainless steel wire (including the .027 leadout
>material) won't solder anyway.. But European wire can be
>soldered. On old British combat plans, they say to make
>leadouts out of heavyweight Laystrate, doubling it over so
>you have two thicknesses of wire where it goes through the
>leadout guides. And then you solder the end loops.

Yes, but that was with combat planes, where longivity is measured in minutes, not hundreds or thousands of flights. I would still caution the use of any stranded leadout wire on a belcrank that was not properly bushed if we are looking for long term survivability (and safety).