Mr. Dirt (or Brett)

Dan,
I have a Flite Streak, an OS 25 FP, and a 9X4 APC prop.
I have a Chicken Hopper tank as suggested.
How do you mount, and at what level do you find, the tank to work best?
On engine C/L, or above/below?
I did not see this on the threads about the CoolThing Profile, maybe I missed it.
Thanks,
Bill <><

rubber band the tank on so you can shim it up or down. They usually end up about 1/8in. or so above the engine CL to get the lap times equal upright and inverted. Nothing really tricky. The OS 25's don't have the Fox burp, so the tank height isn't very critical.

>Dan,
>I have a Flite Streak, an OS 25 FP, and a 9X4 APC prop.
>I have a Chicken Hopper tank as suggested.
>How do you mount, and at what level do you find, the tank to
>work best?
>On engine C/L, or above/below?
>I did not see this on the threads about the CoolThing
>Profile, maybe I missed it.

That's "Pukey Profiles". I've never used a chicken hopper tank, but I don't think it matters much. Mine ended up about 1/8" above centerline. Just make it adjustable and adjust it until the laps times are the same upright and inverted.

Thanks guys! I do rubberband the tanks on with room for adjustment, just looking for the suggested starting point. Seems I will start about 1/8th high and see.
Bill <><

Bill,

On both my ARF Flite Streaks the GRW 3.25-ounce chicken hopper ended up very slightly *lower* than centered. It's only low by 1/16", so ya gotta be careful.

By the way, on a model like this, or one powered by a Fox 35, I do not pay much attention to lap times. The motor is initially set up by placing model in a rack to hold it, with noise being made I flip it upright and inverted while getting a reading on engine speed. This generally gets things pretty close, certainly close enough one needn't worry about going inverted only to see the fire go out.

While doing horizontal 8s I listen for changes in exhaust note, moving tank accordingly. The 20 and 25FPs are kinda neat in this regard as one can set 'em off pretty lean with a short load of fuel and just listen for a sag in rpm in outsides or insides. Kinda like riding a 125cc motocross bike; rev it until it slows down, then shift.

This practice doesn't seem to hurt the little buggers, assuming reasonable amounts of time on the sagging side of the equation. The stock mufflers make these things pretty quiet, so listening to the exhaust note, such as can be done with a Fox 35, is not the total answer. Sometimes...

Once tank height is set per above I will do the double-check for lap times inverted and upright even though the setting during maneuvers continues to take precedence.

Just a note: for profile tanks, I usually put small brackets on the top and bottom of the tank and use the trick little brass threaded inserts in the side of the fuselage. The brackets have a vertical slot. So, if the tank needs to be lowered, loosen the screws, lower it, tighten back up.A little foam bad behind the tank helps to keep the foaming down.

I doubt seriously that this is in anyway a new idea.

>Just a note: for profile tanks, I usually put small brackets
>on the top and bottom of the tank and use the trick little
>brass threaded inserts in the side of the fuselage. The
>brackets have a vertical slot. So, if the tank needs to be
>lowered, loosen the screws, lower it, tighten back up.A
>little foam bad behind the tank helps to keep the foaming
>down.
>
>I doubt seriously that this is in anyway a new idea.
>
>

Randy Powell

Randy,

A setup such as you suggest looks quite attractive.

However, once the tank is set vertically, ya gotta drag all that bracketry and stuff around. Plus breakage of various sorts is hardly an unknown.

The inserts in fuselage are a good idea, but install them above and below the tank. Now thread 4-40 rod (not all-thread, instead those partially-threaded pieces available in hobby shops) into the inserts, bend hooks in end, tie tank down with double-sided tape backed up with rubber bands. Or a loop of silicone fuel line, my preferred method.

Accurate adjustment is the next problem, and if one first cuts a shim to just fit between tank and threaded rods, makes appropriate changes to shim, reinstalls tank using shim as a guide it's accurate, easy and repeatable. Not to mention light and reliable.

Dan,

Hmm, I've never had a problem. I just make some tabs from so fairly heavy brass and solder them to the tank somewhere in the middle. Once the tank is set and the screws tightened down, I don't much mess with it again.

Do what DAN say's and you won't crash......MISTER

Scott(got a mean streak todayRiese;)

Scott,

>>Do what DAN say's and you won't crash......MISTER<<

I've done what Dan says for years and I've crashed plenty. Come to think of it, I've done what you've said and crashed plenty. Hmm, maybe I need to rethink this taking advice stuff.

Another look at tank mounting.

On a Streak or similar I use double back foam tape between the tank and fuselage and just put a couple of plastic wire ties around fuselage and tank. Simple adjustable, light and really doesn't look too bad. No hardware to speak of, the foam tape serves as a sorta shock mount and keeps the tank in place vertically, the wire ties just hold everything together.

I even have the plastic tank on the TwistMaster mounted this way except I used screw eyes above and below the tank to anchor the wire ties. Also wire ties do not self destruct like rubber bands do.