Laminating!

I'm strengthening the nose doublers on my model with CF tissue - what material is best for stopping epoxy sticking to bits I don't want it to - work surface and weights!

Wax Paper

Great - the missus has just go some 'hi tech' baking parchment - I wonder if that'll do?

'Her indoors' won't let me have any hitech baking parchment as it's £11 a foot - will clingfilm work?

Tony,
Can't say about the cling wrap (plastic wrap??), but waxed paper is pretty cheap here, and works fine.
Bill <><

The garden variety kitchen plastic wrap has worked fine for me. Safest way is always to just test it on a small sample.
DennisV

parchment will NOT work--clingwrap is fine, as is waxed paper.

Of the readily available, and cheap, materials I have found the clear backing for MonoKote is excellent. Even if one must suck up to some RC guy covering a 1/4-scale model.

>Of the readily available, and cheap, materials I have found
>the clear backing for MonoKote is excellent. Even if one
>must suck up to some RC guy covering a 1/4-scale model.
>
>Dan

Ron B.
F4Fguy

Amen!

Another is carrier sheet from a vinyl sign maker.even if you have to buy it,it's cheap,but ,if you're hanging around while they're making signs it's free(they don't reuse it).

I use cheap(about 1 dollar) plastic paint "dropcloth" from walmart, ain't found nothing that sticks to it permanently. It's a large piece, about 8' square maybe, lasts a long time. Is there something like Wal-Mart over there?

Melinex sheet - from your local GF supplier, I use it for all epoxy work ( wing pressing/doubler work )

Good flying

The first thing I did to my Cardinal fuse was two light coats of Coverite's balsa conditioner, BALSARITE. let dry overnight. Then a very light sanding. I then layed a piece of CF mat 0.2 on top and let the weight of my iron just start to stick the mat down. Then I moved it very slowly to stick the mat in place. I used a surgical blade to trim the excess. Then the same on the other side. Then I use Nitrite dope to fill in the grain, about 3 or 4 coats, Then finish off with butyrate dope sanding between all coats. Then I glued on the Doublers. This is one strong stiff fuse. I learned this from Scott Riese. I hope this helps.

>The first thing I did to my Cardinal fuse was two light
>coats of Coverite's balsa conditioner, BALSARITE. let dry
>overnight. Then a very light sanding. I then layed a piece
>of CF mat 0.2 on top and let the weight of my iron just
>start to stick the mat down. Then I moved it very slowly to
>stick the mat in place. I used a surgical blade to trim the
>excess. Then the same on the other side. Then I use Nitrite
>dope to fill in the grain, about 3 or 4 coats, Then finish
>off with butyrate dope sanding between all coats. Then I
>glued on the Doublers. This is one strong stiff fuse. I
>learned this from Scott Riese. I hope this helps.

Greg,

While it is an interesting technique, and no doubt works given the credentials of Scott Riese, I think it would have been an interesting exercise to actually weigh the fuselage at every step.

Because I'm betting that carefully applied "runny" epoxy would have been a superior material to the Balsarite at the very same amount of weight. Actually, even lighter is my guess, all the while giving better strength.