Leadout loops (hook up)

In my Brodak Cardinal i have a Windy bellcrank with leadout wires ready mounted. I am now going to finish making the final hook up's on the leadouts at the wingtip.
Anyone have a drawing of how to best do this?
Norvald

Wrap per AMA instructions. I think Tom Morris has instructions on his web site as well as the AMA CL rules site.

http://www.tomsbuildingservice.biz/pdf/Wrapping%20Lines.pdf

Cheers

Thx. I'll give this one a try
Norvald Olsvold

that's the way to do it alright.......you can also use an aneales brass tube bent into a closed U shape instead of the thimbles.....but wrap and epoxy....the only way to go

Why fight it? Tom sells bellcrank assemblies complete with bushed leadouts, cheap. Why should I spend time doing this when I can buy good assemblies cheap?

Well the story is that i purchased this Windy bellcrank before i 'discovered' the good mr. Tom Morris, from whom i am currently getting most of my control systems hardware.

In any case, the Windy bellcrank is very good, but the outer ends of the leadouts will have to be delivered straight an be finished after mounted in the model anyway (i suppose).
Norvald Olsvold

Yep, even Tom's leadouts are not finished at the line end. I supose if you knew the length before hand he would make up the ends but then how would you get them through the leadout guide.

LAST EDITED ON Feb-12-04 AT 05:49 PM (CDT)
 
I copied this idea from the Russians. Just bend the lead outs back to make a loop. "Thats it." Hook your control line cables on the loops and slide a short piece of fuel line hose over the hoop. I don't even use the fuel line hose any more centrifical force keeps the cables from coming off. If you are using .027 cable lead outs make a loop out of .045 steel wire and solder in on the end of your lead out cable. I use .045 copper plated steel welding wire for lead outs.

[photo not recovered: lines.jpg]

> If you are using .027 cable lead outs make a loop out
>of .035 steel wire and solder in on the end of your lead out
>cable.
>

>
>Gary Weaver [email protected]

Please let everyone know ahead of time if you decide to fly this combo...I hope I have misunderstood but I'de like to be far away just in case!

Curt

THe basic .035 weld wire set-up is fine I guess. Soldering loops into stranded cable ends is definitely not ok in my opinion.

Ron B.
F4Fguy

What Curt said,in spades!!

LAST EDITED ON Feb-12-04 AT 05:46 PM (CDT)
 
Thats the way the Russians do it. They place the solid wire loop next to the .027 cable then wrap it with about 50 turns of fine wire then solder it. It works great. I tried it and it works perfect for me but I decided to make life easier and went with a solid wire all the way to the bell crank just so I don't have to solder the 2 wire and cable together. I did a test and clamped the solid wire loop in the work shop vise then pulled on the control line cable until something broke. The .018 control line cable breaks first and the loop will not open even a little bit. This test was enough to convence we that it is safe and it works. Do a test yourself and see what you think. I wire wrap all my control line cables too. Bend 1.75" of the end back then wrap 3/4" of the cable with about 50 turns of #28 wire and solder it together. It makes a nice 1" loop.

Here is a pic. The airplane on the left is a Rusian made F2D Combat airplane with .035 cable the solid wire lead out is .040 steel wire. My airplane on the right is .045 solid steel welding wire.

[photo not recovered: lead-out.jpg]

The wrapping makes it much better--I had hoped there was more to it.

I'm a flexable leadout man myself....

I'll tell you something else, the worst job I ever did wrapping was better then my best crimping job.

I didn't realize how easy it was to wrap, now as I wrap my lead-out ends; I often reflect one the project I just completed.

Yes, I seen this on Russian combat model at our field. I don't think it is safe. We had a fun fly one time, and one of the guys flying his 100mph combat ship, slipped out of the line and almost hit someone.

In most Combat competition, they do this so that they can easily change models, and they flight out in the some remote area alway from spectators. If you flight in a club with a lot of people watching, I strongly suggest you change it.

combat models have a short life, I wonder if the wrap and solder job would hold up long term.

When I built my Banshee someone suggested I use .032 piano wire and bent it like I did in the photo. Has been holding up good allthough my father who has been using cable for 40 years does not trust this method so I only use solids on my small stuff.
Todd.

What really amazes me with this forum is the number of responses that each new tread generates.
I have been in the computer software business for some 35 years, but i am still impressed by all the info i can get.
Not to forget all the nice pictures available on the different sites.

