Nobler ARF UPDATE!

Let's start with a bit of history:

I've been modeling for 35+ years and currently fly RC sailplanes, RC pattern competitively and I'm starting CL after a 20 year hiatus. My only CL experience is with 1/2A stuff.

I've been in contact with Windy U (what a great asset to the modeling community!) who directed me to Bob Zambelli. I downloaded the now 36 page document on modifications needed to the plane to make it "better." I bounced this 36 page list of of Bob and here's what I found:

I have what must be the latest itteration since most of the items in the list have been corrected according to Bob. My Nobler has .032 braided leadouts, which attach to some sort of clip that is attached to the metal bellcrank. I'm sure there is a name for the clip but I don't know what it is yet. Bob said it would be fine but I could change it to a nylon 3-4" one if I wanted too. Since this is a trainer for me, I'll leave that as it is. He did recommend using the inner most hole on the bellcrank for the flap/elevator pushrod. He recommended putting a bit of white lithium grease on the clip/bellcrank junction for lubrication. Some preferred using a nylon bellcrank, but that was preferences. The metal one as it is set up in this version is OK as is. One more thing, the lead outs terminate in an eyelet. Apparently that's a good thing.

He told me to make sure I use a keeper on the clevises, which I do to my RC planes to assure the clevis doesn't come off in flight. One other thing that I've found is that if you use a metal clevis, always use a jamb nut on the threads. It's amazing the amount of slop this will remove from the system and it'll also stop vibration from ruining the threads on both the clevis and pushrod. I've seen the results of this vibration and it's not a pretty site!

My kit has a plastic tank that should work fine if set up properly. He mentioned the motor mounts on his being small, but mine were ~.310x.470"

I considered the alignment comments on this forum as a basic assembly function. Every facet of model aircraft need to be aligned correctly to fly correctly so this was a non-issue to me. I did like the mention of setting the wing without the flaps being installed. That'll save a bunch of heart ache.

While the above doesn't cover everything on the 36 page 'Punch list,' most everything mentioned appears to have been corrected by GP in their latest addition.

I'm not about to admit I know anything about CL planes, that's why I consult those who are "in the know" like Windy and Bob. Thanks to both of them and everyone who had/has an input on this subject and others on SS. gv

Nick V. and I have been discussing this subject further and he asked an important question; How do I know if my kit is the late version or not. Here's my response to him:

As far as telling what 'version,' there are no discerning #'s I can tell from the box since I have no idea what an old box has for markings. What I was referring to is it seems all of the items people complained about have been fixed. Here are some examples:

My lead outs have eyelets
My lead outs are braided .032 steel
My lead outs have a clip that they attach to instead of attaching directly to the bell crank
My kit has tip weight already installed in a box in the outboard wing (although the instructions still tell you to add 1 oz of lead)
My kit has a plastic clunk tank
My kit has larger engine bearers

I hope this helps someone out there. gv

This is all true for my kit also, except for the wing weight box. I didn't get one of those. You must have the "latest and greatest".
Rob Johnson
Orange,CA.

As far as a 'weight box' goes, you can see there is a square piece of hard (lite ply?) wood under the top sheeting, but it doesn't extend all the way to the bottom sheeting. However, if you pick the wing up from the center, you can tell there is a fair amount of weight in the wing, certainly more than only a 'wood weight' difference. gv

>My lead outs have a clip that they attach to instead of
>attaching directly to the bell crank
>My kit has tip weight already installed in a box in the
>outboard wing (although the instructions still tell you to
>add 1 oz of lead)

These two items have been true since the first production run, one of our club members lost his because the clip on the bellcrank broke. When I put together #2 I am going to replace the leadouts with solids just as with #1.

SNIP>>I've been in contact with Windy U (what a great asset to the modeling community!) who directed me to Bob Zambelli. I downloaded the now 36 page document on modifications needed to the plane to make it "better." I bounced this 36 page list of of Bob and here's what I found:

36 pages of updates for this plane?? If this is true will the Air Force continue the program?

Scott( can't be so)Riese

Bob, thanks for clarifying that for us. I was told those 2 things weren't on the original kit.

What is the advantage of solid wire over the braided? gv