Having spent a good deal of time in Russia, much of it in company with modelers, I can assure one and all that the line-end termination Gary cites is hardly universal.

And I never once saw that sort of lash-up on a CL Stunt model.

Some ideas are best avoided. This is one of them.

Well i did mine the way Tom Morris advice.
Left a good bit of extra wire just in case i have to redo it

Im really surprised that all 0f the pictures sofar posted show the leadouts being equal length. Usually leadouts need to be fairly close together and if you get your lines hungup on each other even once during a hard corner you will learn what puckerfactor is mighty quickly. The truth is that many of the flyers nowadays stagger their leadouts. Making one leadout 3 or 4 inches longer than the other assures that you dont get the dreaded "hang up". Keith V

> Im really surprised that all 0f the pictures sofar posted
>show the leadouts being equal length. Usually leadouts need
>to be fairly close together and if you get your lines hungup
>on each other even once during a hard corner you will learn
>what puckerfactor is mighty quickly. The truth is that many
>of the flyers nowadays stagger their leadouts. Making one
>leadout 3 or 4 inches longer than the other assures that you
>dont get the dreaded "hang up". Keith V

I don't know many top fliers who do this, Keith. Matter of fact, I can't think of any one who does this. Now, it may be OK to do it, I am not saying that. But, on the other hand, if you keep your leadouts separated by 3/4 inch or so and don't make your leadouts excessively long, there should be enough separation to keep things from catching. This also allows you to make equal length lines, rather than having to make one longer by the exact amount that your leadouts are one longer than the other.

Norvaldo: Ya "done good".

Gary Weaver: What Curt said, yet again. Just because it works does not mean that it is ok per AMA and AMA's insurance carrier, just in case you happen to be an AMA member (I kinda hope NOT). The rulebook shows the approved methods. The annealed tubing sleeve instead of the eyelet is ok. Any other is subject to some doubt. I hope you don't find out why other methods are not approved. Think about the potential consequences before you deviate from established and approved safety items. Steve

Staggered leadouts? This just might be a regional thing. Since I didnt invent the idea I must have learned it from my peers. I guess.Ive been told that east coast guys use mainly solid leadouts ans west coast guys use cable, SO regional habits may be a factor, anyway Im always eager to learn. Keith V

Someone posted some pictures from Huntsville AL contest I know for a fact one of those airplane has this type of lead out check the pic for the pale blue color airplane and look at the lead outs.

I am not good enough to fly in competition yet. If I ever get that good I won't fly competition anyway. After doing competition on go-karts, bicycling and other things, been there done that competition thing, not interested in any type competition ever again. Fun fly is all I am interested in. If its not fun then I'm not interested. When go-kart racing tuned onto work it wasn't fun any more. When bicycle racing tuned into work it wasn't fun any more. When other hobbies I had turned onto work they were not fun any more.

Fun is onne thing, Safe is another.

Staggering leadouts is something I've done routinely since a certain event at Delta Park in Portland back in 84. Almost lost my Stilleto due to the clips hanging up. I remember being shown staggered leadouts by a certain Mr. Walker. He uses them on all his models along with almost all the flyers in the Pacific Northwest.

Hi Leonard; re ;regionality of staggered leadouts' I just came back from having lunch with Chris Cox and Al Resinger, who have been using them for years,and they told me they learned to use them from Paul Walker. So thats why they are all over the north west. Keith V

LAST EDITED ON Feb-14-04 AT 06:31 PM (CDT)
 
How about fitting some kind of thin flexible stocking over the joint between the leadout and the line connection to cover the hook ups. Would be enough on just one of them...

Updated... A fuel tube fitted..maybe a little short..just a test

So, basically you just hook your handle up to your leadouts?

I'm ribbing you a little. I did the same thing years ago, funny to see someone else doing it.

Anyone ever realize their lead-outs twisting when control is applied?

I usually slip fuel tubing down the lead-out before wrapping. When I'm done I glue the wrapping and slip the fuel tubing over the wrapping. I use different colors to coordinate the up / down connections.

I do this because the tubing is nice and smooth with nothing to bind. I have noticed with just wrapping, the grooves can bind.

I use staggered length leadouts after a couple of hang-up experiences. I have seen a 60-size Russian (using the term generically) RTF stunt airplane with leadouts as Gary described. Never gave any problem that I know of. No, I won't make any that way! I have not liked the idea of using heatshrink tubing over the wrap, but I understand there is clear heatshrink which I might think OK.